Barber Half question for the more seasoned collectors
erwindoc
Posts: 5,287 ✭✭✭✭✭
How difficult is the set in grades of VG? The price guide I often use has most dates and mint marks at or just above melt values. Im sure that is not the case for problem free examples or is it? Not my series, but just curious.
0
Comments
Hope that helps.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
<< <i>Im well aware that the set gets quite difficult in grades of VF and better. Sounds relatively easy in VG. What do the experts say about the bump from VG to Fine? >>
The common dates not too much of an issue. Early mint-marked dates will cost you hundreds if you can find them. Why not start with a VG set and upgrade upon availability? There is always a market for the tough dates in VG.
<< <i>
<< <i>Im well aware that the set gets quite difficult in grades of VF and better. Sounds relatively easy in VG. What do the experts say about the bump from VG to Fine? >>
The common dates not too much of an issue. Early mint-marked dates will cost you hundreds if you can find them. Why not start with a VG set and upgrade upon availability? There is always a market for the tough dates in VG. >>
Ive got too many sets going right now to start another one. Fun to think about other projects. It would be nice to trade for a few though if anyone had some and was interested they could shoot me a PM
<< <i>Im well aware that the set gets quite difficult in grades of VF and better. Sounds relatively easy in VG based on the above responses. What do the experts say about the bump from VG to Fine? >>
A lot of the later dates you will find with relative ease in F. There are a few that just seem to be a pain to find, but in due time they become available. I find the 1890's a bit harder to find in problem free fine. Even the so called common early dates. A coin like the 93-S in fine is hard to come by and usually gets plenty of action if it has any eye appeal.
Look at the 1909-S Half on the most current last page Barber Mega Thread Part 2. Just as wholsome a coin as you'd want for the grade- remember all of the 09s from any mint have more LIBERTY detail, so that reverse is a tad soft for a Fine- but if you can make the set like that you're in fat city.
Enough of the halves exist in VG and Fine that are raw, for most dates, to where if you know how to look for quality and originality, you absolutely do not have to pay the premium for TPG examples. I've seen a $40 coin being sold for $80 and up, because it's been slabbed.
Most of the Denver and Philly coins can be had raw. I constantly see Knockout raw 07D's and 15S's for instance. Get up to speed on some of the common dates and learn what to look for.
Dates I hate to buy in VG and Fine are the 92 O & S, and the 13-14-15 P's, because they are so available and expensive. Some might argue that both 92's are really tough in Fine, but not relative to the price, I don't think. The window for those two is like 15 to 35, where they are really elusive.
Dates I love in Fine are the S-mints of 93, 95, 96, 97, 01, and the O-mints of 96, 97, 98, 01, 04 and 05. There are a few outliers, and that one coin that should be easy but just doesn't come your way, but mostly it's just a matter of knowing your material and being patient. You can search eBay every day and make notes for months before you buy a single coin and get a free education.
For a VG set, I would just buy coins with real meat on the bones with old leathery surfaces. A full set would actually impress even the most expert XF/AU people because they know what it takes to build a visually pleasing matched set of Barber Halves. I've never completed the set though have come close a few times. I dabble too much in key dates to be patient enough for the whole enchilada.
<< <i>I LOVE Fine in the halves. Even VG10 all matching in a Dansco is a sight to behold.
Look at the 1909-S Half on the most current last page Barber Mega Thread Part 2. Just as wholsome a coin as you'd want for the grade- remember all of the 09s from any mint have more LIBERTY detail, so that reverse is a tad soft for a Fine- but if you can make the set like that you're in fat city.
Enough of the halves exist in VG and Fine that are raw, for most dates, to where if you know how to look for quality and originality, you absolutely do not have to pay the premium for TPG examples. I've seen a $40 coin being sold for $80 and up, because it's been slabbed.
Most of the Denver and Philly coins can be had raw. I constantly see Knockout raw 07D's and 15S's for instance. Get up to speed on some of the common dates and learn what to look for.
Dates I hate to buy in VG and Fine are the 92 O & S, and the 13-14-15 P's, because they are so available and expensive. Some might argue that both 92's are really tough in Fine, but not relative to the price, I don't think. The window for those two is like 15 to 35, where they are really elusive.
Dates I love in Fine are the S-mints of 93, 95, 96, 97, 01, and the O-mints of 96, 97, 98, 01, 04 and 05. There are a few outliers, and that one coin that should be easy but just doesn't come your way, but mostly it's just a matter of knowing your material and being patient. You can search eBay every day and make notes for months before you buy a single coin and get a free education.
For a VG set, I would just buy coins with real meat on the bones with old leathery surfaces. A full set would actually impress even the most expert XF/AU people because they know what it takes to build a visually pleasing matched set of Barber Halves. I've never completed the set though have come close a few times. I dabble too much in key dates to be patient enough for the whole enchilada. >>
A lot of great advice in here. One of the reasons I will take forever to finish my G/VG set is because of the 92O,S. I just don't think they are worth the premium in that grade.
Dogwood - you love all the grades !!
and so do I as a matter of fact.
A set in VG 10 - thru Fine 15 really is an
attractive set - easily obtainable - and won't
break the bank - even the 04-S is reasonable
to a certain extent. The Micro O is the only
stopper.
I assembled my first set in VG 10- F-15 while in
college in the late 1960's - and it was a fun adventure.
The only stumbling block was the 1896-O ... it took me
years to locate one I liked. [ All pre Internet ].
I have not forgotten you - I have a brutal cold -
so - will respond later to your questions. Promise !
~~~~~~~~~~~~
Coin collecting is not a hobby, it's an obsession !
New Barber Purchases
Still, by being picky for rim quality and original surfaces, it could take awhile. Worth it for the final pleasing result.
If I bought on the internet it probably would speed the process up quite a bit, but I have been doing it looking at shows.....
Been putting quarters and halves together.....
I only need 3 dates post 1900.
I find it a challenge to find non cleaned coins without rim dings, with nice full rims on the reverse.....
It is fun to look around at a show but alot of patients of required..... I started the quarters because the halves were becoming difficult to find.....
<< <i>A lot of great advice in here. One of the reasons I will take forever to finish my G/VG set is because of the 92O,S. I just don't think they are worth the premium in that grade. >>
These dates are often seen in AG and G and to a slightly lesser extent VG. My take on this statement is many of these coins at this level are cleaned, scratched, stained, nicked, bent or have graffiti or other problems. 95% of the time, the seller is asking for problem free money for problem coins, or a miniscule discount and in that case they are not worth it (the typical $200-$350 price tag).
When one of these coins is available and is problem free, which is very seldom, those are the coins that are worth the money as publicized. I say publicized because collectors are aware that price guides, grey sheet, et al are not usually applicable to this series, like many other series, as problem free specimens with eye appeal often sell for multiples of published prices. As can be attested at any auction, very strong prices are usually the norm for semi key and key date coins with top end eye appeal. If they are problem free coins with eye appeal in a reputable TPG holder, you can expect to pony up for these early branch mint dates. And if they are in our host's holder, time to get out the checkbook or a HELOC. With considerable patience and some luck, you can in time find them raw at reasonable money.
Of the 4 branch mint early dates, 92-O and S and 93-O and S; I would say the most difficult of them is the 93-S followed by the 92-S followed by the 93-O then the 92-O. Although the 92-O has the lowest mintage of them all, it seems to be more readily available than the other 3 dates. The 93-S and 92-S have always been very difficult coins for me to find problem free with any kind of decent eye appeal.
Good luck with your set.
<< <i>
Of the 4 branch mint early dates, 92-O and S and 93-O and S; I would say the most difficult of them is the 93-S followed by the 92-S followed by the 93-O then the 92-O. Although the 92-O has the lowest mintage of them all, it seems to be more readily available than the other 3 dates. The 93-S and 92-S have always been very difficult coins for me to find problem free with any kind of decent eye appeal. >>
Finding these in G/VG with full rim reverses can be difficult, so if you come across them they are worth a premium.
I'll say P, S, S, S.
That is exactly what we're talking about.
60 years into this hobby and I'm still working on my Lincoln set!