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Coin photo - I found the difference between raw and slabbed is huge.
seateddime
Posts: 6,180 ✭✭✭
I spent nearly 6 hours with multiple lens and found it is really make a HUGE difference if you are shooting raw coins over one in slabs. I had a friend drop off 4 lens for me to play with.
I can say for sure lighting and a copy stand are a must.
To get a great shot of a coin in a slab requires a really short lens and lots of megapixels.
I guess shooting small coins does not help either, that said - I am not ready to post any pictures.
I can say for sure lighting and a copy stand are a must.
To get a great shot of a coin in a slab requires a really short lens and lots of megapixels.
I guess shooting small coins does not help either, that said - I am not ready to post any pictures.
I seldom check PM's but do check emails often jason@seated.org
Buying top quality Seated Dimes in Gem BU and Proof.
Buying great coins - monster eye appeal only.
Buying top quality Seated Dimes in Gem BU and Proof.
Buying great coins - monster eye appeal only.
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Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
Not sure if I agree with this at all depending on your defintion of short lens:
<< <i>To get a great shot of a coin in a slab requires a really short lens and lots of megapixels.
>>
<< <i>We need pics!
Not sure if I agree with this at all depending on your defintion of short lens:
<< <i>To get a great shot of a coin in a slab requires a really short lens and lots of megapixels.
>>
>>
True. Depending upon what a short lens is. Lots of megapixels is not needed, either.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
55mm
105 mm marco
here are some "works in progress"
I love this coin because it is small, detailed and lots of color.
Buying top quality Seated Dimes in Gem BU and Proof.
Buying great coins - monster eye appeal only.
<< <i>Generally true, not plastic makes for hurdles but it really depends on the photographer. I have TrueViews and then I have mark Goodman views and both are of the hgihest quality imho. So in the end you are absolutely wrong. >>
I would expect nothing other than a negative response to whatever I write. You are if nothing consistent.
Buying top quality Seated Dimes in Gem BU and Proof.
Buying great coins - monster eye appeal only.
Get lots more vertical light on that coin.
Lance.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
<< <i>The only lens you mentioned that I would use is the 105mm macro. The others are too short to get adequate working distance to allow you to light your subject properly. >>
I agree with you. So far the best results. The angle on the lighting is very key.
As I learn ( and have been for years) I hope to share/help/be helped by others.
Buying top quality Seated Dimes in Gem BU and Proof.
Buying great coins - monster eye appeal only.
Stick with the 105 the results should be much, much better.
<< <i>The only lens you mentioned that I would use is the 105mm macro >>
<< <i>I don't feel challenged by slabs, and I don't think there's a huge disadvantage other than the obvious (scratched plastic, obscured edges) >>
<< <i>Generally true, not plastic makes for hurdles but it really depends on the photographer. >>
<< <i>Over time, aside from dealing with scratches, plastic becomes irrelavent. >>
this this this and this
.
i can honestly say 99% of the time i do not image my raw coins any different than the few in slabs that i image. the small variable for me is for toned coins, then i have to change some angles.
just like for driving, my lights are virtually fixed at k10 and k2.
.
Longer lenses will always have better lighting available than shorter ones.