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Numismatic photography stand suggestions?

As many others before me have done, I am taking the plunge into amateur numismatic photography. It gives me just one more way to enjoy my collection and explore a new dimension of the hobby.
I've thoroughly read Mark Goodman's book on the subject, and I welcome other suggestions to add to my library. If it matters, my collection is primarily Morgan toners as well as a variety of gold.
At this point, I have a high quality camera and macro lens. My next step is finding a proper macro stand with lights. This one looks like it has a lot of potential. There is also a slightly smaller version for slightly less. I was wondering if anyone else perhaps owned either of these, or had suggestions on alternatives.
Thanks!
I've thoroughly read Mark Goodman's book on the subject, and I welcome other suggestions to add to my library. If it matters, my collection is primarily Morgan toners as well as a variety of gold.
At this point, I have a high quality camera and macro lens. My next step is finding a proper macro stand with lights. This one looks like it has a lot of potential. There is also a slightly smaller version for slightly less. I was wondering if anyone else perhaps owned either of these, or had suggestions on alternatives.
Thanks!
I like large size currency and silver dollars.
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You can buy desk lamps at WalMart for around $10 each. Another forum member was kind enough to suggest that the lamps that come with those stands are a waste.
I'll be looking for a little better camera one of these days.
You can get the exact same thing on eBay for a whole lot less $$. They're OK for the money and will probably last a good long while. Mine came with two lamps. The base and stand are better quality than the lamp setups. The unit is typical of mass-produced Chinese stuff - good but not exceptional.
Edited to add:
This is the one I have, an excelent stand but the fixed lighting positions are not the greatest.
Kaiser
My Collection of Old Holders
Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
Almost ruined my Nikon as the attachment screw was miss threaded, stand was very unsteady with a camera mounted, and because of the angled arm very top heavy when camera and 105 lens are working at near the top.
May be better for a smaller camera but working with Morgans your going to working near the max on it most of the time..
<< <i>Depending upon the focal length of your macro lens, a 23 inch high stand may not be enough for big coins. >>
+1 - and/or groups and/or just larger items
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<< <i>I bought one of the linked stands and found it to be very poorly made all I kept from the set is the lights and arms.
Almost ruined my Nikon as the attachment screw was miss threaded, stand was very unsteady with a camera mounted, and because of the angled arm very top heavy when camera and 105 lens are working at near the top.
May be better for a smaller camera but working with Morgans your going to working near the max on it most of the time..
Hmm, I have a rather hefty DSLR so that is a concern. You say you kept the lights and stand - what did you eventually use as a camera mount?
I'm reading everyone's input on this.
Bajjerfan, I plan on using a delayed shutter, so I won't be touching the setup when the shot is taken - perfect stability of the stand is not a necessity. Still, I want something I can move about and use without worrying that it will fall apart. Do you find you have any issues with getting the right lighting angles and height with a cheap desk lamp?
Bryce, so you liked the stand - what kind of camera are you using? LindeDad has a heavy camera just as I do, and he doesn't sound very happy with it.
<< <i>I have this which I use on my tripod and it works great. >>
Ahh, I like this, as I already have a large tripod.
take outside if I need to use daylight. Simple, cheap and works well.
bob
<< <i>
<< <i>I have this which I use on my tripod and it works great. >>
Ahh, I like this, as I already have a large tripod. >>
i may have to switch out to a tripod with this accessory to expand the amount of large items I can image. thanks
BTW Photbucket just changed totally.
As you can see I kept the light arms and put PAR 75 Halogen spots in them and then have the fixed duel 300w Halogen floods to the side.
Cameraq is a Nikon D90 and when I put on that old Nikon Nikor glass lens 105mm it gets heavy.
That height is fixed and set to full frame a silver dollar as shown. Also note that I had the floods on the low setting.
One of my Morgan shots with the set up above.
<< <i>
<< <i>I bought one of the linked stands and found it to be very poorly made all I kept from the set is the lights and arms.
Almost ruined my Nikon as the attachment screw was miss threaded, stand was very unsteady with a camera mounted, and because of the angled arm very top heavy when camera and 105 lens are working at near the top.
May be better for a smaller camera but working with Morgans your going to working near the max on it most of the time..
Hmm, I have a rather hefty DSLR so that is a concern. You say you kept the lights and stand - what did you eventually use as a camera mount?
I'm reading everyone's input on this.
Bajjerfan, I plan on using a delayed shutter, so I won't be touching the setup when the shot is taken - perfect stability of the stand is not a necessity. Still, I want something I can move about and use without worrying that it will fall apart. Do you find you have any issues with getting the right lighting angles and height with a cheap desk lamp?
Bryce, so you liked the stand - what kind of camera are you using? LindeDad has a heavy camera just as I do, and he doesn't sound very happy with it. >>
I took this one using the cheap desk lamps that are maybe 10 inches above the coin. The camera was about 8 inches from the coin. The fonts on the slab aren't sharp tho.
My results aren't quite so hot with a white Morgan under the same conditions.
Is it necessary to have your lights the same height as or higher than the camera? Can anyone recommend a moderately priced camera that is set up for a remote shutter? I have now a coolpix S560. I see Sam's Club has coolpix L610 for about $200. It has an electronc shutter but I'm not sure if it is manual operation or not.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
<< <i>The two you have linked look like thay can do the job but I could not find any reference to the wattage that the lights can handle. If you've read Mark's book you know that he uses very high wattage lighting so that may be something to consider before you purchase.
Edited to add:
This is the one I have, an excelent stand but the fixed lighting positions are not the greatest.
Kaiser >>
I have the same stand coinbuf. I can take decent pix, but not great pix. I'm having challenges with the lighting. And the Repro Kid copy stand doesn't allow you to change the angle that much, its pretty rigid in that regard.
I think I have about 6 different light bulbs and this is my typical result (not bad, but definitely not nearly the quality I've seen posted on these boards):
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BONGO HURTLES ALONG THE RAIN SODDEN HIGHWAY OF LIFE ON UNDERINFLATED BALD RETREAD TIRES
http://macrocoins.com
<< <i>LindeDad, what is that you have in front of the halogen floods? >>
They were originally mounts for diffusers but work also as burn guards as those lights get real hot. Much of what is seen here is used professional equipment that I picked up on eBay.
This photo is the setup before I got the macro lens. With it, I have to run the camera all the way to the top to take a whole-slab shot.
I use 90W halogens in the lights which is enough to melt the plastic slab inserts if you're not careful.
At a f/6.5 apperature, my shutter speeds are between 1/200 for dark toners to 1/2,000 for bright reflective coins.
FYI, I went back and looked, and I actually spent about the same as the Amazon add you linked. I was remembering the price for the stand without the lights.
<< <i>
<< <i>The two you have linked look like thay can do the job but I could not find any reference to the wattage that the lights can handle. If you've read Mark's book you know that he uses very high wattage lighting so that may be something to consider before you purchase.
Edited to add:
This is the one I have, an excelent stand but the fixed lighting positions are not the greatest.
Kaiser >>
I have the same stand coinbuf. I can take decent pix, but not great pix. I'm having challenges with the lighting. And the Repro Kid copy stand doesn't allow you to change the angle that much, its pretty rigid in that regard.
I think I have about 6 different light bulbs and this is my typical result (not bad, but definitely not nearly the quality I've seen posted on these boards):
Yep thats just about the same type of shot that I get, the limited movement of the lighting really limits the quality, however I'm only using a cheap point and shoot camera not the high end SLR's and macros that everyone else on this thread is. Thats one of the reasons if I want a real nic pic I send my coins to Mark Goodman.
My Collection of Old Holders
Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
Lindedad, I can see how the Amazon item might seem like a downgrade after the setup you had! Thank you for sharing that.
AUAg, nice one. Simple and inexpensive.
One concern I have is keeping the lens as parallel as possible to the coin. In his book, Goodman talks about this - he even talks about propping up the edge of a coin slab with a dislodged or crooked coin just to get everything precisely aligned for optimal results. As this relates to the camera stand, something that is sturdy and straight (or adjustable) is obviously key - the last thing I want to do is start with a crooked camera mount.
Bryce, your setup image has me leaning in that direction at this point. It looks very simple to manage.
rmps, I will check into that.
Dieclash, are you saying you use 6 lights for one shot?
and a pic taken with it
Here's a similar stand with the MZ7 mount, with Nikon camera and 105VR lens:
http://macrocoins.com
<< <i>One concern I have is keeping the lens as parallel as possible to the coin. In his book, Goodman talks about this - he even talks about propping up the edge of a coin slab with a dislodged or crooked coin just to get everything precisely aligned for optimal results. As this relates to the camera stand, something that is sturdy and straight (or adjustable) is obviously key - the last thing I want to do is start with a crooked camera mount. >>
Since you mentioned tripod, what kind do you have? Mine is Polaroid and it has 3 bubble levels in it. Once I get that squared I use a torpedo on the boom and level that off. But it is definitely not professional grade, and the cost is commensurate.
And LindeDad, that setup is awesome!
Focus on the coin, then put a mirror there and stop-down the lens. Look through the viewfinder or Live View, and adjust the camera / tripod / stand until you are looking right at the center of the lens. Most accurate method you can use, and no need for anything to be absolutely level.
http://macrocoins.com
<< <i>I've used a couple setups with lights attached to the stand. I don't like them. Desk lamps that can be freely moved and posed are much more versatile. >>
+1 - mine are fixed but John is right. the flexibility of moving the lights at will beats the crap out of static positioning and i do detach mine from time to time for those just special coins
.
Empty Nest Collection
<< <i>Can anyone recommend a suitable camera in the $300-$400 range with remote shutter control and the ability to add a macro lens some time in the future? I'll be pretty much dedicating it to taking coin pics. >>
I've become very fond of the Canon XS. It is Canon's first consumer grade camera with Live View and EFSC (Electronic First Shutter Curtain) so can tether to your PC for camera control, previewing, and automatic download to editing software. It is "only" 10MP but I don't find that much of a limitation. I have the T2i as well and trade off between them. The T2i is 18MP, but in reality there is not that much difference. For web publishing of images, I like to down-size to 800x800, and on the T2i this is a small crop plus 4x downsize, while on the XS it is a small crop plus 3x downsize. Not much difference. You can pick up a used XS on eBay for perhaps $200-$250 for body only, so you're well within your target budget.
http://macrocoins.com
It stores smaller, and I also use it for other photographic endeavors (wildlife, sports, etc.).
<< <i>...
Dieclash, are you saying you use 6 lights for one shot? >>
To clarify, I have 6 different sets of bulbs. I only use 2 at a time with the Kid Repro stand.
-Kirk
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BONGO HURTLES ALONG THE RAIN SODDEN HIGHWAY OF LIFE ON UNDERINFLATED BALD RETREAD TIRES
And a recent example of a proof set.
Recipient of the coveted "You Suck" award, April 2009 for cherrypicking a 1833 CBHD LM-5, and April 2022 for a 1835 LM-12, and again in Aug 2012 for picking off a 1952 FS-902.