It sure is tough, I started a similar thread a few months back. Is the coin in a holder or raw? If raw, you have more options as far as direct light, since it won't reflect off of the plastic holder.
I'd polish the scratches off the front of that slab before I spent any more effort on photographs.
I'm not a great photographer by any means; however, I have photographed many proofs. Franklin halves are the easiest proofs to photograph in my experience.
It is slabbed, I did set the white balance manually, (yes still a bit yellow), and yes, it does need a Plastix treatment. I was taking other pictures and tried messing with this half while I had everything set up. Just wanted to post a nice coin (and vent a little!)
I'm not sure if most professionals would agree with what I do but my set up is rather simple and for proofs and some MS coins I take a plain sheet of white paper and hold it between the light source and camera.
Below I just turned my desk lights above on and did not use my lights on either side......just as a quick shoot and example
Below are examples of direct shooting and then with a piece of white paper between the light source and camera. You may need to adjust the amount of light that comes through the lens, other than that I just crop and do a very basic image adjustment such as light and color balance.
. don't you photographiles forget that imaging is only 90%. There is an extra 10% that can be done to assist images to be accurate with simple editing. it took 30 seconds to fix the OP images. :-)
Good job, a little yellow at least from here. Lance is correct, the post editing process is just as important as taking the pic. Trial n error can't be taught. Keep on shooting, Scott
<< <i>Thanks guys, I'll take your advice and tinker with it tomorrow. >>
there are very useful walkthroughs in the forum archives. sometimes we made enough posts about image taking/editing to go several pages long worth of posts.
the forum archives are the de facto Numismatic Britannica imo .
<< <i>It is slabbed, I did set the white balance manually, (yes still a bit yellow), and yes, it does need a Plastix treatment. I was taking other pictures and tried messing with this half while I had everything set up. Just wanted to post a nice coin (and vent a little!) >>
The detail is great. Did you try setting the white balance with a gray card?
“When the people find that they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic.” — Benjamin Franklin
My icon IS my coin. It is a gem 1949 FBL Franklin.
<< <i>It is slabbed, I did set the white balance manually, (yes still a bit yellow), and yes, it does need a Plastix treatment. I was taking other pictures and tried messing with this half while I had everything set up. Just wanted to post a nice coin (and vent a little!) >>
The detail is great. Did you try setting the white balance with a gray card? >>
The base of my copy stand is very close to the 15% grey that was recommended to me. I'm still getting a tinge of yellow, but I'm in the middle of tinkering with the pics. I'm also trying the white paper method that coinsarefun mentioned. The paper does take some of the harshness out. I have an hour before the Bears start so I have to get to work!
General rule of thumb: The flashier the coin, the more diffuse you want the light. Stefanie's example is a good one. Lighting the coin through a piece of paper diffuses the light a lot and cuts down on the hot spots. Bouncing the light off the paper would diffuse it even more.
<< <i>General rule of thumb: The flashier the coin, the more diffuse you want the light. Stefanie's example is a good one. Lighting the coin through a piece of paper diffuses the light a lot and cuts down on the hot spots. Bouncing the light off the paper would diffuse it even more. >>
Thanks, I did that with my last batch and it seems to have helped in solving my 'too much yellow' problem.
Different coin but I'm getting better shots diffusing the light.
Comments
I'm not a great photographer by any means; however, I have photographed many proofs. Franklin halves are the easiest proofs to photograph in my experience.
U.S. Type Set
Nice coin!
JH
Proof Buffalo Registry Set
Capped Bust Quarters Registry Set
Proof Walking Liberty Halves Registry Set
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
I take a plain sheet of white paper and hold it between the light source and camera.
Below I just turned my desk lights above on and did not use my lights on either side......just as a quick shoot and example
Below are examples of direct shooting and then with a piece of white paper between the light source and camera.
You may need to adjust the amount of light that comes through the lens, other than that I just crop and do a very basic image adjustment such as light and color balance.
Hope this helps
.
CoinsAreFun Toned Silver Eagle Proof Album
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Gallery Mint Museum, Ron Landis& Joe Rust, The beginnings of the Golden Dollar
.
More CoinsAreFun Pictorials NGC
don't you photographiles forget that imaging is only 90%. There is an extra 10% that can be done to assist images to be accurate with simple editing. it took 30 seconds to fix the OP images. :-)
Lance is correct, the post editing process is just as important as taking the pic.
Trial n error can't be taught. Keep on shooting,
Scott
<< <i>Thanks guys, I'll take your advice and tinker with it tomorrow. >>
there are very useful walkthroughs in the forum archives. sometimes we made enough posts about image taking/editing to go several pages long worth of posts.
the forum archives are the de facto Numismatic Britannica imo
.
<< <i>It is slabbed, I did set the white balance manually, (yes still a bit yellow), and yes, it does need a Plastix treatment. I was taking other pictures and tried messing with this half while I had everything set up. Just wanted to post a nice coin (and vent a little!) >>
The detail is great. Did you try setting the white balance with a gray card?
My icon IS my coin. It is a gem 1949 FBL Franklin.
<< <i>
<< <i>It is slabbed, I did set the white balance manually, (yes still a bit yellow), and yes, it does need a Plastix treatment. I was taking other pictures and tried messing with this half while I had everything set up. Just wanted to post a nice coin (and vent a little!) >>
The detail is great. Did you try setting the white balance with a gray card? >>
The base of my copy stand is very close to the 15% grey that was recommended to me. I'm still getting a tinge of yellow, but I'm in the middle of tinkering with the pics. I'm also trying the white paper method that coinsarefun mentioned. The paper does take some of the harshness out. I have an hour before the Bears start so I have to get to work!
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
<< <i>General rule of thumb: The flashier the coin, the more diffuse you want the light. Stefanie's example is a good one. Lighting the coin through a piece of paper diffuses the light a lot and cuts down on the hot spots. Bouncing the light off the paper would diffuse it even more. >>
Thanks, I did that with my last batch and it seems to have helped in solving my 'too much yellow' problem.
Different coin but I'm getting better shots diffusing the light.
.
CoinsAreFun Toned Silver Eagle Proof Album
.
Gallery Mint Museum, Ron Landis& Joe Rust, The beginnings of the Golden Dollar
.
More CoinsAreFun Pictorials NGC