Don't forget for the grades it's business days, so I'd guess the 24, 25th...Then there's the Holiday...I've got a submission in as well on Modern, rec'd the 1st...nothing yet...
<< <i>Don't forget for the grades it's business days, so I'd guess the 24, 25th...Then there's the Holiday...I've got a submission in as well on Modern, rec'd the 1st...nothing yet... >>
And there's also the Long Beach show at the end of the month... might not get your grades until early June.
Yeah, trust me I'm getting just as inpatient. I wouldn't even expect them any earlier then the 19th and thats just wishful thinking cause thats even before the 15 business days and right now statistics page says 16 business days for regular submissions.
Fall 2026 National Battlefield Coin Show September 11 & 12, 2026 at the Eisenhower Hotel Ballroom, Gettysburg, PA. Early Bird passes Thursday September 10, 2026 from Noon to 5pm $25 each. WWW.AmericasCoinShows.com
Nope, checking every few hours now though. I'm kinda a impatient person though, should be any day now but today is the 13th business day and well could be longer then 15 days I hear.
<< <i>Nope, checking every few hours now though. I'm kinda a impatient person though, should be any day now but today is the 13th business day and well could be longer then 15 days I hear. >>
Better than I expected. I hope that this works out for you. I do not think that dipping would help. Toning that dark leaves hazy impaired mirrors when dipped off. At least with the toning, you still have a matched set. After a dip, all you have is a group of random coins, and the gennies will probably stay that way (ungradeable).
<< <i>I think one way or another you are going to learn a valuable lesson... >>
I do hope that you take this to heart >>
No not really, Its still nice set of coins and I know I could just as well crack the whole set and sell it for as much as I paid including my grading fees.
Edited to add I just got of the phone and am having the coins brought back down as I feel its a shame to have to dip off original toning just to get a grade on a matched set.
Shouldn't a proof be attributed with "PRF details" in a genuine holder instead of UNC details , so as to avoid confusion about the coin being a proof ?
Maybe that's a dumb question. Forgive my ignorance.
i find a lil surprise in that some of the silver ran into problems versus the copper pieces copper usually runs into problems first
i wonder if cracked out and sent in how many gennies would become made coins even to add if repeated how many trips before all are resting in graded holders without dipping at all
everything in life is but merely on loan to us by our appreciation....lose your appreciation and see
<< <i>i find a lil surprise in that some of the silver ran into problems versus the copper pieces copper usually runs into problems first
i wonder if cracked out and sent in how many gennies would become made coins even to add if repeated how many trips before all are resting in graded holders without dipping at all >>
I know it was because of the dark toning they came back gennied, thats why I called. Why should I have to destroy original toning, I mean these coins had no hairlines at all. I think the original surfaces should of been rewarded.
<< <i>Shouldn't a proof be attributed with "PRF details" in a genuine holder instead of UNC details , so as to avoid confusion about the coin being a proof ?
Maybe that's a dumb question. Forgive my ignorance. >>
nope...no forgiveness for you...sentence...doing the dishes and cleaning up the doggy doo for a week with no gloves...and you have to use a special oylmpics commemorative for your desktop background...
everything in life is but merely on loan to us by our appreciation....lose your appreciation and see
<< <i>Shouldn't a proof be attributed with "PRF details" in a genuine holder instead of UNC details , so as to avoid confusion about the coin being a proof ?
Maybe that's a dumb question. Forgive my ignorance. >>
The holder will say proof, but below that it says unc details w/ what ever the reason
Toning is not regarded to be "Environmental Damage" so you need to show these coins to an experienced collector to determine whether your coins have corrosion or PVC or some other issue that caused them to be returned as such by PCGS. DIpping the coins will not resolve the problem
<< <i>Toning is not regarded to be "Environmental Damage" so you need to show these coins to an experienced collector to determine whether your coins have corrosion or PVC or some other issue that caused them to be returned as such by PCGS. DIpping the coins will not resolve the problem >>
Actually if you read the grading standards of PCGS Excessive toning is a reason for a getting a code 97 (environmental damage). PVC will not be holder due to the nature of instability of it and no corrosion on the coins.
Did PCGS specifically state that the coins received a 97 code because they were too darkly toned? That seems quite odd, since the TPGs love darkly toned Seated coinage and the images of the coins do not make them appear to be that dark. The code 97 would also include damage from pitting, corrosion, lacquer removal or a host of other surface problems.
<< <i>Did PCGS specifically state that the coins received a 97 code because they were too darkly toned? That seems quite odd, since the TPGs love darkly toned Seated coinage and the images of the coins do not make them appear to be that dark. The code 97 would also include damage from pitting, corrosion, lacquer removal or a host of other surface problems. >>
No, but having the coins in hand some of the toning was excessively dark around devices and in general darker then any other NT coins I have owned and I seen no other surface issues and being these four where the darkest and excessive toning listed as one of the reason to 97 on PCGS grading standards I see no other reason why. The funny thing is the Shield nickel had that stain, something green on it, and hazy, but it grades the highest. I did clean off the green spot but otherwise it was the same and had a break in the lines in the shield ( damaged design) probably from something hitting it.
Edited to add I did wonder originally if the toning would cause a 97 after noticing the excessive toning part, but wrote it off thinking the same thing you stated above Tom. My local dealer had told me about having a similar problem once with originally toned coins coming back 97 way before I even seen this set.
If the toning is so dark that the mirrors cannot be seen on parts of the coin, that's a potential problem. It would be no different on a mint state coin where luster cannot be observed over a dark patch. But in my experience the grade gets lowered accordingly far more often than assigning a BB.
<< <i>If the toning is so dark that the mirrors cannot be seen on parts of the coin, that's a potential problem. It would be no different on a mint state coin where luster cannot be observed over a dark patch. But in my experience the grade gets lowered accordingly far more often than assigning a BB. >>
What about where its black around the devices? It was like a black outlining around the devices on these coins, except the 3cS. That one was still real dark but no pitting or corrosion. Also the toning was not burning into the surface.
Edited to add the PCGS grading standards for code 97 for their website
Environmental Damage. Coins that are damaged because of improper storage may be rejected. Corrosion is caused by storage in areas of high humidity, sea salvage coins, and coins found in the ground. Toning that is excessively dark or heavy, or which burns into the surface of the coin, may be rejected.
This is why I called, I really don't feel I should have to dip my coins just to get a grade. The toning was black sure, but it was original and being what the coins are I don't want to mess with them unless I feel its detrimental to the coins surfaces (i.e. removing the unknown green spot on my shield nickel)
Black around the devices that isn't simply dark toning can earn a coin a code 97 very quickly. In my experience, this type of schmutz isn't so much toning as it is some type of crud that has gotten onto the surfaces and damaged the underlying metal. Again, I have not seen the coins in-hand and am only going by what you have shared as well as my own experience.
<< <i>Black around the devices that isn't simply dark toning can earn a coin a code 97 very quickly. In my experience, this type of schmutz isn't so much toning as it is some type of crud that has gotten onto the surfaces and damaged the underlying metal. Again, I have not seen the coins in-hand and am only going by what you have shared as well as my own experience. >>
Well Tom, when I get them back I was thinking of having you image them anyway. So If you want to, you will get to see them in hand as well. The black is toning and now I just have to wait another week hopefully for them to go back to the grading room. After that I will either be happy or probably crack them out and send them ATS.
<< <i>i find a lil surprise in that some of the silver ran into problems versus the copper pieces copper usually runs into problems first
i wonder if cracked out and sent in how many gennies would become made coins even to add if repeated how many trips before all are resting in graded holders without dipping at all >>
I know it was because of the dark toning they came back gennied, thats why I called. Why should I have to destroy original toning, I mean these coins had no hairlines at all. I think the original surfaces should of been rewarded. >>
just wait a few months and resubmit. i betcha some of the rest will grade. trickle them back in for grading. you have to play the game sometimes.
i say this assuming the coins appear to be grade"able". I looked at the pics but it was tough to tell.
just wait a few months and resubmit. i betcha some of the rest will grade. trickle them back in for grading. you have to play the game sometimes.
i say this assuming the coins appear to be grade"able". I looked at the pics but it was tough to tell. >>
It shouldn't be to hard to get them graded, I'm more taken back with the shield nickel grading the highest for reason stated in one of my previous posts. I just looked at a ngc pr65 1872 $1 and its just a dark around devices and actually looks worse then mine as far as toning is concerned and also has same smoothing on knee of liberty. Its like they say buy the coin not the holder, but either way I still don't feel at a lose considering what it is.
I'm anxious to see TomB's pictues of these coins whenever you send them to him.
Fall 2026 National Battlefield Coin Show September 11 & 12, 2026 at the Eisenhower Hotel Ballroom, Gettysburg, PA. Early Bird passes Thursday September 10, 2026 from Noon to 5pm $25 each. WWW.AmericasCoinShows.com
<< <i>I'm anxious to see TomB's pictues of these coins whenever you send them to him. >>
First I have to get them back, I haven't made plans with TomB yet either but hes been recommended to me general speaking. I also need to take a real good look again at the four that didn't grade and make a decision on my next move because these will be resubmitted. When and to who, I'm still thinking as for now.
Coins shipped today and the grades stand at what PCGS graded them at they said after reviewing them. I would like to try and take better photos of the four and post them on the forum maybe in a new thread to get opinions and make a decision of what too do next.
Four of these coins have been regraded my set is now all graded. I will post a New pic's of all coins in graded holders in a few days when they come back.
1 1872 $1 USA PR61 2 1872 50C USA PR61 3 1872 25C USA PR62 4 1872 10C USA PR63 5 1872 H10C USA PR63 6 1872 5C USA PR65 7 1872 3CN USA PR64 8 1872 3CS USA PR63 9 1872 2C USA PR63RB 10 1872 1C USA PR63RB
I've been watching this post, not the other 1872, for quite a while with curiosity.
A few thoughts.
First, I applaud you for taking some risks and learning by buying raw coins. This is one way that you REALLY learn and you are doing it. Price of admission can be painful, but overall, I'd say your education, as far as what you have posted, has been about break even.
Second, I still think you are probably a bit cavalier with what you buy. If you are willing to go to a BBQ, then more power to you. Just realize, that eventually a big BBQ is going to come your way. It happens to all of us at one time or another in the hobby or business.
Third, I personally feel, while you are getting coins into slabs, that the coins you are picking are not exactly choice or exciting. There is a market for those coins, but I am not sure if you are learning the second half of the equation, and that is selling coins and the difference in prices between good and bad, choice and average. Make sure that you work on that part of the game too. It is just as eye opening.
Anyway, just wanted to pass on some unsolicited advice. Good luck and good hunting.
Thanks coinlieutenant, I don't understand the BBQ thing but you ca n always explain it for me. As far as the sell side I think I might lose a couple k on this one, luckily I'm pretty sure I made it up on the other dollar. I was still figuring out the eye appeal versus technical aspect when I bought this, I now know better.
I didn't follow the thread much at all, and merely jumped in and out of it while only reading sections, since the images were so poor. However, it seems that you did better than might have been anticipated for a completely raw set purchased as one group. Hopefully, you came out ahead on the financial aspect, too.
You Suck! Awarded 6/2008- 1901-O Micro O Morgan, 8/2008- 1878 VAM-123 Morgan, 9/2022 1888-O VAM-1B3 H8 Morgan | Senior Regional Representative- ANACS Coin Grading. Posted opinions on coins are my own, and are not an official ANACS opinion.
Here is link to registry set Michiganboy's. I used the unmatched dollar cause it graded higher then the one that came with the set , but the set will stay together in regardless of what I use to up grade the registry.
Thats a good point, should I of sent it in for the attribute and can I get it holder in the same grade just attributed? >>
Unfortunately, with PCGS, I don't think so- It isn't in the CPG, IIRC.
You Suck! Awarded 6/2008- 1901-O Micro O Morgan, 8/2008- 1878 VAM-123 Morgan, 9/2022 1888-O VAM-1B3 H8 Morgan | Senior Regional Representative- ANACS Coin Grading. Posted opinions on coins are my own, and are not an official ANACS opinion.
Comments
<< <i>Don't forget for the grades it's business days, so I'd guess the 24, 25th...Then there's the Holiday...I've got a submission in as well on Modern, rec'd the 1st...nothing yet... >>
And there's also the Long Beach show at the end of the month... might not get your grades until early June.
Michael Kittle Rare Coins --- 1908-S Indian Head Cent Grading Set --- No. 1 1909 Mint Set --- Kittlecoins on Facebook --- Long Beach Table 700
type2,CCHunter.
type2,CCHunter.
<< <i>Nope, checking every few hours now though. I'm kinda a impatient person though, should be any day now but today is the 13th business day and well could be longer then 15 days I hear. >>
either 16 or 17 days now... ?
I've been told I tolerate fools poorly...that may explain things if I have a problem with you. Current ebay items - Nothing at the moment
Now the question is do I leave them or dip them and send them back?
I don't know link works for me, even logged out. If it don't go to shared order page order # 20600323
type2,CCHunter.
1 1872 $1 USA Genuine - UNC Details (97 - Environmental Damage)
2 1872 50C USA Genuine - UNC Details (97 - Environmental Damage)
3 1872 25C USA PR62
4 1872 10C USA PR63
5 1872 H10C USA Genuine - UNC Details (97 - Environmental Damage)
6 1872 5C USA PR65
7 1872 3CN USA PR64
8 1872 3CS USA Genuine - UNC Details (97 - Environmental Damage)
9 1872 2C USA PR63RB
10 1872 1C USA PR63RB
<< <i>I think one way or another you are going to learn a valuable lesson... >>
I do hope that you take this to heart
merse
<< <i>
<< <i>I think one way or another you are going to learn a valuable lesson... >>
I do hope that you take this to heart >>
No not really, Its still nice set of coins and I know I could just as well crack the whole set and sell it for as much as I paid including my grading fees.
Edited to add I just got of the phone and am having the coins brought back down as I feel its a shame to have to dip off original toning just to get a grade on a matched set.
type2,CCHunter.
Maybe that's a dumb question. Forgive my ignorance.
``https://ebay.us/m/KxolR5
copper usually runs into problems first
i wonder if cracked out and sent in how many gennies would become made coins
even to add
if repeated how many trips before all are resting in graded holders
without dipping at all
<< <i>i find a lil surprise in that some of the silver ran into problems versus the copper pieces
copper usually runs into problems first
i wonder if cracked out and sent in how many gennies would become made coins
even to add
if repeated how many trips before all are resting in graded holders
without dipping at all >>
I know it was because of the dark toning they came back gennied, thats why I called. Why should I have to destroy original toning, I mean these coins had no hairlines at all. I think the original surfaces should of been rewarded.
type2,CCHunter.
<< <i>Shouldn't a proof be attributed with "PRF details" in a genuine holder instead of UNC details , so as to avoid confusion about the coin being a proof ?
Maybe that's a dumb question. Forgive my ignorance. >>
nope...no forgiveness for you...sentence...doing the dishes and cleaning up the doggy doo for a week with no gloves...and you have to use a special oylmpics commemorative for your desktop background...
<< <i>Shouldn't a proof be attributed with "PRF details" in a genuine holder instead of UNC details , so as to avoid confusion about the coin being a proof ?
Maybe that's a dumb question. Forgive my ignorance. >>
The holder will say proof, but below that it says unc details w/ what ever the reason
type2,CCHunter.
Commems and Early Type
<< <i>Toning is not regarded to be "Environmental Damage" so you need to show these coins to an experienced collector to determine whether your coins have corrosion or PVC or some other issue that caused them to be returned as such by PCGS. DIpping the coins will not resolve the problem >>
Actually if you read the grading standards of PCGS Excessive toning is a reason for a getting a code 97 (environmental damage). PVC will not be holder due to the nature of instability of it and no corrosion on the coins.
type2,CCHunter.
<< <i>
<< <i>I think one way or another you are going to learn a valuable lesson... >>
I do hope that you take this to heart >>
Yup, no Santa Claus in numismatics unless it's because one is using superior research knowledge or grading skills to find those bargains.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
<< <i>Did PCGS specifically state that the coins received a 97 code because they were too darkly toned? That seems quite odd, since the TPGs love darkly toned Seated coinage and the images of the coins do not make them appear to be that dark. The code 97 would also include damage from pitting, corrosion, lacquer removal or a host of other surface problems. >>
No, but having the coins in hand some of the toning was excessively dark around devices and in general darker then any other NT coins I have owned and I seen no other surface issues and being these four where the darkest and excessive toning listed as one of the reason to 97 on PCGS grading standards I see no other reason why. The funny thing is the Shield nickel had that stain, something green on it, and hazy, but it grades the highest. I did clean off the green spot but otherwise it was the same and had a break in the lines in the shield ( damaged design) probably from something hitting it.
Edited to add I did wonder originally if the toning would cause a 97 after noticing the excessive toning part, but wrote it off thinking the same thing you stated above Tom. My local dealer had told me about having a similar problem once with originally toned coins coming back 97 way before I even seen this set.
type2,CCHunter.
coin where luster cannot be observed over a dark patch. But in my experience the grade gets lowered accordingly far more often than assigning a BB.
<< <i>If the toning is so dark that the mirrors cannot be seen on parts of the coin, that's a potential problem. It would be no different on a mint state
coin where luster cannot be observed over a dark patch. But in my experience the grade gets lowered accordingly far more often than assigning a BB. >>
What about where its black around the devices? It was like a black outlining around the devices on these coins, except the 3cS. That one was still real dark but no pitting or corrosion. Also the toning was not burning into the surface.
Edited to add the PCGS grading standards for code 97 for their website
Environmental Damage.
Coins that are damaged because of improper storage may be rejected. Corrosion is caused by storage in areas of high humidity, sea salvage coins, and coins found in the ground. Toning that is excessively dark or heavy, or which burns into the surface of the coin, may be rejected.
This is why I called, I really don't feel I should have to dip my coins just to get a grade. The toning was black sure, but it was original and being what the coins are I don't want to mess with them unless I feel its detrimental to the coins surfaces (i.e. removing the unknown green spot on my shield nickel)
type2,CCHunter.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
<< <i>Black around the devices that isn't simply dark toning can earn a coin a code 97 very quickly. In my experience, this type of schmutz isn't so much toning as it is some type of crud that has gotten onto the surfaces and damaged the underlying metal. Again, I have not seen the coins in-hand and am only going by what you have shared as well as my own experience. >>
Well Tom, when I get them back I was thinking of having you image them anyway. So If you want to, you will get to see them in hand as well. The black is toning and now I just have to wait another week hopefully for them to go back to the grading room. After that I will either be happy or probably crack them out and send them ATS.
type2,CCHunter.
<< <i>
<< <i>i find a lil surprise in that some of the silver ran into problems versus the copper pieces
copper usually runs into problems first
i wonder if cracked out and sent in how many gennies would become made coins
even to add
if repeated how many trips before all are resting in graded holders
without dipping at all >>
I know it was because of the dark toning they came back gennied, thats why I called. Why should I have to destroy original toning, I mean these coins had no hairlines at all. I think the original surfaces should of been rewarded. >>
just wait a few months and resubmit. i betcha some of the rest will grade. trickle them
back in for grading. you have to play the game sometimes.
i say this assuming the coins appear to be grade"able". I looked at the pics but
it was tough to tell.
back in for grading. you have to play the game sometimes.
i say this assuming the coins appear to be grade"able". I looked at the pics but
it was tough to tell. >>
It shouldn't be to hard to get them graded, I'm more taken back with the shield nickel grading the highest for reason stated in one of my previous posts. I just looked at a ngc pr65 1872 $1 and its just a dark around devices and actually looks worse then mine as far as toning is concerned and also has same smoothing on knee of liberty. Its like they say buy the coin not the holder, but either way I still don't feel at a lose considering what it is.
type2,CCHunter.
<< <i>I'm a little surprised that the half dime and 3CS didn't grade. The nickel grading as high as 65 is the biggest shock of the submission. >>
Exactly how I felt.
type2,CCHunter.
<< <i>I'm anxious to see TomB's pictues of these coins whenever you send them to him. >>
First I have to get them back, I haven't made plans with TomB yet either but hes been recommended to me general speaking. I also need to take a real good look again at the four that didn't grade and make a decision on my next move because these will be resubmitted. When and to who, I'm still thinking as for now.
type2,CCHunter.
type2,CCHunter.
1 1872 $1 USA PR61
2 1872 50C USA PR61
3 1872 25C USA PR62
4 1872 10C USA PR63
5 1872 H10C USA PR63
6 1872 5C USA PR65
7 1872 3CN USA PR64
8 1872 3CS USA PR63
9 1872 2C USA PR63RB
10 1872 1C USA PR63RB
type2,CCHunter.
Now, who you gonna believe?
I've been watching this post, not the other 1872, for quite a while with curiosity.
A few thoughts.
First, I applaud you for taking some risks and learning by buying raw coins. This is one way that you REALLY learn and you are doing it. Price of admission can be painful, but overall, I'd say your education, as far as what you have posted, has been about break even.
Second, I still think you are probably a bit cavalier with what you buy. If you are willing to go to a BBQ, then more power to you. Just realize, that eventually a big BBQ is going to come your way. It happens to all of us at one time or another in the hobby or business.
Third, I personally feel, while you are getting coins into slabs, that the coins you are picking are not exactly choice or exciting. There is a market for those coins, but I am not sure if you are learning the second half of the equation, and that is selling coins and the difference in prices between good and bad, choice and average. Make sure that you work on that part of the game too. It is just as eye opening.
Anyway, just wanted to pass on some unsolicited advice. Good luck and good hunting.
John
P.S. As always...love that date.
siliconvalleycoins.com
type2,CCHunter.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
<< <i>And the nickel is still a DDO.[/q
Thats a good point, should I of sent it in for the attribute and can I get it holder in the same grade just attributed?
type2,CCHunter.
I used the unmatched dollar cause it graded higher then the one that came with the set , but the set will stay together in regardless of what I use to up grade the registry.
type2,CCHunter.
<< <i>
<< <i>And the nickel is still a DDO.[/q
Thats a good point, should I of sent it in for the attribute and can I get it holder in the same grade just attributed? >>
Unfortunately, with PCGS, I don't think so- It isn't in the CPG, IIRC.