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To all the 1955 Topps baseball card collectors

MCMLVToppsMCMLVTopps Posts: 4,605 ✭✭✭✭✭

From time to time I post this pic to encourage all the 55T collectors to not give up and continue to the end. This set was about 15 cards short of a straight PSA 8 collection. I obtained the 2005 National VIP set, got them graded and they were a perfect addition to flesh out the set...those of course were, Score, Ford, Feller and Musial.

As you can see, the set really pops when you display it in a case as I did. Basic carpentry skills, a table saw is about all you'll need to make your own case.

GL collecting this really great set from 1955!



  • RobbyRobby Posts: 657 ✭✭✭

    Al ..........Very impressive set and nice job on building the display case !

    Collect 1964 Topps Baseball
    1963 Fleer
    Lou Brock Master Set
  • bishopbishop Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭

    Magnificent display

    Topps Baseball-1948, 1951 to 2017
    Bowman Baseball -1948-1955
    Fleer Baseball-1923, 1959-2007

  • JoeBanzaiJoeBanzai Posts: 11,208 ✭✭✭✭✭


    2013,14 and 15 Certificate Award Winner Harmon Killebrew Master Set and Master Topps Set
  • MCMLVToppsMCMLVTopps Posts: 4,605 ✭✭✭✭✭

    TKS for the comments!

    The beautiful thing about the 55T set is the number of cards, 206, (or 210 if you get the 4 missing cards). Many other sets with a high number of cards make them difficult to display, unless you have unlimited space. Perhaps a climatized basement where you might have lots of wall space. If you are fortunate to have that situation, then a continuous row might be a consideration.

    Again, I strongly encourage all 55T collectors to finish the set. If you have a north facing wall (NO sunlight on the cards), and with basic carpentry skills, build a case and enjoy looking at your stuff. Remember, 15 cards per row, times 14 rows is the key, each card is little over 5 1/4 inches...the math is easy from there. I cut a 1/4" dado (groove) about 1/4" from the front edge of each row for the cards to "sit in" and the depth of the row was enough for the cards to lean backwards nicely without any risk of falling out. I added a bit of "slop" on each row so that I could easily pull a card out to look at it...IOW, they weren't tightly packed together. I used 1/4" plywood for the back and stained.

  • smallstockssmallstocks Posts: 1,595 ✭✭✭✭

    That is awesome! I am 6 cards short of completing the set in PSA 8 or better, but I have zero carpentry or handyman skills so for now they will have to continue to sit in boxes.

    Late 60's and early to mid 70's non-sports
  • MCMLVToppsMCMLVTopps Posts: 4,605 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Smallstocks...you and I did business several years ago, perhaps 10 or so. I'm glad you hung in there and pushed ahead to completing a straight 8 set. Let us know when you get those last 6...hopefully no Clemente or star cards needed, I am in awe of the current prices!!! Used to be you could pick up a Clemente 7 for a bit over $2k, and an 8 in the $3-4k range...prices for them now are insane. I sold my set about 6 years ago and used the $$ on a new home. I must admit, I kinda wish I still had them, they looked so good in that case.

    As for the carpentry skills...none really needed. Just sit down like I did and figure it out. One thing I discovered was that 15 cards across, times 14 vertical rows, came to exactly 210!! How convenient. I put that display case together in a weekend and had all my materials on hand and it went pretty easy. Vertical spacing of the rows isn't hard, the bottom piece is actually the 14th row. I used scrap pieces of wood to ensure spacing was constant as I glued the rows onto the back side. I did add some very small nails into the backside for support...you can snap a chalk line across where the middle of the row is (will keep you from splitting the row piece) and nail about 6 nails across.

    If you've got a buddy with a table saw, a drill and maybe a few clamps, you be able to do what I did. The rows have a groove about 1/4" from the front of the piece and about 1/4" deep, this is where the cards sit. I forget the depth from front to back, but play around a little and see what angle works best for the cards to lean against the back wall of the case.

    I supported the frame with 1/4" plywood, as I recall, it took a whole sheet, but you'll have to cut it to fit. Make sure the junction of where the pieces meet, is hidden behind a row piece. Square up the corners and use some yellow wood glue to assemble. You can do this, get a buddy to help you. Oh, leave a little "slop" between cards so you can slide one or two aside to pull one out, otherwise you may have the whole row hit the floor. I stained it a walnut brown. Oh yeah, support the case with a cleat (that you don't see in the pic) across the bottom, secure it to studs in the wall...this will keep the case from crashing over. I then used wall board screws (black) in random order to screw the wall to the sheetrock, maybe 25 screws.

    I PROMISE, when you see your cards displayed in that case, you will be in awe, especially the stuff you have. Make sure not to display your case facing a south direction, the sun will eventually do some damage, a north facing wall is best.

    Nice to be in touch with you again. Congrats on such a truly awesome collection!!

    Al - mcmlvtopps - aka Teddy Ballgame

  • smallstockssmallstocks Posts: 1,595 ✭✭✭✭

    I do need the Koufax and Clemente. Not a biggie really since I sold my Koufax for 20k last year in the crazy run up so I can easily buy back for half price whenever I feel like it.

    As for selling your set, as amazing as it may be, owning a home for your family will always come first!

    Nice to reconnect!

    Late 60's and early to mid 70's non-sports
  • mexpo75mexpo75 Posts: 1,912 ✭✭✭

    Absolutely awesome! Wish I had a man cave and something like that to look at while sipping some Woodford Reserve.

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