Topps Magic/Bird rookie
JimMeant
Posts: 342 ✭✭✭
What are the telltale signs of determining a real copy from a fake one?
-Collecting anything vintage
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JimMeant
Posts: 342 ✭✭✭
Comments
First, make sure Stupid Upshaw doesn't have any stats on the back(this is sort of a running joke but the reprint/counterfeit with that on it exists and the rest of the card looks somewhat decent). Also in another bad version the computer screen on Magic's back could have the word Replica in it but that is a more obvious reprint. Besides that perforations should come through both sides or it could be sheet cut (BGS only) or reprint and usually the reprints have the wrong-coloring of the fronts so compare with a real graded one for that. And the most obvious sign for authenticity is the front Print defects. About 50-75% of these cards have something print distorted or dusting of the printer ink in at least a few areas on the front and/or the black lines on the back with their names(in blue) will have small fish eyes of print defect in the black areas. Without a picture that is the best rundown I can give but if the card has front pd I would already guesstimate it is real. But keep in mind that will affect grading to a qualifier if enough exists or you will suffer 1 to 2 grades with no qualifier.
*In general PD or fisheyes can be a really helpful thing when it comes to determining authenticity of a vintage card. It would of course affect the grade if worn heavy, but I have yet to see reprints incorporate the PD or fisheyes for various reasons of a card appearing mint stock. If I see a questionable card I look for fisheyes before I throw it off as a counterfeit(found in attic) scam. You still have to worry about trimming/recoloring/all alterations obviously but the authenticity could be verified within reason with PD.
Here is the copy of the card in question
It's real
Okay, what makes you believe it to be real?
pd black spots between borders
Do any of you guys have any thoughts/opinions as to the technical grade of this card?
Real - the PD as mentioned is the key here on this card.
I would say PSA 7 straight is your highest obtainable. PSA 8 PD is likely possible as well. Value rides higher on the 7 and probably a 6 is about break even to the 8PD so that should give you the range slightly to asking for no qualifiers in that case. I myself do not mind the PD on this card since it is on the majority of them so a 8 or 9 pd is a better card to me than the 6-7 but its an opinion.
Here's another copy.
Thoughts as to whether or not this copy is the real deal? And potential Psa grade?
The best way for me to tell the difference from originals and fakes when I first joined ebay was to actually buy a bunch of cheep fakes. Now fake cards stick out like a sore thumb especially in hand which is not very often. I can't remember the last time. Still there are some good ones out there, when in doubt send to psa asap.
Can anybody chime in on the authenticity of the 2nd copy of the card I posted above?
Need to see the back as well please. Unable to determine authenticity on the front ---coloration is different but they are all faded so it could be wear. I would initially think it is questionable, but still could be authentic after further reviewing. Also this card appears to have 3 fingernail lifts on the edges so if it is authentic I think it would grade lower than the other card. PSA 4-6 top end.
Here is a pic of the back of the card
Can you get a higher resolution picture like the others? If you have it in hand that is. It looks pretty grainy which could be your phone or could be that its a copy reprint. Also do the perforations come through the back and if so are they as strong as on the other card? Hard to tell due to the grainy photos. I would have to lean fake if I was forced to at this point.