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submission question

I constantly struggle with deciding which level to submit at. Here is a perfect example, I have a 1959 topps Clemente #478, which is probably going to grade between 5 and 7; there standards are really tough now, so I'm figuring lower rather than higher; according to VCP 6.5 and above averages over 100. Can't I submit at the collectors club level less than 100; If I do so am I limiting my upside, Perhaps I get lucky and it grades 6.5 or 7. Could it still get a 7?

I have to much S**t; so if you working on sets or are a player/team collector, send me your want list, with conditions desired. Keep in mind I have a another job so please allow me a few days to respond.

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    secretstashsecretstash Posts: 1,393 ✭✭✭✭
    edited February 21, 2017 8:49AM

    Supposedly, when a card graded on the special pops higher value than you insured for, then they will reach out to you for payment of the correct service level and coverage. I think they make that decision more or less for their benefit to collect the higher fees they should have, but it does protect you also.

    I think it's best for you to be more than conservative and submit at the lower level, but for a seriously high dollar card, I would weigh my options at the time. I tend to usually go up to at least the 500 level on those since the card is worth that raw at the minimum.

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    HighGradeLegendsHighGradeLegends Posts: 1,693 ✭✭✭✭
    edited February 21, 2017 10:52AM

    @secretstash said:
    Supposedly, when a card graded on the special pops higher value than you insured for, then they will reach out to you for payment of the correct service level and coverage.

    What he said there. I had this happen to me on 3-4 different occasions; I get a phone call saying the card you sent in is a pop whatever and much higher valued...and that my bill will reflect this for return shipping. I am happy to always get this call and simply accept the extra shipping fees as the cost of doing business and striking a low pop / high grade / high value card.

    Outside of the above, I generally submit noting the raw value of the card, not projecting it will hit whatever grade. However, remember, this whole drill is for your return shipping insurance. So shorting the value to save a few bucks may prove costly on the other end. I know also shorting the value may move you to a less costly submission service level and may save you money there as well. Reference the image below. BL: take whatever risks you want, but do not get upset if you short changed values to save some money and this happens...

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    BatpigBatpig Posts: 460 ✭✭✭

    Submit at whatever you want to. They will call if it doesn't fly, but I've had bulk subs (100 or less) grade at a level making them worth as much as $1000 without them calling me.

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