OK, I'm confused about auto's

tonylags

I have a bunch of vintage auto cards {Pre 1970}, I want to submit to PSA for authenticity; I see blue labels with and with out grades, I see red labels. What is the difference? In terms of resale, which is the better choice, blue or red label? Grade or no grade? Is there an explanation somewhere of the differences?

RipublicaninMass

Blue-reprints
Red flip with auto grade-pointless IMO
Red flip with card grade-best deal
Dual grade- only if you think you can get a 10 on the auto

That being sais, unless you have tough signers, its probably not worth it to grade them for resale. I dont know the intricacies of the sets and signers much after the 50s, but even hof guys like brooks robby, and carew will barely cover the grading fee depending on the issue

dytch2220

A blue label is referred to as "Autograph Encapsulation Service". The autograph can be on a legitimate trading card or not. This is sometimes used if a legitimate trading card has been assigned a low-grade for its condition, to focus on the grade or authenticity of the auto alone. The auto can also be on a photograph, index card or anything that fits into the holder inlcuding a reprint card. You can choose to have a grade assigned if the autograph is well done or to have an "Authentic" label added if you don't think the auto will grade well.

A red label is a "Card Grading Service" that, when the item has been autographed, grades the auto as well. If the item you had signed was an authentic trading card AND you think it will receive a high or desirable grade for the card's condition then you can use this encapsulation method to add more value. Just like the blue flip, the auto can either be simply authenticated or you can choose to have it assigned a grade. Typically if the auto looks nice a grade is requested. If you don't think the auto will receive a high technical grade you can opt for the "Authentic" label.

tonylags

I'm a collectors club member; Do I use same online form as cards? does it cost extra to request a grade?

here is an example; sorry about bad picture my scanner is down and I used my phone {upside down, apparently}

vols1

It's going to make very little difference in price whether it's blue or red flip, with or without grade. All those extra services are for high end cards like Jordan & Mantle rookies.

SDSportsFan

dytch2220

If you're doing the blue flip, you'll need to print the autograph encapsulation submission form. If a red flip you can use the online form alone. This can't go on the same form as other cards that are not getting the same service. I don't know the cost but you may want to wait for a group blue flip sub to open up in the forum.

mrmopar

The Mays you show is from 1982, by the way.

@tonylags said:
I have a bunch of vintage auto cards {Pre 1970},

tonylags

Thanks for clarification on the Mays, I do have many others, but with this specific example, I'm still confused; is the Mays worth submitting? If so {what label, red or blue}, what will cost me? If i am reading correctly, monthly special is 50% off, Mays auto is $30 ~ so I'm guessing $15. ; I still don't know what label I'm getting and if it matters and to grade or no grade. Am I correct in reading it costs an extra $10 to get a grade, If so, Does it make a difference in terms of selling price? Any and all help appreciated, as I have at least 5-10,000 or so auto cards, that I picked up as part of a large collection years ago.

tonylags

I think I get it; I looked up 1982 kmart mays auto on ebay, Probstein had one blue label sell for $50.00; so I have to figure if I will get close to that unauthenticated; I don't think I will. I guess I'll have to check what auto's go for and determine if their worth the grading fee. Thanks for the help.

swish54

I would absolutely get a Mays auto authenticated. If it was on a 50's card of his, I'd be more inclined to pay the extra to get the card graded, but the card you have it on I'd just get the auto authenticated and that's it.