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SmittysSmittys Posts: 9,876 ✭✭✭✭✭

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  • SmittysSmittys Posts: 9,876 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @travis t said:
    I think Dpeck100 is about to gouge his eyeballs out.

    well gee whiz did someone piss in his corn flakes this morning. OOPS
    Asking a relative question on the boards and has nothing to do with the other one.... >:)

  • Dpeck100Dpeck100 Posts: 10,912 ✭✭✭✭✭

    He was joking with you.

    90

  • For resale, I don't think it's necessary to grade cards with autos where the card manufacturer already "guaranteed" the auto is genuine. (An exception could be really valuable autos like Ruth.) If the card didn't originally have the auto, and the auto was done later, then I definitely see that grading would be worth it, assuming the sale price of the card would be substantially more than the grading fee.

    For myself, I usually grade and encapsulate everything I can for my personal collection, mostly for protection reasons. However, I don't think it's usually worth it if you are just going to sell the card, IMHO.

  • SmittysSmittys Posts: 9,876 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Dpeck100 said:
    He was joking with you.

    90

    Figured so much as per my statement was all in fun...lol
    do I really have 90 threads woohoo

  • Dpeck100Dpeck100 Posts: 10,912 ✭✭✭✭✭

    No. I just picked the number 87 the other day to make a point in another thread and you have started three more since then. If your goal is to be the board member who starts the most threads you are definitely achieving that goal.

  • GrimsterGrimster Posts: 286 ✭✭✭

    I think auto authentication only is great for cards that have no issues with fakes (like a 1987 topps will clark for a random example). That signed card looks great in a normal blue flip.

    authentication for the card AND the auto is great for cards that are known to be faked a lot or are vintage (like a 1968 nolan ryan rookie). Red flip looks great

    Getting the card authenticated...the auto authenticated....AND have the card/auto graded? I can see how that could be a big value add to certain cards, but definitely not all.

    For resale I would do a mixture of all of those depending on what was being sent in. For Personal Collection only I would just stick with auto authentication in a blue flip because that's all I would care about. I currently have about 20 PSA/DNA cards/cuts authenticated and they are all in blue flips. Of course, these are the older blue flips that have the year and set names on them and not just "trading card"....but that's a different discussion lol

  • travis ttravis t Posts: 1,185 ✭✭✭

    @Smittys said:

    @Dpeck100 said:
    He was joking with you.

    90

    Figured so much as per my statement was all in fun...lol
    do I really have 90 threads woohoo

    Toldjah Smittys. Gotsta hassome fun. Represent!

  • MrHockeyMrHockey Posts: 555 ✭✭✭

    Grading autos alone is a giant waste in almost all circumstances. There are much cheaper authentication options via group sub.

    The answer to whether it is good to grade the card + authenticate really depends on the particular cards you're sending in. Unless high grade or super tough signers, the answer is usually yes.

  • vols1vols1 Posts: 793 ✭✭✭

    Anything under $200 just needs an authentic grade IMO. Seems like waste of money to grade common autographs.

  • jfkheatjfkheat Posts: 2,745 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Without knowing what autos you sent in there is no good answer for your question. If it was a bunch of common players then yes, it is a waste of time and money. If it is high profile players, yes, get them graded. How long before you have these for sale? A better question is, how long before you start another thread about cards that you sent in for grading and intend to sell as soon as you get them back?
    James

  • SmittysSmittys Posts: 9,876 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @jfkheat said:
    Without knowing what autos you sent in there is no good answer for your question. If it was a bunch of common players then yes, it is a waste of time and money. If it is high profile players, yes, get them graded. How long before you have these for sale? A better question is, how long before you start another thread about cards that you sent in for grading and intend to sell as soon as you get them back?
    James

    First off all the cards are 70's and before and stars and HOF's, as for selling the cards as soon as I get them back, I haven't done yet ever on this forum. Hope those answer your questions

  • MrHockeyMrHockey Posts: 555 ✭✭✭

    70s and before stars and HOFers doesn't mean much. High grade key, tough signers key.

  • RipublicaninMassRipublicaninMass Posts: 10,051 ✭✭✭

    Id rather have card grade only, vs auto grade only. I've had a few people ask about dual grading, but IMO it is currently not worth it. That being said, dual grade with PSA is still rather new to be able to tell. The "cleansed flip" mantle was a psa 3 and sold for 26k in 2013, it comes back around as "authentic, auto grade 9" and sells for 92k. Mantle cards being ouliers in the hobby right now make that sale a tough gauge.

  • LarkinCollectorLarkinCollector Posts: 8,975 ✭✭✭✭✭

    This is a question best asked before you send off the sub. Opinions at this point are irrelevant and the thread just comes off as braggadocious.

  • RipublicaninMassRipublicaninMass Posts: 10,051 ✭✭✭

    BUT we can make rash comments on the thread since it isnt in the bst board!

  • travis ttravis t Posts: 1,185 ✭✭✭

    Supercalifragilisticexpibraggadocious!

  • RipublicaninMassRipublicaninMass Posts: 10,051 ✭✭✭

    An exercise in futility, rarely results in fruition

  • bobmoatbobmoat Posts: 257 ✭✭

    Did S finally get the memo?

  • Gemyanks10Gemyanks10 Posts: 1,164 ✭✭✭

    Peace

    Always looking for OPC "tape intact" baseball wax boxes, and 1984 OPC baseball PSA 10's for my set. Please PM or email me if you have any available.
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