(I was gonna string it out here like I did on the Liteside, but there was no point in having two clones of the thread, particularly as it was the wee hours and nobody was around to keep in suspense.)
Not lame! It's very smart...you do a bit of selling and this will be tremendously helpful. Cell phone cameras (and presumably other basic cameras) have gotten wwaaayyyy better and take pretty darn good shots of a lot of stuff...but the smaller items are just out of reach. A good camera, better lens, stable shooting and good lighting will be a vast improvement. This was a wise investment.
Here is not my very first photo with the new camera (that was an accidental shot of the stage plate, and all black), nor my second (that was a blurry whitish disc).
But the obverse and reverse of this coin are my third and fourth photos ever with the new camera.
I was (and still am) fumbling through the software and all the bewildering symbols and icons, so I consider it encouraging that I was able to make the camera take a picture at all at this point!
I wanted to pick a "lucky" coin for my first photos, and since I never had any decent pix of this one, I thought I'd try it. What more lucky than a metal detecting find?
This ca. 1300-1310 Long Cross silver penny of Edward I "Longshanks" was the first coin I found on my 2013 metal detecting trip to England.
The pictures are just... OK. Considering my utter inexperience, I'm pleased with how they turned out.
The lighting could have been better, as could the focus. But this is an adequate set of images, I think.
I do like using the microscope stand's wheels to adjust the rough focus, with the wheels for the bellows adjusting the finer focus.
If a complete newb like me can produce something like this on only the third and fourth tries, I think this might just work out nicely in the long run!
First, the merged obverse-reverse images, in my standard 800x400 layout I use for raw coins. Then the larger 800x800 individual sides. The raw index images were of course much larger.
I cropped and resized these images using MS Paint, which is the photo editing software I'm most familiar with at this point. But that is the only editing done here.
The rest is just as it came off the camera. No tweaking of color, white balance, etc. (I still have no clue how to do all that yet.)
Edit: OK, as a seasoned photographer who now has FOUR coin photos under his belt, I can see that the focus is off on this set, particularly the reverse image.
But hey, these were my very first, so I won't beat myself up too much.
(In response to Stork's post on the Liteside thread)
Originally posted by: Stork
Can't wait to see it set up and some photos!
If possible, could you post the steps in your setting up and first few shots? Purely for selfish reasons as I hope to see a similar box soon (a little bigger set up to accommodate my medals...). I'm also REALLY curious to see how the camera software install/implementation goes. The idea of being able to adjust the shot by looking at a screen is fantastic.
Great investment for both hobby enjoyment and for improved selling!
Hi, Cathy.
Do I take your post to mean that you bought a setup from Ray as well?
If so, I think you're gonna like it!
We'll take out the trusty old iPhone 3 for a couple of shots of me shooting the English penny.
I have a feeling the learning curve for me will be a little steep at first, but wow, I'm looking forward to it (and yes, I am pending a set up that is a little more suitable to larger coins/medals so mine will have a larger footprint).
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Justin Meunier
Boardwalk Numismatics
My YouTube Channel
Here is not my very first photo with the new camera (that was an accidental shot of the stage plate, and all black), nor my second (that was a blurry whitish disc).
But the obverse and reverse of this coin are my third and fourth photos ever with the new camera.
I was (and still am) fumbling through the software and all the bewildering symbols and icons, so I consider it encouraging that I was able to make the camera take a picture at all at this point!
I wanted to pick a "lucky" coin for my first photos, and since I never had any decent pix of this one, I thought I'd try it. What more lucky than a metal detecting find?
This ca. 1300-1310 Long Cross silver penny of Edward I "Longshanks" was the first coin I found on my 2013 metal detecting trip to England.
The pictures are just... OK. Considering my utter inexperience, I'm pleased with how they turned out.
The lighting could have been better, as could the focus. But this is an adequate set of images, I think.
I do like using the microscope stand's wheels to adjust the rough focus, with the wheels for the bellows adjusting the finer focus.
If a complete newb like me can produce something like this on only the third and fourth tries, I think this might just work out nicely in the long run!
First, the merged obverse-reverse images, in my standard 800x400 layout I use for raw coins. Then the larger 800x800 individual sides. The raw index images were of course much larger.
I cropped and resized these images using MS Paint, which is the photo editing software I'm most familiar with at this point. But that is the only editing done here.
The rest is just as it came off the camera. No tweaking of color, white balance, etc. (I still have no clue how to do all that yet.)
Edit: OK, as a seasoned photographer who now has FOUR coin photos under his belt, I can see that the focus is off on this set, particularly the reverse image.
But hey, these were my very first, so I won't beat myself up too much.
Gonna get me a $50 Octagonal someday. Some. Day.
Can't wait to see it set up and some photos!
If possible, could you post the steps in your setting up and first few shots? Purely for selfish reasons as I hope to see a similar box soon
Great investment for both hobby enjoyment and for improved selling!
Hi, Cathy.
Do I take your post to mean that you bought a setup from Ray as well?
If so, I think you're gonna like it!
We'll take out the trusty old iPhone 3 for a couple of shots of me shooting the English penny.
I recently got this nice little '46-S Roosie in a bulk silver (not junk silver) lot.
Has nice cartwheel luster and some subtle pastel tones around the obverse peripheries. Not so much toning on the reverse.
This one was very tricky. I can tell coins like this are going to take me a LOT more practice.
Did much fiddling with light and focus before I came up with these images.
Considering my current level of experience (i.e., practically zilch), I'm about 80-85% satisfied with these pix... for now.
This "Sam Jessop" love token has a very interesting backstory, as I discovered Sam Jessop was an infamous hypochondriac.
First, here are the set of images from the original eBay seller.
They do not do it justice.
Next, my attempts.
Again, I'm maybe 85-90% satisfied with how they turned out, based on my inexperience.
This 1963 30-drachmai piece is a 34 mm silver coin.
Except for a little bit of russet toning around the crown, the coin is almost all white.
These images imparted a little bit more color than is actually there, I think.
This coin is considerably whiter in hand, and is quite lustrous.
I think my lighting and/or white balance were a tad off, here. I dunno.
Anyway, I'm perhaps 75-80% satisfied with these images.
I like that silver penny you found, very cool!
My YouTube Channel
Toning is tricky (said in my best Elmer Fudd voice) and you did great to capture it on that roosie.
"Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working" Pablo Picasso
Congrats on the new set up LM.
8 Reales Madness Collection
I have a feeling the learning curve for me will be a little steep at first, but wow, I'm looking forward to it (and yes, I am pending a set up that is a little more suitable to larger coins/medals so mine will have a larger footprint).
planetnumismatics.com/
planetnumismatics.com/