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1956 Topps Baseball

This is my first post to the site. I have been out of the hobby for many years, but just jumped back in. This is a great site/forum with tons of great information.



My post is in regards to the 56 Topps baseball set. I found a number of raw cards I am considering subbing. My question- is it normal for the cards to be more of an off white on the front (these are all gray backs). Wasn't sure if this is normal or potential fading. Also, I noticed most have a rough cut - is that typical for 56?



Thanks in advance.

Comments

  • BrickBrick Posts: 4,992 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Hi, hello, how are ya? image
    Collecting 1960 Topps Baseball in PSA 8
    http://www.unisquare.com/store/brick/

    Ralph

  • bishopbishop Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭
    Welcome aboard

    Text
    Text
    Topps Baseball-1948, 1951 to 2017
    Bowman Baseball -1948-1955
    Fleer Baseball-1923, 1959-2007

    Al
  • travis ttravis t Posts: 1,185 ✭✭✭
    Good morning, welcome. To answer your concerns, yes the '56 Topps baseball cards can be color faded depending on the amount of exposure they've had and/or handling. The paper is a thick stock and some flaws are difficult to see without magnification. The rough cuts are typical as well, and in my opinion, a nicely centered '56 card with a crispy feel and slightly choppy edges is quite nice to have. Post a few scans of your cards here if you can and others may chime in about your grade potential with them. Good luck.
  • sinoth23sinoth23 Posts: 152 ✭✭
    Thanks all. Will look to post scans later in the week.



    Appreciate the follow-up.
  • Stone193Stone193 Posts: 24,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I have been out of the hobby for many years, but just jumped back in.




    Hi and welcome.



    If you don't mind, I'd like to give you Stone's best advice on getting back to the hobby.



    Rule #1 - establish a definite FOCUS.



    Rule #2 - establish a definite BUDGET.



    Rule #3 - NEVER break rule 1 or 2!



    I'm not well versed on the 56T set - so I'll defer to someone else.



    It's nice to see that you've focused in on one set - that's a good thing.



    I have found if someone doesn't have a very narrow focus, they tend to run all over the place - trying to corner the market on just about everything.



    Now, on the 56T set. It will be easy to go all OCD and want to do the set at MACH speed.



    I like the approach to set building where it's more like a marathon than a 100 meter dash. This will keep you from going way over budget and eliminate the night sweats and prevent you from screaming into the night.



    Good luck, happy hunting and don't be a stranger. image
    Mike
  • sinoth23sinoth23 Posts: 152 ✭✭
    Great advice and thank you. A little overwhelming with all of the changes over the past 10+ years. Thanks again.
  • LarkinCollectorLarkinCollector Posts: 8,975 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Originally posted by: Stone193
    I have found if someone doesn't have a very narrow focus, they tend to run all over the place - trying to corner the market on just about everything.

    Thanks for the shout out, Mike image I'm pretty good on Rule #2 and the portion of Rule #3 that applies to it. Rule #1 continues to be elusive.

    OP, good luck in your quest! The 56T set is gorgeous, even in mid-grades. There's a long running thread in the PSA Set Registry Forum dedicated to discussion of the 56T set: Link that should be helpful as well to connect with others working on the set.
  • jmmiller777jmmiller777 Posts: 1,324 ✭✭✭
    Welcome! I'm not the 56 expert but I do have quite a few cards slabbed from that era. I'm sure I will get corrected by a real pro, and this is ok, but here you go. I believe the card stock from 1952 up to about 60/61 appears to be the same. I believe the color should be white, but aging takes it's toll and there is a lot of browning or fading. I collect HOFer's and just received a 57 Ashburn that is worse than what I would call normal. It showed pretty nice, but it is far from being white like other cards from that year/era. The white isn't a bright glossy "ceiling white", but should be a "whiter shade of pale". And there you go!
    CURRENT PROJECTS IN WORK:
    To be honest, no direction, but...
    1966-69 Topps EX+
    1975 minis NrMt Kelloggs PSA 9
    All Topps Heritage-Master Sets
    image
  • Stone193Stone193 Posts: 24,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Originally posted by: LarkinCollector

    Originally posted by: Stone193

    I have found if someone doesn't have a very narrow focus, they tend to run all over the place - trying to corner the market on just about everything.


    Thanks for the shout out, Mike image I'm pretty good on Rule #2 and the portion of Rule #3 that applies to it. Rule #1 continues to be elusive.



    OP, good luck in your quest! The 56T set is gorgeous, even in mid-grades. There's a long running thread in the PSA Set Registry Forum dedicated to discussion of the 56T set: Link that should be helpful as well to connect with others working on the set.





    Hiya Kyle



    I hear ya.



    BTW, I'm pretty good at "giving" advice.



    Sometimes I wish I would "take" it.

    Mike
  • KendallCatKendallCat Posts: 3,009 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Originally posted by: Stone193
    I have been out of the hobby for many years, but just jumped back in.


    Hi and welcome.

    If you don't mind, I'd like to give you Stone's best advice on getting back to the hobby.

    Rule #1 - establish a definite FOCUS.

    Rule #2 - establish a definite BUDGET.

    Rule #3 - NEVER break rule 1 or 2!



    It's nice to see that you've focused in on one set - that's a good thing.

    I have found if someone doesn't have a very narrow focus, they tend to run all over the place - trying to corner the market on just about everything.


    Excellent advice and we should all adhere to it. If you do the FOCUS part right the budget should follow. If you do the BUDGET right you have to focus or have no money image This is one area I hope to improve in over the next year or two - used to do a pretty good job early on in my collecting days when I would collect every Johnny Bench card or 1975 set... I am currently working on a Mantle basic run, and I have 1952-1960 done, so hopefully I have the hardest part behind me. I figured 6 months ago I could grab the 1967-68-69 in PSA 8 for about $1400-1600 total, but now it will run me $3k.

    I have been taking some photos of some current items I have been working on which i think have turned out pretty good - hope to have some photos up this weekend to share with the board.

    KC

  • sinoth23sinoth23 Posts: 152 ✭✭
    Thanks again for all of the feedback / welcome notes. It's a great forum - have enjoyed going through various threads.
  • detroitfan2detroitfan2 Posts: 3,337 ✭✭✭✭
    Sinoth, are your cards "stars" or "commons?. Generally speaking, for 1956, the commons would need to get a grade of at least PSA 7 to even pay for the grading fees. For stars and Hall-of-Famers, obviously that is different, especially for the big cards like the Mantle. Is your plan to sell the cards or start a set on the set registry?

    Good luck!

    -Tom
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