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Auction format vs. Fixed Price Sellers Perspective

Wondering what the opinions and data are out there. I used to do auction format almost exclusively, but have not for the past 3+ years. Everything now is fixed price format. For low pop, rookies, vintage, high-grade pre 1980 stuff auction seems the clear way to go, as PWCC and Probstein123 get top money. For stuff that is priced from $5 to $100 I feel fixed price makes sense. The turnover is slower for fixed price, but every time I look at completed sales for auctions, I see stuff go for dirt cheap. Can't understand why people would continue to sell if they get 10cents on the dollar?

Clearly auctions make sense for a buying perspective, you bid your max and win- some -loose some. For items under $100 or so, you can make a killing buying player lots, inserts, bulk rookie cards etc.

What do others think about the mid to low range stuff auction vs. fixed price format?

Comments

  • Just my 2 cents Auction prices from a sellers perspective have suffered from the sniper tools. Before people got involved in the bidding and would go higher then they intended to just because it's human nature not to want to lose. Now a lot of people put in a price on the website and never get involved in the bidding. I'm not saying there's anything wrong with using sniping tools at all, just think some prices from the sellers view go down because people can't talk themselves into going higher if they aren't there for the last few minutes.
    " I'm supposed to be the franchise player, and we in here talking about practice. I mean, listen, we're talking about practice "
  • LarkinCollectorLarkinCollector Posts: 8,975 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Just my 2 cents Auction prices from a sellers perspective have suffered from the sniper tools. Before people got involved in the bidding and would go higher then they intended to just because it's human nature not to want to lose. Now a lot of people put in a price on the website and never get involved in the bidding. I'm not saying there's anything wrong with using sniping tools at all, just think some prices from the sellers view go down because people can't talk themselves into going higher if they aren't there for the last few minutes. >>


    +1, set it and forget it. No emotion.
  • milbrocomilbroco Posts: 2,735 ✭✭✭
    I think that the best way is the fixed format. But only for the common items. For unique or harder to find items, auction would be they way to go. I have a small amount of things in my ebay store at a fixed price. When they sell, great and when they don't by the terms ends, I relist.
    Now, over the past several weeks, I listed a bunch of 1950's and 1960's monster magazines for someone I know. I used the auction style because these were less readily available unless they were really tattered. I think they all did pretty well.
    Again, I think fixed format for the more common items and auction style for the harder to find.
    Robert
    ebay seller name milbroco
    email bcmiller7@comcast.net
  • miwlvrnmiwlvrn Posts: 4,264 ✭✭✭✭✭


    My preference is to list initially by auction starting at the minimum price I'd like to get, then once more with slightly lower price if no sale the first time. After a couple times through auction, switch it to buy-it-now.

    For items that are unusually rare/obscure/1-of-1, etc., it is often wisest to list with a high buy-it-now or best offer and field offers when you otherwise have no real information to go by when attempting to establish list price.



  • SdubSdub Posts: 736 ✭✭✭


    << <i>My preference is to list initially by auction starting at the minimum price I'd like to get, then once more with slightly lower price if no sale the first time. After a couple times through auction, switch it to buy-it-now.

    For items that are unusually rare/obscure/1-of-1, etc., it is often wisest to list with a high buy-it-now or best offer and field offers when you otherwise have no real information to go by when attempting to establish list price. >>




    I wish I had this kind of time.
    Collecting PSA 9's from 1970-1977. Raw 9's from 72-77. Raw 10's from '78-'83.
    Collecting Unopened from '72-'83; mostly BBCE certified boxes/cases/racks.
    Prefer to buy in bulk.
  • I like using the auction format when I know for certain that the item is sought after and will get multiple bids. It doesn't have to be a 1/1 or low pop. Just something that is in demand. For example, I found a couple of nice vintage basketball lots on Craigslist and made a favorable deal. Listed them as a 99 cent auction with a Sunday night end time and was very happy with how it turned out.

    But like others have said, if it's a common item, set it at Fixed Price for 30 days and let it ride until it's time to relist, then do it again. The guy who is willing to pay $10 for that item might see it this month or he might see it in January. Too much risk to put it up as an auction for one week.
  • MULLINS5MULLINS5 Posts: 4,517 ✭✭✭
    BIN always.

    I know it's a different market than cards, but in antiquarian books the auction price is considered a wholesale value.
  • mtcardsmtcards Posts: 3,340 ✭✭✭
    Most of my items are BIN/BO because auctions for almost everything but the top cards go for far less at auction. One pet peeve of mine is when a card I have is averaging $80 over the past year and then one auction goes for $50 or so, it invariably happens that my next BIN offer will include the phrase "Last one went for $50.....cant pay more than that"
    IT IS ALWAYS CHEAPER TO NOT SELL ON EBAY
  • jsanzjsanz Posts: 250 ✭✭
    I feel like the buyers are always complaining about BIN prices being too high. I'm the same way. I hope they realize that the items with a low BIN price don't last long so most of us never see them. For all of the complainers there is somebody out there who is happy with the BIN because they grabbed it first.
    Love those 70's - early 80's packs and boxes...send me a message if you are selling because I am buying
  • 80sOPC80sOPC Posts: 1,372 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Most of my items are BIN/BO because auctions for almost everything but the top cards go for far less at auction. One pet peeve of mine is when a card I have is averaging $80 over the past year and then one auction goes for $50 or so, it invariably happens that my next BIN offer will include the phrase "Last one went for $50.....cant pay more than that" >>



    I sell modern hockey and lots of guys that rip modern need to sell their previous rip to pay for the next one. Unfortunately that means that there is always someone willing to give their cards away so they can buy their next case. For that reason, I sit on BIN's waiting for the buyer that wants it now, and is willing to pay 15 bucks for a card that might have sold at auction for 3 bucks a few months prior.


  • << <i>I feel like the buyers are always complaining about BIN prices being too high. I'm the same way. I hope they realize that the items with a low BIN price don't last long so most of us never see them. For all of the complainers there is somebody out there who is happy with the BIN because they grabbed it first. >>



    Don't forget there are also those who complain when their cards sell for too little.
  • pheldaphelda Posts: 207 ✭✭✭
    Thanks for all of the input and opinions on this. I think I will continue to list fixed price format at a reasonable price for mid to low level stuff and "let it ride" on anything over a $100 threshold. Auctions to me right now for stuff under $100 is a charity. Did an auction for the first time in years just as a test case. 10 cards, nothing spectacular but FMV was around $20-$30 for the lot. Cards you would expect to pay $1-$5 a piece for at a card show. The ten card lot sold for $1.50. Cost more to ship in a bubble mailer, so I basically paid someone to take my cards from me. Listed the same cards individually and they sell for $4.00 each. Small sample of course, but it reconfirms my thoughts and the viewpoint of others.
  • miwlvrnmiwlvrn Posts: 4,264 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Thanks for all of the input and opinions on this. I think I will continue to list fixed price format at a reasonable price for mid to low level stuff and "let it ride" on anything over a $100 threshold. Auctions to me right now for stuff under $100 is a charity. Did an auction for the first time in years just as a test case. 10 cards, nothing spectacular but FMV was around $20-$30 for the lot. Cards you would expect to pay $1-$5 a piece for at a card show. The ten card lot sold for $1.50. Cost more to ship in a bubble mailer, so I basically paid someone to take my cards from me. Listed the same cards individually and they sell for $4.00 each. Small sample of course, but it reconfirms my thoughts and the viewpoint of others. >>



    You could easily have started your auction with a minimum starting price that was at or near what you wanted for those cards instead of starting as low as you did.

  • Stone193Stone193 Posts: 24,420 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Recently I overbid on something since I was "live" with it - if I had set a snipe? I would've bid 1/3 less.

    I like BINs if I think the price is fair - I like sniping on auctions to keep an item under control.

    If any item is extremely scarce? I'm always ready to sell all of my kidneys. image
    Mike
  • As an ebay seller, I always use BIN. When I use auction because of an ebay promotion, my starting price is the same as my BIN prices. Assuming you can wait, you just do better that way. I only use auction when starting at 99 cents for items that I need to sell to turnover inventory, i.e, basically junk/clearance items. You can also use auction when you need the funds and can't wait for your BIN items to sell, but then it's almost always better to just consign the items to PWCC or similar consignment shop.
  • lawnmowermanlawnmowerman Posts: 19,477 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i> I'm always ready to sell all of my kidneys. image >>




    image
  • image
    All your money won't another minute buy.
  • Stone193Stone193 Posts: 24,420 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Good one Doc image >>

    You too Matt. Funny
    Mike
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