Market value of FB Mercury Dime vs non FB???

Proofmorgan

I am putting together a high end 1943 mint set that I kind of just got hooked on and have no real rhyme or reason as to why I'm competing it except that I picked up a couple nice coins in the year and couldn't stop myself. Unfortunately the top set has an average grade of about 68, which would put the top spot in the 6 figure range. I'm collecting for the nicest eye appeal set, regardless of what the set registry points end up being.

Anyways,

I'm completing the dime section of the set and I've found something I find rather crazy. My prettiest coin is a MS67+ and is prettier than most seen, but only cost me $200. It it was FB, it would cost 10x that. Same for my 1943 s it's MS68 and very attractive, if it was FB it would cost about $5000 vs $500.

Is the band on the torch being well defined really worth 10x the price with nothing else considered?

You really get hammered on registry points if it's not full band as well...

I've completed the quarters and cents, but the same goes for the Full Steps when I take on the remaining nickels

What do you guys think? The market has spoken, but I'm not buying...

oih82w8

Supply & Demand pretty much sums it up. Philadelphia coinage has the tendency of being more sharply struck than the other branch mints.

coinbuf

It's mostly a registry thing, if FB coins were not given such big point premiums then thay would not be so sought after and thus not command a big price. Take away the registry and over time the prices for FB would decrease.

keyman64

Is it worth it? My answer is yes but each person needs to make the decision for themselves.

By the way...torches are on Roosevelt Dimes. Fasces exist on Mercury Dimes.

DIMEMAN does not care about Full Split Bands. I do.

Here is how you decide for yourself, I think.
If you care about the design and ENJOY IT AS THE DESIGNER INTENDED...then Full Bands should matter to you.
If you don't care for/about the design that much and don't want the fully struck coins because of the cost then it is simple, don't go that route.
If you are just trying to fill holes, don't bother with FB.
If it really is a financial burden, then I can respect that...don't go the FB direction. (I have been in this position a few times)...BUT you can
find some non-FB examples that have 50-80% full bands with patience and maybe locate that happy medium of saving a ton of cash but
still having respect for the design as the designer intended.

I have even had a 1931-D in 67FB and a 31-S DDO FS-101 in 66FB (sold it not long ago for $5K so I understand the cost of the bands).

Because I love Mercs so much, I would enjoy seeing your set for sure. I wish you all the best in your quest, no matter the direction you choose.

As a side note, I went to a coin shop today and picked up an AWESOME 1943 MERC TONER in a PCGS Rattler holder. I just photographed it
and will post it tonight.

DIMEMAN

My answer is why pay $5000 for a coin that doesn't look any better (can actually look worse) than a $500 coin!

I actually care more about the hair detail on the obverse more than the bands.

DIMEMAN

Also, it kind of irritates me when "if you like the design" is brought up!

The design is all there......it's a matter of micro ( to the billionth power) difference of the bands....it is soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo minor!

lasvegasteddy

if this post had a poll....
i'd be voting the full band as my preference

Bochiman

If you can gamble money away, and you like to have top numbers, then FB even when nicer look non-FB are available.
It's a registry thing.

I like FB but funds are not limitless for me, so if I find a nicer non-FB, I like toned, and it is multitudes less, then I usually buy it instead.