When to grade or authenticate only?
MrNearMint
Posts: 1,209 ✭✭✭
So I just bought an 86-87 fleer Jordan rc off craigslist (paid a smidge too much but can still make a small profit) and I have a question about if I should have it graded or just authenticated.
The card is in rough shape, some stains, corner crease, four dinged corners but centering is probably "mint" or "near mint-mint+". I'm planning on having it graded by BGS and think it will grade between 3-4. Would it be better (more profitable) to have it numerically graded because of the centering or just slab as authentic because of the low overall grade?
The card is in rough shape, some stains, corner crease, four dinged corners but centering is probably "mint" or "near mint-mint+". I'm planning on having it graded by BGS and think it will grade between 3-4. Would it be better (more profitable) to have it numerically graded because of the centering or just slab as authentic because of the low overall grade?
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Comments
Anyone?
Chirp chirp
<< <i>Numerical grade if > 2. >>
I agree with this. Also, to Kyle's point an 8 or 9 subgrade on centering would look good for the sale of the card.
<< <i>I would probably go with a number grade more to show it hasn't been altered. If you can get 8 or 9 in a listing title legitimately, it will probably get more eyes on it as well. >>
If it has been altered, the flip will indicate so even if it is an Authentic rather than numerical grade. Cards labeled as Authentic will, if necessary, contain a qualifier such as Trimmed, Recolored, or Altered.