Double Mint set OGP and Flat Pack Proof set OGP - What parts of the OGP causes the toning on these c
SanctionII
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Double Mint Sets from 1947-1958 were issued by the mint in cardboard holders with thin colored paper on both sides of the cardboard holder. The paper covered cardboard holder was placed into a yellow paper inner envelope. This inner envelope was in turn placed inside a yellow paper outer envelope that had printing and postage on it.
Flat pack proof sets from 1955-1964 were issued by the mint in plastic mint cello (which has been very durable through the years but not perfect as it can tear, crack or be damaged to the point where it is not air tight). The mint cello was placed in between two pieces of thin cardboard. A piece of colored paper containing printed information was added to the mint cello and two pieces of cardboard. All were placed into an outer yellow paper envelope.
These constitute the components of the OGP for these sets.
The coins in the double mint sets would make contact with the cardboard holder and the thin colored paper on both sides of the holder. The toning imparted on these coins resulted (at least in part) from contact with the cardboard holder and with the thin colored papers.
The coins in the flat pack OGP would most often not tone as long as the mint cello remained intact. However this is not always the case, for in some proof sets you will find some or all of the coins toned to one degree or another. Some of the toning covers the entire coin. Some of the toning is crescent. So of the toning is multi colored. Some of the toning is eye appealing and some is ugly.
With the above intro, here is my questions:
To what extent do each of the separate components of an OGP Double Mint Set or a flat pack proof set contribute to the toning that we see on these MS and PF coins?.
Are all of these components reactive, or are some (i.e. the mint cello) inert, stable and non reactive?
For the Double Mint sets the thin colored paper on both sides of the cardboard are reactive (containing sulfur?) and cause toning. How about the inner yellow envelope and the outer yellow mailing envelope?
For flat pack proof sets are the two pieces of thin cardboard, the colored paper insert and/or the yellow envelope inert or reactive?
This is an obscure topic but my inquiring mind wants to learn more about the sources of toning for these coins
Flat pack proof sets from 1955-1964 were issued by the mint in plastic mint cello (which has been very durable through the years but not perfect as it can tear, crack or be damaged to the point where it is not air tight). The mint cello was placed in between two pieces of thin cardboard. A piece of colored paper containing printed information was added to the mint cello and two pieces of cardboard. All were placed into an outer yellow paper envelope.
These constitute the components of the OGP for these sets.
The coins in the double mint sets would make contact with the cardboard holder and the thin colored paper on both sides of the holder. The toning imparted on these coins resulted (at least in part) from contact with the cardboard holder and with the thin colored papers.
The coins in the flat pack OGP would most often not tone as long as the mint cello remained intact. However this is not always the case, for in some proof sets you will find some or all of the coins toned to one degree or another. Some of the toning covers the entire coin. Some of the toning is crescent. So of the toning is multi colored. Some of the toning is eye appealing and some is ugly.
With the above intro, here is my questions:
To what extent do each of the separate components of an OGP Double Mint Set or a flat pack proof set contribute to the toning that we see on these MS and PF coins?.
Are all of these components reactive, or are some (i.e. the mint cello) inert, stable and non reactive?
For the Double Mint sets the thin colored paper on both sides of the cardboard are reactive (containing sulfur?) and cause toning. How about the inner yellow envelope and the outer yellow mailing envelope?
For flat pack proof sets are the two pieces of thin cardboard, the colored paper insert and/or the yellow envelope inert or reactive?
This is an obscure topic but my inquiring mind wants to learn more about the sources of toning for these coins
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Comments
In 1947 most of them weren't in double packs, they were in little government bags, similar to the mint sealed bags in the 1940's, 50's, and 60's. These bags contained sulfur which caused toning on both sides of the coin.
In reference to toning in double pack mint sets which only started in 1948, very light toning will appear on the coin that is in contact with the tissue. Toning on the side that is touching the bottom of the cardboard is deeply toned, as the bottom side has much more sulfur then the top side.
For flat pack proof sets there's no reactive agent in the cello envelope, therefore there can't be any toning. The only way there can be toning on these coins is either they were removed from the cello and placed in a 2x2 Manila envelope, or if there was a hole in the cello which allowed the coins to be in contact with the sulfur in the packaging in the envelope and the cardboard.
<< <i>Toning is a fascinating topic which can help someone tell the difference between artificial and natural toning. >>
Toning can help tell the difference between 2 types of toning?
Toning is either AT or NT (or QT I guess one could say), but toning doesn't help distinguish between the 2. The way something is toned can help. The interpretation of the toning can help.
Just that first sentence I quoted is kind of confusing and I am thinking something was left out.....
I've been told I tolerate fools poorly...that may explain things if I have a problem with you. Current ebay items - Nothing at the moment
<< <i>
<< <i>Toning is a fascinating topic which can help someone tell the difference between artificial and natural toning. >>
Toning can help tell the difference between 2 types of toning?
Toning is either AT or NT (or QT I guess one could say), but toning doesn't help distinguish between the 2. The way something is toned can help. The interpretation of the toning can help.
Just that first sentence I quoted is kind of confusing and I am thinking something was left out..... >>
What I meant was, that if you know how coins are toned you can tell if it's real or not. For example, if I see a coin from a double pack mint set with perfect peripheral toning on both sides, then I know it's artificial. Or if I see a coin that's less then 25 years old with vivid colors then I also know that it's fake, since it takes at least that long with exposure to sulfur for that to happen.