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When describing a raw card as the seller, do you use PSA standards?

I know that PSA is respected as the standard bearer when it comes to graded cards by many hobbyists. However, when you are selling a RAW card on Ebay with a nice scan(s), do you put a condition in your listing as well (i.e Good, Excellent) ? My concern about doing this myself is that PSA's terminology and definition may not be understood by all. For example, just like the old days in the hobby, a buyer may expect that a "good" card should arrive without any creases. Whereas "good" according to PSA can have several creases. Should I just believe that PSA's grading categories are good enough for people to understand, and not worry about getting any dings for "item not as advertised"? Or do I just stop describing the condition in the listing and simply let the scans do the talking? Thanks, Tom

Comments

  • LarkinCollectorLarkinCollector Posts: 8,975 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Personally, I don't include a grade with raw cards and let the scans do the talking. If there is anything not obvious from the scans (i.e. surface issues), I do describe that portion. Centering, edges, and corners should be apparent with a high quality scan (600-800dpi scan of 9 cards at a time when chopped into individual listings usually nears the max eBay filesize).
  • DanBessetteDanBessette Posts: 6,421 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Personally, I don't include a grade with raw cards and let the scans do the talking. If there is anything not obvious from the scans (i.e. surface issues), I do describe that portion. Centering, edges, and corners should be apparent with a high quality scan (600-800dpi scan) >>



    This.
  • RyanAdmirerRyanAdmirer Posts: 632 ✭✭
    I agree with the first couple of guys. Find a good scanner and simply load the cards. Keeps opinions out of it. If you start "grading" your own cards you'll end up with complainers or scammers trying to get some of their money back and still hold onto the cards. It's not worth it.
    I'm a big Nolan Ryan fan OK???!!!
  • sportscardstopsportscardstop Posts: 530 ✭✭✭
    I will typically put a condition in my listings. I'm confident in my ability to grade a card. If a card is a at solid 5 with an outside shot at a 6, I'd just put the condition as EX.

    But I'm fine with a just a scan as long as you point out small wrinkles that can not be seen or anything hidden in the scan. However, when someone uses the old "I'm not a professional grader, see scan for condition", I always worry about the seller hiding something and sometimes stay away from that auction.


  • << <i>Personally, I don't include a grade with raw cards and let the scans do the talking. If there is anything not obvious from the scans (i.e. surface issues), I do describe that portion. Centering, edges, and corners should be apparent with a high quality scan (600-800dpi scan of 9 cards at a time when chopped into individual listings usually nears the max eBay filesize). >>



    This.

    Otherwise make it very clear in your description that you are not a professional grader and that a potential buyer should use the photo to ultimately decide for themself about the condition of the card. Though I would shy away from using grades as collectors can be ever so finicky.
  • MULLINS5MULLINS5 Posts: 4,517 ✭✭✭
    I do what Larkincollector does for raw, let the picture do the talking. However, the only time I will actually put a "grade" in the listing is if I know for certain what PSA may grade the card as (example, pinhole/paperloss Authentic to Poor) or if I'm selling a set I may describe it as from one range to another (ex-mt to nm) and always grade a notch lower than what if actually there.
  • MULLINS5MULLINS5 Posts: 4,517 ✭✭✭
    ...and as far as terminology.....antiquarian books use the following: As New, Fine, Near Fine, Very Good, Good, Fair, Poor. When assigning a grade to a book it is extremely important to mention the defects that may not be present in the pictures. With cards, if someone uses "Good" then they should follow that up with why the card is good. If it's corner wear....may not be necessary to say so in the listing, but if it's a wrinkle or crease it should accompany the "Grade" listed.

    ~or, just don't assign a grade and let the scans do the talking.
  • swish54swish54 Posts: 707 ✭✭✭✭
    I agree with the others. If you try "grading" your cards, you're asking for trouble. The whole purpose for having a third party grader is to take each individuals opinion out of it because what someone says is EX, someone else might think otherwise. If there's a major flaw that can't be seen by the scans, I'd point that out.
  • I always give a description. Granted I'm selling mostly lots from all the junk wax I rip so it is really easy since the cards are typically sharp anyways. I've always found it interesting when I say a card is NM and it sells raw for mint price.
  • dennis07dennis07 Posts: 1,842 ✭✭✭
    As a buyer I need to see at least "no creases" and a good scan that I can enlarge. If it is a higher dollar card a scan of the back is important to me.
    Collecting 1970 Topps baseball
  • LarkinCollectorLarkinCollector Posts: 8,975 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>If it is a higher dollar card a scan of the back is important to me. >>


    +1, and as a seller I always provide a back scan, regardless of dollar value.
  • WinPitcherWinPitcher Posts: 27,726 ✭✭✭
    I generally do something along these lines;

    1966 Topps Mantle PSA 8????????????????????



    Or if I really am in a spamming mood;

    1966 Topps Mantle PSA, BVG, SGC, ABC GEM !!!!!!!!

    LQQK


    image
    Good for you.
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