Autographed Cards

JimMeant

Hey All, I have a question regarding autographed vintage. I'll give you an example, say you are getting a 1968 topps bench rookie signed in person and it is a nice eye appeal PSA 5 or 5.5 crack out, what do you do after the signing?

Do you:
A. Slab it blue flip auto only?
B. Slab it red flip with card graded? (Ex PSA 5.5 with Auto)
C. Slab it red flip Authentic?

I'm interested to hear from you collectors of autographed vintage and autographed rookie cards. What would carry the most value if I ever needed to sell, etc..

Thanks for your feedback!

Ironmanfan

red flip marked as authentic (due to it being a HOF Rookie Card)

IMF

charrigan

Speaking generally ...

Blue flip is useful for signed cards where the card value and authenticity are not in question. I.e. an important autograph, but on a junk wax card. No one thinks the card could possibly be fake, etc. You save some bucks by avoiding the card authentication fee.

Red flip authentic is useful for signed cards where the card authenticity is in question, but the card grade itself would not add to value or perhaps may even detract from it. For example, a totally wrecked Bobby Orr rookie. It might be better in an "authentic" slab than a "PSA 1 - Poor" slab.

Red flip with grade is for cards where the card authenticity is in question and the card grade will add to value. I am not sure whether that is the case for the card you are discussing, but I would guess that it would be most appropriate here. Red flip with grade signed cards are quite popular and seem to be growing more so constantly. If 5.5 for a Bench rookie is much more expensive than one that is VG, I would go this route. Especially because there is no cost difference on PSA's end between this service and red flip authentic only.

Dboneesq

<< <i>red flip marked as authentic (due to it being a HOF Rookie Card)...IMF >>


+1. IMO, if the card has value I would go Red Flip authentic so a potential buyer knows that the card is authentic. "Value" is probably subjective, but if I had that Bench card it would fit this category.

eagles33

i would go red flip with the grade. If it looks like a 5 but it is in a "authentic" holder i would question why it didnt get a # grade. was it trimmed or recolored ect.. that might keep it from getting a # grade. Thats just my opinion..

VitoCo1972

I echo Casey and Eagles points. If it's older than 1980 and will grade more than a 4-5, Red Flip with grade is absolutely the way to go. If it were a PSA 2-3, an "Authentic" one would be about the same price. But with 5 or over, a premium for the card grade starts to factor in. Now, if it's past 1980, the criteria would be different; you'd want to go authentic unless the card will grade at least a 7-8. With post 2000 stuff, that criteria becomes a 9 minimum.

DanBessette

I agree with Casey and eagles. Vito's more specific criteria are spot on as well.

lmf

When getting autographed cards authenticated , graded and slabbed. The first thing to think about is how nice of a card is it and then added value. Second how rare is the card in high grade autographed ,third is it a card that others need red flipped with a grade to add to a registry. For example if the card is vintage hof rookie auto, I'd prefer red flip with a grade over a blue flip that just authenticates the auto, for a number of reasons , blue flip card could be fake damaged low grade altered etc, also for rarity and value a red flip with a grade will allow you to look it up on the pop report signifying the true value and rarity blue flips don't go on the pop report.also if it's a highly collectable set red flip grades are how the point value is given for the registry so the higher the grade on the card the faster you climb up. Don't forget about inscriptions the rarer the inscription can really make a difference in value,At this point collectors figured out creating your own rare collectable is way better then trying to rip packs for there buy backs, redemptions and so on , lastly when a hof dies and can't sign anything anymore I'd like to be the guy with the highest graded rookie auto because that will be a truly rare and valuable piece.

jmlabonner

<< <i>Speaking generally ...

Blue flip is useful for signed cards where the card value and authenticity are not in question. I.e. an important autograph, but on a junk wax card. No one thinks the card could possibly be fake, etc. You save some bucks by avoiding the card authentication fee.

Red flip authentic is useful for signed cards where the card authenticity is in question, but the card grade itself would not add to value or perhaps may even detract from it. For example, a totally wrecked Bobby Orr rookie. It might be better in an "authentic" slab than a "PSA 1 - Poor" slab.

Red flip with grade is for cards where the card authenticity is in question and the card grade will add to value. I am not sure whether that is the case for the card you are discussing, but I would guess that it would be most appropriate here. Red flip with grade signed cards are quite popular and seem to be growing more so constantly. If 5.5 for a Bench rookie is much more expensive than one that is VG, I would go this route. Especially because there is no cost difference on PSA's end between this service and red flip authentic only. >>



Now this is some information that helps me out! Dumbs down the differences for me

thenavarro

Red flip with card grade, no question


I sell a lot now and the first question that 90% of potential buyers want to know on my red flip authentics is why it doesn't have a number grade. They seem incredulous that any dumb sap would have requested authentic like I did for the first couple of hundred autographed cards I had done. I get tired of telling them I was just a dumb sap and there is nothing wrong with the card because half the time they don't believe you anyway.


Mike