Anyone have success submitting '71 Topps looking for 9's?

I'm just wondering how tough they are to achieve. Sometimes I see raw cards on eBay that look like they could be 8's or 9's but there is usually a pretty big price difference.
Daniel
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Don't waste your time and fees listing on ebay before getting in touch me by PM or at gregmo32@aol.com !
A 2.822% chance of a PSA 9 and a 0.0067% chance of a PSA 10.
Dang these are tough.
Here are the results of my 71 submissions over the years. I only submit 71's that I think would receive an 8 or better.
Grade Cards Percent
PSA 8 269 47%
PSA 7 201 35%
PSA 7.5 42 7%
Not graded 21 4%
PSA 6 14 2%
PSA 8.5 13 2%
PSA 9 8 1%
PSA 5 2 0%
PSA 6.5 2 0%
Total Submitted 572 100%
Fortunately, two of my nines sold for $1000+
These were the best three I had found in over 20 years collecting Killebrew.
Decided to give up on submitting '71's
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TheClockworkAngelCollection
<< <i>You guys are making me rethink submitting the 30-35 1971s I have set aside for this month. >>
Depending on the cards, it may still be worth submitting. Some 8's still fetch crazy numbers. At the CC pricing specials, it's not a bad investment
TheClockworkAngelCollection
Instagram: mattyc_collection
But it was the first time I got a 9 from this set in over three years, and 728 is actually one of the easier high numbers to find in 9.
Incredibly difficult to find 9-quality raw cards from this year.
You have a much better chance of buying well centered 8s and reviewing
<< <i>The price jump from 7 to 8 to 9 when it comes to 1971 Topps is so great, yet is the card really that much better? Thousands of dollars better? It seems so illogical, to pay a big sum for such a small increase in card quality. The 71s are so sensitive and it is so easy for the tiniest thing to be flagged to knock them down, that I can justify the price jump from, say, the quality of a 4 to that of a 7 or even 8, but not from an 8 to a 9. The nicest 7s are a really great value, from the collector buying side. For a subber/seller a 9 in this set is a real jackpot. >>
It really comes down to the strength of a card. There are 8s that only reveal a small chip at the edge or corner under magnification that drops it from a 9. Then there are 8s that look dog ugly with massive chipping and/or noticeable wear on a corner or two. The nicer 7s and 8s can be good value but many people see them as such and therefore those examples are likely to sell for above VCP if not well above VCP. I will say if there is a set where it pays to invest for higher grades, it's this one. The black reveals flaws more than any other issue. Corner wear on a white bordered card may only be noticeable under bright light and magnification but that's usually not the case with 71s.
<< <i>The price jump from 7 to 8 to 9 when it comes to 1971 Topps is so great, yet is the card really that much better?
It really comes down to the strength of a card. There are 8s that only reveal a small chip at the edge or corner under magnification that drops it from a 9. Then there are 8s that look dog ugly with massive chipping and/or noticeable wear on a corner or two. The nicer 7s and 8s can be good value but many people see them as such and therefore those examples are likely to sell for above VCP if not well above VCP. >>
Amen! 8 is really the grade where a lot can happen. I have some really beautiful 8s, and have passed on some butt-ugly ones with corner wear, tilt, horrible centering, etc. It's a real luxury to be able to cherry pick 8s from sets or large groups (as I was fortunate enough to be able to do with your extra set years ago). I find it a very enjoyable challenge to stick mostly to 8s while holding out for nice examples. Of course, I'll likely never finish the set, as I feel like I've been hovering around 65-75 % for years.