Swung and missed on this one. Oh well. I should have asked for opinions earlier. I didnt ask until a few hours before the auction was over and didnt give much time for feedback so i threw in a low snipe and won unfortunately. Atleast i know what to look for now. The 2 redflags are the gap on the back between the last line of text and bottom of the card.. also the red banner usually bleeds through to the back. I'm sure there are cases where the card is real and there is a large gap or a red banner.. but i would proceed with caution if that were the case. live and learn
Line # Item # Cert # Grade Description Type 2 1 N4: QUESTIONABLE AUTHENTICITY 1933 Sport Kings 6 Jim Thorpe Football Card
That is true. You have 180 days for a SNAD case through PayPal. November 2014 Update.
"We’re increasing the time for buyers to file a merchandise dispute (Item Not Received and Significantly Not as Described) from 45 days to 180 days. All references in the User Agreement to “Opening a Dispute within 45 days” have been updated to reflect “Opening a Dispute within 180 days.” The Sections these changes appear include the Introduction, 3.15, 13.2 and 13.5."
I was going to ask... is it worth trying to return it since its been so long?... granted I was sold a fake card.. but i didnt find out it was fake until 3 months later. I just sent a messege to the seller telling him i just found out from PSA that the card is not authentic and i understand its been 3 months but could i return it. Hopefully being polite will pay off and we can work something out. if not atleast i can go the paypal route
I think their response will be based on whether they knew it was fake or not. If they knew it was fake, you will have an immediate "no way" or an "I dont trust PSA" response. If they honestly didnt know, you will probably get a polite refund offer. Of course, that isnt necessarily a 100% guarantee, but those that get caught are the most defensive
<< <i>Hopefully being polite will pay off and we can work something out. If not at least i can go the paypal route >>
Best of luck. Any offer from the seller short of a 100% refund and I would go the Paypal route. Let us know how you do.
STAY HEALTHY!
Doug
Liquidating my collection for the 3rd and final time. Time for others to enjoy what I have enjoyed over the last several decades. Money could be put to better use.
Ill see if I get a response or not. If I don't hear anything tomorrow then I'll just go the PayPal route. If the seller is cordial I'll be happy to work with him since it was so long.
Well i never heard back from the seller so i opened a paypal case. They decided in my favor and reversed the funds once the tracking showed that the card was returned. As a buyer i'm happy i was able to get my money back. I was willing to work with the seller since the card was purchased in april but since he never got back to me i ended up getting a full refund from paypal. This is a little bit concerning as a seller though. I don't sell many things on ebay and when i do they are usually graded. What is stopping scumbag buyer from switching raw cards and claiming they were fake?
<< <i>What is stopping scumbag buyer from switching raw cards and claiming they were fake? >>
Speaking only from personal experience, which is similar to this but not exactly the same, in disputed but ultimately unresolvable cases (ex: buyer claims fake, seller claims switched card) eBay/PayPal will eat the cost and issue a double refund. They give the buyer back their money but don't deduct from the seller. I'm assuming that they keep some sort of record and will stop this if it becomes a pattern. If it is just a one-off scammer occurrence, you won't build up a pattern and it won't be a long-term issue. To get this type of resolution, you usually need to call and defend yourself to eBay CS on the phone.
I won a SGC 10 Thorpe yesterday. There is paper loss on the back but I think it presents well for a 1. I'll prob cross it over to psa at some point to match the rest of the collection. Glad to finally cross this one off the list.
Originally posted by: eagles33 I won a SGC 10 Thorpe yesterday. There is paper loss on the back but I think it presents well for a 1. I'll prob cross it over to psa at some point to match the rest of the collection. Glad to finally cross this one off the list.
Do you have a Thorpe RC in your collection yet? I had made a bid for a 1912 Olympiska Spelens Stockholm-Brefkort Thorpe about a year or so ago but was outbid. Wondering if you won that one.
I was planning on using this as his football rookie because I thought the earlier cards were out of my price range. I'm not familiar with the 1912 card. What ballpark does it sell for usually?
Originally posted by: eagles33 I was planning on using this as his football rookie because I thought the earlier cards were out of my price range. I'm not familiar with the 1912 card. What ballpark does it sell for usually?
I wish I could remember but the auction was too long ago and I don't have info from it in my old email records. I'd guess I probably set a bid somewhere in the $300's but I know I did not end up the underbidder as I was beat by multiple people.
I just looked into that one.. its postcard so I didn't really ever try to get it. I think he has a 1914 or 1916 that sells for 5 figures so decided to settle for the 1933.
Well this card is becoming a challenge... 0 for 2 now. Psa will only slab this as authentic because of the paper loss. I tried crossing it over twice. I have several slabbed cards with worse paper loss. I didn't even know that partial paper loss could keep a card from getting a 1. I'm debating on cracking and resubbing or just selling and buying one already slabbed by psa.
You mean the sellers are the same? They have different eBay names and one bad 700 feedback while the other has over 7k. What makes you say they are the same?
Comments
Line # Item # Cert # Grade Description Type
2 1 N4: QUESTIONABLE AUTHENTICITY 1933 Sport Kings 6 Jim Thorpe Football Card
"We’re increasing the time for buyers to file a merchandise dispute (Item Not Received and Significantly Not as Described) from 45 days to 180 days. All references in the User Agreement to “Opening a Dispute within 45 days” have been updated to reflect “Opening a Dispute within 180 days.” The Sections these changes appear include the Introduction, 3.15, 13.2 and 13.5."
Link
<< <i>Hopefully being polite will pay off and we can work something out. If not at least i can go the paypal route >>
Best of luck. Any offer from the seller short of a 100% refund and I would go the Paypal route. Let us know how you do.
Doug
Liquidating my collection for the 3rd and final time. Time for others to enjoy what I have enjoyed over the last several decades. Money could be put to better use.
<< <i>What is stopping scumbag buyer from switching raw cards and claiming they were fake? >>
Speaking only from personal experience, which is similar to this but not exactly the same, in disputed but ultimately unresolvable cases (ex: buyer claims fake, seller claims switched card) eBay/PayPal will eat the cost and issue a double refund. They give the buyer back their money but don't deduct from the seller. I'm assuming that they keep some sort of record and will stop this if it becomes a pattern. If it is just a one-off scammer occurrence, you won't build up a pattern and it won't be a long-term issue. To get this type of resolution, you usually need to call and defend yourself to eBay CS on the phone.
I won a SGC 10 Thorpe yesterday. There is paper loss on the back but I think it presents well for a 1. I'll prob cross it over to psa at some point to match the rest of the collection. Glad to finally cross this one off the list.
Do you have a Thorpe RC in your collection yet? I had made a bid for a 1912 Olympiska Spelens Stockholm-Brefkort Thorpe about a year or so ago but was outbid. Wondering if you won that one.
I was planning on using this as his football rookie because I thought the earlier cards were out of my price range. I'm not familiar with the 1912 card. What ballpark does it sell for usually?
I wish I could remember but the auction was too long ago and I don't have info from it in my old email records. I'd guess I probably set a bid somewhere in the $300's but I know I did not end up the underbidder as I was beat by multiple people.
I took a flyer on this. Score or did I buy another fake?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/272440785795
It's the same buyer you bought that first card from.
You mean the sellers are the same? They have different eBay names and one bad 700 feedback while the other has over 7k. What makes you say they are the same?