You need thick skin .....
2Clueless2
Posts: 26
... to run a no reserve auction for anything over $100 starting at a dollar. It used to be back in the day, that you would get bids from multiple viewers throughout the duration of the auction. Not so anymore. I guess with all the snipe apps, more sophisticated bidders, and the chance at a lower final number, the bids don't happen until the last 10 minutes.
Just auctioned off a 1971 lot of 350 cards... good stuff, vending quality. # 321670583298 = Sorry not link savvy. Had 88 views, 26 followers and 18 bids. Not bad. But, the bulk of the action came in the last hour. I started this off at $1.00 so I figured to get early action. Negative. I hate fishing with a high reserve, and really was hoping for $150 range, but was OK with wherever it ended. Anyone else noticed a more educated buyer trend?
TMc
Just auctioned off a 1971 lot of 350 cards... good stuff, vending quality. # 321670583298 = Sorry not link savvy. Had 88 views, 26 followers and 18 bids. Not bad. But, the bulk of the action came in the last hour. I started this off at $1.00 so I figured to get early action. Negative. I hate fishing with a high reserve, and really was hoping for $150 range, but was OK with wherever it ended. Anyone else noticed a more educated buyer trend?
TMc
0
Comments
Do a search on completed and sold items. Almost without exception, auctions are lower than with a fixed price listing.....and by a large margin. (Large margin meaning price)
Shane
<< <i>What's the strategy for BIN for those that don't sell much on ebay? Keep your set price for a week and lower it or leave it alone? Thanks >>
I like to use the "or Best Offer" function on my BIN listings and just set my BIN a bit higher than the amount I'd take for it. You will often get a lot of really low offers, but when someone makes a reasonable starting offer we can often find middle ground around what I want for the card.
honestly, i don't even know what a good price would be for 350 1971 cards; however, if there weren't any stars then you're just gambling on whether someone wants to build a set or is chasing for high grade raw to submit
i imagine the price per card on something like that is incredibly volatile, so the number of potential people following you as a seller could have a huge impact on something like that
i list things with Buy It Now and accept offers, i very rarely reduce the price of the buy it now unless there's a listing special or something that i'm trying to capitalize on
a week for a price reduction even on a fixed price? not unless you priced it wrong in the first place.
<< <i>ebay needs to go to a system where it extends the auction for one minute after each bid. >>
Sellers would love that, LOL!
Though with almost everyone sniping now anyway, who will be at the computer to bid again in those 60 seconds?
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
Genius
I wonder if you could then enter a 2nd snipe at the time of your first snipe............
If so does 2nd snipe become your first true offer after a lower than normal bid ???
If the extended minute was only open to people who had bid before similar to many AH
rules but could only be entered manually w/o a snipe service. Then the truly bidders who really
want the item badly are bidding.
1948-76 Topps FB Sets
FB & BB HOF Player sets
1948-1993 NY Yankee Team Sets
Ebay Store:
Probstein123
phone: 973 747 6304
email: rickprobstein1@gmail.com
Probstein123 is actively accepting CONSIGNMENTS !!
1975 Topps Registry Set "Scott's 75 Topps Set"
<< <i>ebay needs to go to a system where it extends the auction for one minute after each bid. >>
Agree 1000%, they need to take the "snipe effect" out of the system. You would have thought ebay would have figured it out since I think it would lead to more bids.....I think a minute might be a little to short, but 15 minutes from last bid would be ok. I think the seller wouldnt have an issue with it as every 15 minute extension would result in more money
<< <i>As a low volume seller, mainly just items from my personal collection that I have upgraded or just didn't fit my collecting focus now, I always do Buy it Now with NO OBO. I just look at current listings and recent sales and price my item fairly usually just above the recent sales but on the low end of the current listings. I have done very well with this strategy and really don't have many items that last more than 2 months. I rarely lower my listing price. Just price it fair and you will not have to. This strategy also helps reduce the number of low-ballers as they see its fair. >>
I agree 100%. I do the exact same thing. I check sold items and I check current listings and I price mine appropriately. If there is a bunch of items like mine, I will (almost without exception) beat the lowest price. If there are not any current listings, I check what sales have been in the past to estimate my price. If there is nothing to gauge value on, then you can ask what you want for it. It may not sell, but we do have that option. I currently have a very unique item for sale (pop 1) and I am asking S-T-U-P-I-D money for. I may not get it, but I am offering a best offer. I am shooting for the stars hoping to reach the moon.
Shane
You got me curious, what is the item?
<< <i>Frankhardy,
You got me curious, what is the item? >>
PM sent.
Shane