Collection of 50's and 70's cards...

tsalems1 · February 22, 2015 3:29AM

I have a collection on the way to me. It includes 1971-1977 OPC baseball. The majority is 1975 and from some pics, they look super nice.

This collection also includes many 1952-1954 Topps cards. Some top name Hall Of Famers included.

The problem i'm told is that with many of the 50's stuff, is that they were glued to a book of some sort.

I have talked to a couple people about how PSA would grade these but just want to get input from others as well.

How would PSA grade these? Looks like there may be just a little paper loss on some of these.

Does this knock them to PSA 1 or Authentic? How about cards that do not have paper loss but may have glue on the back - are these (ST) qualifiers even at the PSA 1 or 2 level?

Here are a few pics...

There are also some 1974 Wack Pack cards that look very nice

Stone193 · February 22, 2015 3:39AM

That's a nice array of cards Tom.

I'm no expert on grading. But, I was under the impression that paper loss pushed a card into the PSA 1 category. I'm sure the aficionados will chime in.

tsalems1 · February 22, 2015 3:41AM

<< That's a nice array of cards Tom.

I'm no expert on grading. But, I was under the impression that paper loss pushed a card into the PSA 1 category. I'm sure the aficionados will chime in. >>

Thanks Mike

vintagefun · February 22, 2015 3:45AM

Fun Haul Tom!

I thought paper loss knocked you to a high of 3.

I sent in a 48 Feller, well-centered, but worn corners, with a small but easily noticeable bit of paper loss on back (from I think tape)...it came back a straight 3.

Good Luck.
Jim

ReggieCleveland · February 22, 2015 4:34AM

To further muddy the waters, I was under the impression that the ceiling on paper loss was PSA 2.

On the bright side, I'm fairly certain one of the three of us is correct. So you have that going for you, which is nice.

tsalems1 · February 22, 2015 4:39AM

<< To further muddy the waters, I was under the impression that the ceiling on paper loss was PSA 2.

On the bright side, I'm fairly certain one of the three of us is correct. So you have that going for you, which is nice. >>

lol! I would agree that 1 of us is correct.

Big80s · February 22, 2015 5:07AM

If I may - i believe Arthur is correct. I think PSA 2 is the cap on a card with noticeable paper loss.

Great looking group of cards, though Tom! Those look like some sharp stacks of 75s!

Dboneesq · February 22, 2015 5:38AM

<< If I may - i believe Arthur is correct. I think PSA 2 is the cap on a card with noticeable paper loss. >>

+1. Good luck with the new purchase Tom.

miwlvrn · February 22, 2015 5:45AM

Hi Tom,

I have a whole lot of PSA 1, 1.5, and 2 cards that were removed from scrapbooks of various types, including pre-war stuff as well as modern items. All are self-subbed. The majority is obscure foreign stuff, which is why I send it in (condition-irrelevant items due to scarcity).

It is possible, though uncommon, to be able to get a 1.5 instead of a 1 for a card with paper loss on back. Sometimes a bit of paper loss can fall more under the category of a surface scratch in overall appearance than it does an actual peel-away portion, and that is where the distinction seems to be. There are a few examples you might find with a 2, but that is an extremely rare and lucky hit if you do.

If you have residue on back left over from the book, meaning some of the album's page is glued to the card, but there is not paper loss, you can pull a 1.5 or 2. Cards that have some glue residue on back but no paper loss and also no extra paper glued on can get a 2 or sometimes 2.5. None of these cards have had an ST qualifier, and I've got a sample size of around 100 or so to reference.

Hope this helps!

miwlvrn · February 22, 2015 5:49AM

My guess is that the Mays, Banks and Robinson you posted could get Fair 1.5, but I wouldn't be surprised if they only got a 1, depending on the grader. I think 1955 and earlier can often get from 0.5 to 1.0 grades higher than the same condition card from 1956 and later.

detroitfan2 · February 22, 2015 5:57AM

<< Hi Tom,

If you have residue on back left over from the book, meaning some of the album's page is glued to the card, but there is not paper loss, you can pull a 1.5 or 2. Cards that have some glue residue on back but no paper loss and also no extra paper glued on can get a 2 or sometimes 2.5. None of these cards have had an ST qualifier, and I've got a sample size of around 100 or so to reference.

Hope this helps! >>

Has anyone successfully removed the "album page" by soaking or other methods to get the card to the point that only the glue residue is left. I like this option as it allows the full back to be read in most cases.

tsalems1 · February 22, 2015 5:59AM

Thanks Greg

jmaciu · February 22, 2015 6:02AM

Tom, best of luck with that collection. I agree that the 75 opc looks great!

grote15 · February 22, 2015 6:10AM

I still have nightmares about opening 75 OPC packs~that issue and centering make the minis look easy!

miwlvrn · February 22, 2015 6:11AM

<< 

<< Hi Tom,

If you have residue on back left over from the book, meaning some of the album's page is glued to the card, but there is not paper loss, you can pull a 1.5 or 2. Cards that have some glue residue on back but no paper loss and also no extra paper glued on can get a 2 or sometimes 2.5. None of these cards have had an ST qualifier, and I've got a sample size of around 100 or so to reference.

Hope this helps! >>

Has anyone successfully removed the "album page" by soaking or other methods to get the card to the point that only the glue residue is left. I like this option as it allows the full back to be read in most cases. >>

If I get the cards still glued in instead of already having been removed with the paper stuck on, I have had the best results steaming them off. You need to keep it far enough away so that the card does not get water-logged, but close enough that the steam heats the glue. Works better than soaking IMO, if you practice. Worth mentioning that it seems like there are way more types of glue out there that people have used to stick cards into albums over the years than you may initially suspect, and not every type of glue releases as easy as others. Now, when I go through this process, my hopes are achieving a grade of 2 instead of just a 1.5, 1, or "Authentic"; I don't expect to get 2.5's and higher. I've been lucky to get an odd 4 or 6 in there but that is entirely to do with whoever stuck it in the album not having used very much glue on that particular card, and removing a card and then grading that high is incredibly rare.

DrFong · February 22, 2015 6:17AM

<< ......So you have that going for you, which is nice. >>

Piggs · February 22, 2015 7:37AM

I'd grade the big three you've shown for sure and all well centered nice cornered vintage cards. Good luck.

heritage · February 22, 2015 7:52AM

Always fun to pick up a collection of cards to dig around in. Good luck with them.

detroitfan2 · February 22, 2015 11:18AM

<< 

<< 

<< Hi Tom,

If you have residue on back left over from the book, meaning some of the album's page is glued to the card, but there is not paper loss, you can pull a 1.5 or 2. Cards that have some glue residue on back but no paper loss and also no extra paper glued on can get a 2 or sometimes 2.5. None of these cards have had an ST qualifier, and I've got a sample size of around 100 or so to reference.

Hope this helps! >>

Has anyone successfully removed the "album page" by soaking or other methods to get the card to the point that only the glue residue is left. I like this option as it allows the full back to be read in most cases. >>

If I get the cards still glued in instead of already having been removed with the paper stuck on, I have had the best results steaming them off. You need to keep it far enough away so that the card does not get water-logged, but close enough that the steam heats the glue. Works better than soaking IMO, if you practice. Worth mentioning that it seems like there are way more types of glue out there that people have used to stick cards into albums over the years than you may initially suspect, and not every type of glue releases as easy as others. Now, when I go through this process, my hopes are achieving a grade of 2 instead of just a 1.5, 1, or "Authentic"; I don't expect to get 2.5's and higher. I've been lucky to get an odd 4 or 6 in there but that is entirely to do with whoever stuck it in the album not having used very much glue on that particular card, and removing a card and then grading that high is incredibly rare. >>

Good advice, never thought about using steam. Thanks!

FavreFan1971 · February 22, 2015 10:55PM

If you are looking to resell them go for Authentic instead of 1's and 2's. Nicely centered Authentic sell for a better price than 1's and 2.'s

tsalems1 · February 23, 2015 9:29AM

<< If you are looking to resell them go for Authentic instead of 1's and 2's. Nicely centered Authentic sell for a better price than 1's and 2.'s >>

I don't see how a Authentic well centered card would sell higher than a well centered PSA 1 or 2...

Cards this low in grade come down to eye appeal for the most part.

I would much rather have a numerical grade than Authentic

gemint · February 23, 2015 1:20PM

<< 

<< If you are looking to resell them go for Authentic instead of 1's and 2's. Nicely centered Authentic sell for a better price than 1's and 2.'s >>

I don't see how a Authentic well centered card would sell higher than a well centered PSA 1 or 2...

Cards this low in grade come down to eye appeal for the most part.

I would much rather have a numerical grade than Authentic >>

I agree. When I see an 'A' grade, I assume it's been altered.

Collection of 50's and 70's cards...

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