Fro joy babe Ruth's authenticity
curch
Posts: 590 ✭✭✭
What do you look for in the reprints. I got these a few years back. They smell old . But that doesn't mean anything.
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Always looking for vintage wax boxes!
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Currently collecting 1934 Butterfinger, 1969 Nabisco, 1991 Topps Desert Shield (in PSA 9 or 10), and 1990 Donruss Learning Series (in PSA 10).
Currently collecting 1934 Butterfinger, 1969 Nabisco, 1991 Topps Desert Shield (in PSA 9 or 10), and 1990 Donruss Learning Series (in PSA 10).
Anyone know if they were originally released as strips? Seems to be some dotted line at the bottom of one where is should be cut but I was under the impression these were all factory cut.
<< <i>Not to many colored cards from the 1920s >>
Colored cards from the 1920s aren't that abnormal. Lots of issues were colored.
<< <i>
<< <i>Not to many colored cards from the 1920s >>
Colored cards from the 1920s aren't that abnormal. Lots of issues were colored. >>
I know but they are usually painted? This is a photo.
<< <i>My dealing with trying to get a card graded about 4 or 5 years ago was that it never got graded. I received this Babe Ruth Candy Co. card from a old friend of my mom's and she gave me a hand written note on how she got it from her uncle back in 1929 maybe '30 at a State Fair. Very clean consise note on how she got it. When I first tried to grade it SGC did not have it on their "Will not Grade" list and I sent it in. Well they didn't grade it and neither would PSA because these cards are faked and reprinted so much they could not grade it. I was a bit shocked by that reason but have done nothing with the card since. It's in great shape to. Good luck with your cards, hope they are real and that someone will grade it. Doug
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SGC just graded one of those for me last fall (2014). Are you sure they did not grade it because it's fake?
Back when I wrote the Sportscard Counterfeit Detector book in the early 1980s we included a comprehensive guide to telling real 1928 cards from modern fakes; I no longer remember the specifics.
<< <i>
<< <i>My dealing with trying to get a card graded about 4 or 5 years ago was that it never got graded. I received this Babe Ruth Candy Co. card from a old friend of my mom's and she gave me a hand written note on how she got it from her uncle back in 1929 maybe '30 at a State Fair. Very clean consise note on how she got it. When I first tried to grade it SGC did not have it on their "Will not Grade" list and I sent it in. Well they didn't grade it and neither would PSA because these cards are faked and reprinted so much they could not grade it. I was a bit shocked by that reason but have done nothing with the card since. It's in great shape to. Good luck with your cards, hope they are real and that someone will grade it. Doug
>>
SGC just graded one of those for me last fall (2014). Are you sure they did not grade it because it's fake? >>
I'll have to look it up to see the exact wording but they stated they no longer grade this issue because of fake and counterfeit cards that is prevalent with this issue. The note was not in reference to the card itself. Doug
Easy answer: Rub the paper stock through your fingers, it should be smooth (not coarse) and blacklight the card next to a goudey gum card - the florescence should be close to or equal to that of the goudey, not much brighter.
Hard answer: I don't think anyone in the collecting community can tell an authentic Fro-Joy from a good fake without guessing. Some think the card was printed on several different paper types, some think only one was used, and all are guessing. Personally I think the Ruth issues were printed for an extended period of time by several different entities, thus the difficulty in pinning down the attributes of an original. That's simply a guess.
In relation to your card: I'm 99.999% sure it is one of the 1970's printings. Initially, the stock jumped out to me as too bright, but more importantly, the dialog box of the reverse should be connected at each corner. Many of the later reprints I have seen have the boxes like yours in which they do not fully connect.
Period Fro-Joy with Connected Box
<< <i>Easy answer: Rub the paper stock through your fingers, it should be smooth (not coarse) and blacklight the card next to a goudey gum card - the florescence should be close to or equal to that of the goudey, not much brighter.
Hard answer: I don't think anyone in the collecting community can tell an authentic Fro-Joy from a good fake without guessing. Some think the card was printed on several different paper types, some think only one was used, and all are guessing. Personally I think the Ruth issues were printed for an extended period of time by several different entities, thus the difficulty in pinning down the attributes of an original. That's simply a guess.
In relation to your card: I'm 99.999% sure it is one of the 1970's printings. Initially, the stock jumped out to me as too bright, but more importantly, the dialog box of the reverse should be connected at each corner. Many of the later reprints I have seen have the boxes like yours in which they do not fully connect.
Wow! Thank you for your expertise!
Period Fro-Joy with Connected Box
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