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Multiple PSA registry sets.

Is it easier to work on multiple sets versus just one set.

Maybe I am not patient enough to work with 1 set. However, there seems to not be enough material to quickly assamble a set, even in a strict PSA 7 grade. I have found it more relaxing to search for a few sets as cards become available.

Will that be a poor decision long term - in regards to finances and time?

Comments

  • FBFB Posts: 1,684 ✭✭
    Sixdart,

    I couldn't do it... I started out trying to build Topps Baseball sets from 68 to 74 - the years that I collected as a kid. It wasn't long before I realized that I was spending better than $3000 a month. So, in the interests of financial stability and marital harmony, I scaled back to working on 1 primary set - 72 Topps and 2 - "if I'm getting impatient sets" - 67 Topps and 72 OPC. This way, if I'm having trouble finding cards that I need or upgrades, I can always pick up a couple of cards a month to show a little progress and cover the addiction.

    Thats how I've been able to balance cards with savings. I'm sure there are others who've taken different approaches.
    Frank Bakka
    Sets - 1970, 1971 and 1972
    Always looking for 1972 O-PEE-CHEE Baseball in PSA 9 or 10!

    lynnfrank@earthlink.net
    outerbankyank on eBay!
  • Sixdart - I will mirror some of Franks comments. It is an addiction after all we are addressing.
    I also use the Primary/Secondary set theory.
    My primary set is 1969 Topps baseball. When ever the action dries up or current items I need are too pricey I look to my secondary effort to provide the fix.
    I have recently undertaken a serious commitment to the 72' Topps Baseball set. I really like the set and they are a nice friendly group of fellow addicts. The 72' set is 787 cards. This gives me plenty of opportunity to bottom feed some really nice PSA 8 cards, feed the addiction, and I don't drop a lot of coin in the process.
    I have a few other minor efforts which are for the most part dormant if and when finances improve substantially.
    Lastly for addicts only:, keep in mind that grading your own is definitely cheaper. If you have a good eye for pre grading the head rush you can get from seeing those nice grades show up when your invoice is posted can be a rush that lasts for weeks!
    RayB69Topps
    Never met a Vintage card I didn't like!
  • theBobstheBobs Posts: 1,136 ✭✭


    << <i>more relaxing >>



    I am having a difficult time relaxing while building a single set...
    Where have you gone Dave Vargha
    CU turns its lonely eyes to you
    What's the you say, Mrs Robinson
    Vargha bucks have left and gone away?

    hey hey hey
    hey hey hey
  • VarghaVargha Posts: 2,392 ✭✭
    Obviously finances dictate alot. In my case, a 1939 Play Ball set, 1949 Bowman set and 1949 Bowman PCL set were all sold in order to bring my 1951 Bowman set to the point it is at today. However, if I had been content to keep my 1951 set at PSA 7, I would likely still own the two 1949 sets. Do what you like. One caveat, however, is that once you sell a fairly large accumulation or set, the likelihood is that it will be more difficult (and expensive) to rebuild it should you so desire.
  • gaspipe26gaspipe26 Posts: 1,614 ✭✭✭
    Buy , spend, sell. Do it all. What the hell I dont plan on living forever so I'm making sure there isnt any left (money) for anyone !!!
  • My main goal is to build as many different NM/MT sets as possible. I try to find raw sets whenever possible but it's getting tougher, particularly pre-1970. My first priority as far as grading goes is to grade out all the SMR listed star cards. Once I've done that, then I start grading out the commons. Since I'm building several sets, it will take me a lot longer to grade out my sets. It also means I won't have the highest grades. If I focused only on one year, then I could go after 9's and 10's. Since I'm building so many sets, I only chase 8's and take the 9's and 10's when I get them through my own submissions.
    Please visit my eBay auctions at gemint
  • brucemobrucemo Posts: 358
    It would be very expensive to start collecting several sets at once, since you need everything.

    Once you have gotten to the point where you aren't finding new cards very fast, it's safe to start collecting another one, if you can afford it.

    bruce
    Collecting '52 Bowman, '53 Bowman B&W, and '56 Topps, in PSA-7.
    Website: http://www.brucemo.com
    Email: brucemo@seanet.com
  • sixdartsixdart Posts: 821 ✭✭
    Thanks for the comments on your experiences.

    brucemo -

    I agree, I may try that and see what direction that will take me. It is addicitive - I am glad that set collecting is back.
  • helionauthelionaut Posts: 1,555 ✭✭
    I'm working on 2 sets, a 1975 Topps and a 1971 Topps Greatest Moments. I started on just the 71, but my town is dead for vintage, and they show up infrequently on auction sites, so progress can be very slow, like weeks in between additions, or even the chance of additions. The 75 allows me to feel like I'm moving forward, as almost every day there are new auctions on ebay I could bid on. But with a limited hobby budget, I can't go overboard on the 75s because you never know when a good 71 is going to show up. There are only 55 cards in the 71 set, so each one I add is a significant step towards completion. It's a balance between keeping that feeling of progress and being able to go after the cards I really like.
    WANTED:
    2005 Origins Old Judge Brown #/20 and Black 1/1s, 2000 Ultimate Victory Gold #/25
    2004 UD Legends Bake McBride autos & parallels, and 1974 Topps #601 PSA 9
    Rare Grady Sizemore parallels, printing plates, autographs

    Nothing on ebay
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