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PSA/DNA preferences

What is your preference? Does anyone find that one will bring more money than the other when selling?

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    wrestlingcardkingwrestlingcardking Posts: 4,555 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>What is your preference? Does anyone find that one will bring more money than the other when selling? >>



    I voted in your poll, red flip with grade on the card.
    BUYING Frank Gotch T229 Kopec
    Looking to BUY n332 1889 SF Hess cards and high grade cards from 19th century especially. "Once you have wrestled everything else in life is easy" Dan Gable
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    yankeeno7yankeeno7 Posts: 9,242 ✭✭✭
    I do understand that there can be reasons for specific items....card is in such great shape you want to have the card graded as well or autograph is weak so you dont want to get the autograph graded.

    Im just talking about the average type autos on mid grade cards.
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    MULLINS5MULLINS5 Posts: 4,517 ✭✭✭
    Do you have to have red flip with grade in order to play in the registry?
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    rounding3rdrounding3rd Posts: 287 ✭✭✭
    Red flip with card graded!
    Working on Baseball HOF Autograph Set Registry
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    otwcardsotwcards Posts: 5,291 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Do you have to have red flip with grade in order to play in the registry? >>



    Red Flips are for use in the "regular" Set Registry (cards). Authentic with no grade are counted with a weight of "1" versus those that actually have a grade weighted at the given grade.

    Blue Flips are for the PSA/DNA Registry...
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    Autos4AlexAutos4Alex Posts: 442 ✭✭✭
    To me:
    - I have a hard time identifying creases/etc from scans - so knowing the grade of the card is valuable (not interested in a 10, but a 5/6/7 vs a 2/3/4 is interesting to me).
    - I have a hard time looking at the details of the stroke of the autograph - so knowing the autograph is authentic is valuable.

    Because of this red flip with number grade is what I strongly prefer.

    As for the autograph quality:
    - I feel that I can self grade the 'strength' of the autograph. I wouldn't buy something smudged, and most everything else looks ok to me - no premium for autograph grade outside of clear/unsumdged
    - I pay a premium for period autographs vs after the fact autographs. I wish PSA/DNA would identify a year range for their signatures, I would pay a premium for that. For now I try to research myself

    For vintage cards my preference (willing to pay)
    1) Red Flip # grade
    2) Red Flip Authentic, Blue Flip Authentic, Blue Flip Graded (I assume they are all trimmed or are otherwise trying to hide something)

    For modern cards my preference is:
    1) Red Flip # grade
    2) Blue Flip Authentic, Blue Flip Graded (likelyhood of trimming is lower, so more willing to roll the dice)
    3) Red Flip Authentic
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