To Cut, or Not To Cut...That is the Question

kemdawg

I recently purchased a collection of (32) 1933 Rittenhouse Candy cards. These are hand cut cards, and many of them have excess cardboard, which makes me wonder if I should attempt to cut them into higher grade cards. Does anyone have any experience with this? If so, what is the best method to cutting these? Also, do you think it will make much of a difference in value if I cut them versus leaving them "as is?" I attached a file with one example of a card with excess cardboard (you can ignore the Babe Ruth - that card does not have excess cardboard). Curious what everyone thinks....

JoeBanzai

Can't see them.

kemdawg

Having trouble attaching the pictures. I'll try again later today.

dytch2220

<< <i>Having trouble attaching the pictures. I'll try again later today. >>



You can't use the attachment feature for pictures. Search the forum for how to use Photobucket to share images, PM me if you need any help after reading.

kemdawg

Okay, let's try this....1933 Rittenhouse Candy

(Thanks dytch2220)

begsu1013

cut but be sure to leave the borders

ReggieCleveland

Tough call. They remind me of a 1920s UNC set I've seen with baseball players and boxers. I guess it depends on how rare they are. For instance, with the UNC set the cards are so rare that technical grade usually doesn't play much of a role in price. If it were something like that, I would leave as-is and just get them slabbed authentic. But I'm not familiar with the Rittenhouse set at all. Are there a lot of graded examples you can examine to see where PSA likes the borders to be? With the more popular strip cards there's enough out there that you can see how they like them and cut to fit but if the set is more obscure it's more of a risk.

ReggieCleveland

I should add, in the UNC set I was talking about, the card portion isn't actually the intended borders. Looking at your cards, I'm guessing none of them have enough L/R borders to get a number grade, which would make all this a moot point.

begsu1013

and actually after looking at them a little more, I appears there is a perforation to these cards. with that being said, I can say with a lil certainty that they might already be min size for a numerical grade.

I would get w/ psa and see what the exact measurements need to be...but pretty sure it's gonna be where the perforations are.

but my initial thoughts are:

queen: trim excess off the top, but be sure to leave perforation marks
king: leave alone
jack: will prolly be too short regardless what you do. trim if you want sharp corners, but I like the way it looks...
five: take that lil excess off the top right corner only
nine: see jack

DanBessette

For me, the highlight of this thread was seeing your thumbs up pic in the photobucket.

ReggieCleveland

Begsu, you just totally let me down. I thought we had a PAndrews sighting. I miss PAndrews.

dytch2220

My recommendation depends on the flop. (LOL)

In seriousness, you'll not get the best grade if you cut on a perforation. PSA seems to grade them highest when expertly torn along the perforation line.

bishop

<< <i>Begsu, you just totally let me down. I thought we had a PAndrews sighting. I miss PAndrews. >>



+1

ReggieCleveland

I'd hit it.

begsu1013

<< <i>Begsu, you just totally let me down. I thought we had a PAndrews sighting. I miss PAndrews. >>



and worst of all, I never call baby when I say I will...

sorry I built you up, buttercups!

vols1

PSA won't grade those anything but authentic. Try SGC.

steel75

There are graded examples on Ebay right now..............Psa, Sgc, Bvg
It might give you a idea of what they are looking for grade wise

kemdawg

Thanks for all the input here. Based on the recommendations, I think I will hold off on cutting these for now. I'm also not convinced I need to get them authenticated though - possibly just the Ruth. My plan is to sell them so if I have the Ruth authenticated and sell the whole lot (I have 32 of them), I think that should be adequate (and save on authentication fees). Good idea? Bad idea?