Lighting Question - Not Direct Lights Question

TheRock

For those of you that have managed to accomplish those beautiful close-up pictures like the True-View style ones, I have a question pertaining to the light in the room and not the specific direct lights used.

I have studied and replicated a lot of the equipment that you guys use based on previous threads, etc. However, I seem to get very different results when taking a picture of the coin in a room that is DARK while using either the flash on the camera or LED's/Lights that have been defused versus a room that is already BRIGHT from the natural sunlight, etc while using the flash on the camera or LED's/Lights.

Both ways turn out very good pictures but both take very different "White Balance" adjustments, etc. to get the picture to it's best quality.

Equipment I'm using:
- Kaiser Copy Stand
- Nikon D5200 Camera
- Nikon 40mm Macro Lens
- LED Lights

What do you guys/gals recommend? DARK room or LIGHT room?

CoinZip

I use a light box which diffuses the room light.

DollarAfterDollar

As I understand it the common logic is DARK room since overhead lights can interfere.

TheRock

I was thinking DARK room also but in that situation the direct lights (LED/LIGHTS) seem to put such a glare on the coins that it takes much more effort to eliminate the shine off the lights even with them defused.

For whatever reason in a LIGHTED room, it seems to soften the glare and I don't know why. Still using the defused direct lighting.

I'm kind of baffled at the moment.

drwstr123

Consistency is attained by controlling variables.

blu62vette

Tp me a 40mm macro lens is to short.

mgoodm3

dark room. The problem may be mostly related to using a short focal length macro lens (40mm). That lens is relatively wide-angle and it will be more difficult to get good direct lighting on the coin - due to how close the lens is to the coin and the angle of view of the lens). In that case the ambient light from the room will help improve the lighting - kinda like using a lot of diffusion. The problem with using direct and ambient lighting is that they are not the same color temperature and you will tend to not get as good of a white balance.

A longer focal length macro lens will help improve the direct lighting and thus make the need for that ambient light go away.

LanceNewmanOCC

<< <i>For whatever reason in a LIGHTED room, it seems to soften the glare and I don't know why. Still using the defused direct lighting. >>



because your lighting angles are incorrect and/or also camera settings. good images can be had in a bright room but it changes a lot of the variables. easier to control them in the dark. just like preheating your oven.

upload a pic(s) and show us.
.

BStrauss3

Dark (or...)

For routine shots, dark because the color temperatures and color curves of the CFCL in your room lights - even diffused - will distort the white balance.

Or set a custom white balance each time you start a session (so it also reflects - pun intended) any daylight coming in.

TheRock

OK, here are some photos of the Equipment Setup and Lenses. The lights of course are not in the right spots at the moment.


Kaiser Stand


Default Lens (Came With Camera)


40mm Macro Lens


I can shoot some coins later on, but wanted to show you what I have to use.

messydesk

Pretty short lens for coins. You're either going to have to back off a lot and crop a lot or you're going to have a rather short working distance and plenty of glare.

Anyway, the light in the room should be minimal (preferably none), and match the color of the light you're using to light the coin.

TheRock

Thanks guys.

What do you recommend for the size MACRO lens to use then ? 60, 80 or 100 ?

EDITED: After finding some older posts, I see most recommend 100mm to 200MM being the best MACRO lens to use.

Correct?

lostincoins

Hey John look at my thread on imaging my toned morgan and you will see a lot of information on lighting, lenses, and setups. I would say that the lens you are using is to short and thet you need a minimum of 100mm. A Sigma 150mm macro can be had for 400-500 and has specially coated lenses that work better with newer digital SLR cameras because of the reflectivity of the sensor. The Sigma lens gets very good reviews and it is what I am personaly using. if you look at my thread you will see that member mercurydimeguy also uses the Sigma lens. Your lights look like mine that I boughjt from target that are very bright and many members here have had great luch with Jansjo LED lamps from Ikea. I am switching over to them as I like the results others are getting with them. As to your question I would say a darker room is better but good results can be had in a well lit room also, you just have to adjust the whit balance accordingly and would recomend ysing a grey card to do so. As stated consistancy is the key and getting those lights up high and right next to the camera or lens.

TheRock

Awesome, thanks for all the help guys.

Sounds like the 150mm Sigma Macro is the way to go.

Time to make another purchase. Chalk it up to another TOY to play with - LOL

CoinPhotog

I use a 105mm on my Nikon. Great lens which allows me to get the camera up off of the coin. Something that hasn't been mentioned is, pay attention to the color of the shirt that you wear when you take pictures. For the longest time when I was at Bowers and Merena I couldn't figure out why one day my images had a yellow cast to them, then the next they had a blue cast, etc etc. I finally realized it was my shirt that was casting the color shift. From that day forward I wore a black lab coat and still do to this day.

CoinPhotog

PT 2, put a black cloth on the wall behind your set up. Yellow/tan wall equals yellow/tan cast.

morgansforever

A 40mm may be great for shooting slabs and dollar sized coins but that's about it, maybe a half dollar. Dimes and cents would be next to impossible as you would need to be 6 or 8
inches to get a decent shot. Being this close is tough to get the light on the coin. The Nikon 105mm Micro Nikkor lens will work in all modes with the 5200. The AF and VR will not work with a DX sensor but who needs that when mounted to a copy stand, plus you just focus through the view finder. The 105mm Micro Nikkor will run you $375 -$450 versus $850 + or - for the AF-S model.

lkrarecoins

I use the 150MM Nikon-compatible Sigma lens....I purchased it used on Ebay abt 3 years ago for $535. It has served me well for shooting coins. I also marked, with a Sharpie, the positions on my copy stand vertical mount, where each coin (dollar, quarter, dime etc) fills the viewfinder. Makes life much easier when shooting different sized coins

As far as lighting, I am currently using the Par30 bulbs, they give off a good amt of light (and heat) and can be positioned relatively high due to the size of my lens. I need to experiment with the Jansjos, as it seems a lot of folks are having decent results.

blu62vette

How tall is the Kaiser stand? Over 36"?