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Grading by TPG's

Having been a member here these past 7 months and observing all the discussions in regard to grading, would like to throw out the following for discussion. The biggest plus I see with grading is the verification of a cards authenticity. Along with any on card autograph as well. The larger issue that seems (to me) to be up for debate is all the various numerical grades ones cards receive. I read many times that you should buy the card,or coin, and not the holder. So following this reasoning it would seem to almost be pointless to assign a number to the card. Someones card with an 9 grade may be an 8 to someone else etc. You get the idea where the debate ensues. Once a card is deemed authentic, it seems to me it would be up to the seller/buyer to reach an accord as to its appeal/grade, as they are the only 2 principles involved to complete an acceptable transaction that really matter. This is not to say the TPG's do not serve a purpose. Their experience is valuable in reference to establishing a cards/coins authenticity. I just wonder if there would be less confusion if the number grade was omitted in grading a card. I know many potential buyers feel more comfortable with a graded card, but it seems despite a numerical graded card, the debates still continue. It's like having a classic car you have up for sale. If a company graded your Corvette a 9 no doubt someone would say it was a 7. I've not had many cards graded yet, but when I did it was mainly to establish authenticity, like my 86 Fleer Jordan rookie and sticker, with the numerical grade being a bonus. I totally expect someone to disagree with the numerical grade someday when it is time to sell, but at least it's authentic. It just seems that the whole grading industry was supposed to solve many of the condition designation issues of cards/coins/collectibles, yet the debates continue on as much as they ever have.
Successful transactions:Tookybandit. "Everyone is equal, some are more equal than others".

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    MisterBungleMisterBungle Posts: 2,308 ✭✭✭

    Nah, that would just take us back to the bad old days
    where a seller would think his card is a 9, and all you
    can see is a 6.

    At least with PSA, you have an expert opinion to start
    from. You can argue whether it should be a point
    lower or a point higher, but that beats the heck
    out of what went on back in the day.

    John

    ~


    "America suffers today from too much pluribus and not enough unum.".....Arthur Schlesinger Jr.

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    grote15grote15 Posts: 29,536 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Nah, that would just take us back to the bad old days
    where a seller would think his card is a 9, and all you
    can see is a 6.

    At least with PSA, you have an expert opinion to start
    from. You can argue whether it should be a point
    lower or a point higher, but that beats the heck
    out of what went on back in the day.

    John

    ~ >>



    +1

    Third party opinion is a significant part of the transaction, especially if the TPG is a reputable one. It's still subjective to an extent even at that point but at least it checks grade inflation by unscrupulous sellers.


    Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
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    It also prevents the purchase of cards that appear to be NM+ but contain surface wrinkles or other difficult to see flaws.
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    Stone193Stone193 Posts: 24,351 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>It just seems that the whole grading industry was supposed to solve many of the condition designation issues of cards/coins/collectibles, yet the debates continue on as much as they ever have. >>

    In some ways, the "pre"TPG period is like the Dark Ages.

    And "post"TPG is the Age of Enlightenment.
    Mike
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    dbcoindbcoin Posts: 2,200 ✭✭
    I read many times that you should buy the card,or coin, and not the holder.

    That is the mantra of those who don't buy PSA cards. The TPG doing the grading and the grade is just as important as authenticity
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