What is your opinion of the 8.5 grade versus an 8 or 9?
KendallCat
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One of the things I am curious about is everyone's opinion of the addition of the half point in particular the PSA 8.5. As most people will suggest you need to buy the card and not the holder, and when looking at an 8.5 what are you looking for in regards to the difference between an 8-8.5-9? Price valuations between an 8 and a 9 can be huge, and between an 8 and 8.5 most times there is about a 25-40% bump if not more.
If I am looking at say a 1975 Brett the 8's are in the $175-225 range while 9's are in the $1300-2000 range. An 8.5 is about $450-500, and the only difference between it and a 9 might be so minor you cannot even see it since a tiny corner edge can be the difference - we have all seen rough 8's that look nowhere near a 9 and others that should be a 9.
Just curious as to those that have sold 8.5's if there are any issues when selling the half grade when it comes to or pricing and such. Thank you in advance for the help.
If I am looking at say a 1975 Brett the 8's are in the $175-225 range while 9's are in the $1300-2000 range. An 8.5 is about $450-500, and the only difference between it and a 9 might be so minor you cannot even see it since a tiny corner edge can be the difference - we have all seen rough 8's that look nowhere near a 9 and others that should be a 9.
Just curious as to those that have sold 8.5's if there are any issues when selling the half grade when it comes to or pricing and such. Thank you in advance for the help.
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As far as selling and buying, I have purchased a few 8.5' cards that I could not afford to purchase in the 9 grade. However, I just wont buy any 8.5 either. I like to purchase the ones that look like they have a chance at bumping.
I collect: 80’s Rookies and 86 Fleer Basketball
Instagram: mattyc_collection
<< <i>I like to purchase the ones that look like they have a chance at bumping. >>
I agree with Dnice. If the card is well-centered and it has four sharp corners it may be worth the risk of a resubmission.
TheClockworkAngelCollection
Yogi
TheClockworkAngelCollection
Once I saw the card market start to have some warts with the whole WIWAG fiasco, the Baseball Card kid unopened stuff, and seeing the stock market about to pull down the card market I divested of most of my cards and did pretty well with them - Williams appreciated from $1500 to $5k+ in 2-3 years and I sold before they dropped. That and a pending marriage and house to build will do that to you!
In the past 2 years I have gotten back into it and dragged my little guy along who loves it as much as I did when I was a kid, and we target cards I used to get when I was a kid in the 70's - Reds players, Aaron, Brett, Ryan, Schmidt... We are also going to pick up some nice 56's and 57's - Williams, Mantle, Aaron, Mays... I think with the Mantles I will stick to high end 8's in 1956 and 1953, and with the others will shoot for the same with some 8.5's mixed in. The top cards on my list for the first wave are as follows:
1953 Mantle PSA 8
1953 Mays PSA 8
1956 Mantle PSA 8
1956 Williams PSA 8
1957 Aaron PSA 8 or 8.5 - centering is the key
1975 Aaron #1 PSA 8.5 or 9
Hope little guy enjoys them since it might be his college fund!
TheClockworkAngelCollection
For what it's worth, I would say there are some benefits to not necessarily shopping for a specific grade. You could potentially miss out on some gorgeous cards that are tremendous values in the grade or two just below what you were seeking; it is definitely possible to wind up with a card that looks the way you wanted the intended grade to look, for significantly less than you were initially planning on spending.
For example, it's funny you mentioned the 1956 Ted Williams. I was recently looking at an 8 that cost a relative bundle, then came upon this 6 pictured below. Hits my eye almost the same as the 8 (it has better centering but softer corners), and when I examined the cards side-by-side it kind of made buying the 8 seem profligate.
Instagram: mattyc_collection
<< <i>I have held that very Maris and it looks better than a 9 I know of. Tremendous card.
For what it's worth, I would say there are some benefits to not necessarily shopping for a specific grade. You could potentially miss out on some gorgeous cards that are tremendous values in the grade or two just below what you were seeking; it is definitely possible to wind up with a card that looks the way you wanted the intended grade to look, for significantly less than you were initially planning on spending.
For example, it's funny you mentioned the 1956 Ted Williams. I was recently looking at an 8 that cost a relative bundle, then came upon this 6 pictured below. Hits my eye almost the same as the 8 (it has better centering but softer corners), and when I examined the cards side-by-side it kind of made buying the 8 seem profligate.
I agree and ironically enough at the National I did the same exact thing with the same exact card - 56 Williams in a PSA 6. My 9 year old was interested and figured that instead of $1500 I would find a nice one at a better price, and came across one of the larger dealers while I was looking at a 56 Mantle in an 8. I checked out the Williams and after looking at it through a loop I could not see why it was a 6. When I asked the dealer his response was all I needed - had that look in his eye of "please don't buy it so I can resubmit it". I gave him the $275 and handed it to a very happy young collector.
For some reason I cannot get photos to upload on this board - on my IPad on a plane, and if anyone has any tips on how to do it please let me know and I will post some photos.
Sent in a 1971 Killebrew figured it had a shot at a 10, it was a 9 for sure. Of course it came back an 8.5. Should have just kept it or resubmitted it. Sold for WAY less than halfway between an 8 and a 9.
Oh well nobody's fault but mine.
Overall, I would say that as a seller an half grade is not nearly as good as getting the higher grade, not much premium in my mind.
As a buyer if you can get that perfectly centered card a in an 8.5, you should be able to save some serious cash.
As a buyer if you can get that perfectly centered card a in an 8.5, you should be able to save some serious cash.
Agreed on the buying part 100% on an 8.5. If you can get a nice one for a little (20-30%) over the price of an 8 it is worth it. Look at a Brett in PSA 8 at $200 or so versus an 8.5 at $500 or a 9 at $1800. Huge gap between an 8.5 and a 9 versus the gap between an 8 and an 8.5.
<< <i>My 86 Fleer Jordan is graded by Beckett 8.5. I've been thinking of a resub, or review to Becketts for a 9. Don't know if Becketts does reviews. Or would the card have more value as a PSA 8 over a Beckett 9 and would I be better off leaving it as a 8.5 and not risk a downgrade with PSA, despite PSAs' being more attracvtive to buyers. >>
The 86 Fleer Jordan is worth way more as a BGS 9 (around $2k) than a PSA 8 (around $1k-$1100) or PSA 8.5 (around $1300+). What are the subgrades on yours? If it can get a bump from BGS 8.5 to either PSA or BGS 9 it is worth a shot. I don't know if crossing from 8.5 to 8.5 is worth a lot depending on the subs you have on the BGS, when you factor in how much the review and shipping will be with PSA. Just my opinion.
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<< <i>My 86 Fleer Jordan is graded by Beckett 8.5. I've been thinking of a resub, or review to Becketts for a 9. Don't know if Becketts does reviews. Or would the card have more value as a PSA 8 over a Beckett 9 and would I be better off leaving it as a 8.5 and not risk a downgrade with PSA, despite PSAs' being more attracvtive to buyers. >>
The 86 Fleer Jordan is worth way more as a BGS 9 (around $2k) than a PSA 8 (around $1k-$1100) or PSA 8.5 (around $1300+). What are the subgrades on yours? If it can get a bump from BGS 8.5 to either PSA or BGS 9 it is worth a shot. I don't know if crossing from 8.5 to 8.5 is worth a lot depending on the subs you have on the BGS, when you factor in how much the review and shipping will be with PSA. Just my opinion. >>
Thanks for your thoughts. The subs are as follows:8 Centering, 9 Edges, 9 Corners, 9.5 Surface.