Are these three Football cards good long term investments? (low dollar items, $20)

ChanceP

Could these cards be worth $40 or $50 each in 10-15 years? I'm looking to start purchasing PSA 8s and 9s of HOFers that I like from the late 70s, early 80s (as per some of your guys advice). Rookies if possible and as close to rookies as possible if too expensive

I don't really ever plan on selling BUT . . . . I do want the cards I chose to have great investment potential

Kinda vague and lame questions I know guys sorry but Im just trying to get a feel here and you guys really know your stuff


SMRs for these cards are $22 Taylor RC, $15 Lott RC, and $27 Montana 2nd yr

ChanceP

Here's two cards I already bought, thoughts?

ndleo

I would stick to PSA 9/10 RCs from anything from 1975-mid 1980's.

PSA 8's don't appreciate as fast as PSA 9s. The 1979 T Earl Campbell PSA 8 used to sell for around $35 a few years ago, now it gets $40. A PSA 9 Campbell sold for around $160, now I see it in the $250+ range.

I sold my PSA 9 for $160 thinking I could get another for the same price or lower later on. I was wrong.

shu4040

agreed, get 9s, not 8s

MikeyP

I agree with Ndleo. Purchase cards that are graded PSA 9 or better.

ndleo

ChanceP - I know it can get expensive, but saving your money and buying quality has always worked in this hobby.

I'm more of a football guy, but if you want to manage a budget, focus on defensive players and players from team with a strong fan base. I have made a lot of money over the years buying PSA 9/10 Steeler cards at local shows and flipping them.

ClockworkAngel

Yes, 9's and 10's have always increased much more and quicker in value. That being said, It's all about the OP's budget and financial flexibility. It's easy for us to say get a 9 instead, but he may not have the expendable funds.

I think 8's of cards like these are not likely to increase much if at all. There are a ton out there and will be more and more as more cards are submitted.

If it's reasonable, I'd recommend selling all of those, and getting 1 PSA 9 that is equal. That's if you're looking for investment purposes mainly

ChanceP

How about the Montana and Carlton 9s? Should I sell those too or could they be "keepers?"



Thanks

ChanceP

thx ndleo

NickM

The Fouts and Carlton cards are selling for around $5 sometimes currently. I don't see them going up that much unless inflation takes off.

Nick

mattyc_collection

I would say get the best CARD, whether it is an 8 or a 9 or a 6. Whatever the company's grade, make sure it is worthy of that assigned grade and looks the part-- if not better.

There are collectors at every budget range, and there will always be collectors looking for gorgeous, key cards of the popular HOF players. You can see nice increases at every grade level, if you buy the absolute best card in that level, one that looks as good or better than some in higher TPG-assigned grades.

As both a buyer and seller, I have seen some very high percentage increases in value-- and some in short periods of time-- for mid and lower grade cards with transcendent eye appeal. I have also seen "low-end" 9s and 10s that lack the eye appeal of their more deserving counterparts in the same grade get bought hoping for a good resale, but because the eye-appeal is not there, the cards go unsold or get unloaded for a loss of varying size.

So it is important to not merely buy within a grade, but to make sure the card matches or exceeds that grade. Especially with more expensive cards that are condition-rare as opposed to rare in all grade states, I often see buyers of expensive condition rarities being very selective in which card they choose to buy. Picky collectors about to plunk down serious coin for a condition-rare expensive card will often pass on the specimens with less eye appeal and wait out the nice ones. Just look at the thread about the 71 Aarons here today; some of us as buyers are passing on both high grade examples and instead are choosing to wait out a better one.

The advice about picking cards with big and passionate fan followings is very smart-- though that should never deter one from collecting what and who they love, appreciation set aside.

I would also lastly not embrace SMR as a bible, since in many cases it is way behind the live market.

ChanceP

<< <i>I would say get the best CARD, whether it is an 8 or a 9 or a 6. Whatever the company's grade, make sure it is worthy of that assigned grade and looks the part-- if not better.

There are collectors at every budget range, and there will always be collectors looking for gorgeous, key cards of the popular HOF players. You can see nice increases at every grade level, if you buy the absolute best card in that level, one that looks as good or better than some in higher TPG-assigned grades.

As both a buyer and seller, I have seen some very high percentage increases in value-- and some in short periods of time-- for mid and lower grade cards with transcendent eye appeal. I have also seen "low-end" 9s and 10s that lack the eye appeal of their more deserving counterparts in the same grade get bought hoping for a good resale, but because the eye-appeal is not there, the cards go unsold or get unloaded for a loss of varying size.

So it is important to not merely buy within a grade, but to make sure the card matches or exceeds that grade. Especially with more expensive cards that are condition-rare as opposed to rare in all grade states, I often see buyers of expensive condition rarities being very selective in which card they choose to buy. Picky collectors about to plunk down serious coin for a condition-rare expensive card will often pass on the specimens with less eye appeal and wait out the nice ones. Just look at the thread about the 71 Aarons here today; some of us as buyers are passing on both high grade examples and instead are choosing to wait out a better one.

The advice about picking cards with big and passionate fan followings is very smart-- though that should never deter one from collecting what and who they love, appreciation set aside.

I would also lastly not embrace SMR as a bible, since in many cases it is way behind the live market. >>




thank you very much