Questions on What to Get Graded

taul166

Hi, I have a run of Topps Baseball sets from 1959 thru 1969 (just started on 1968) that I have been assembling for years. Aside from most Mantles and some other stars, not many of my cards are graded. I would say that overall the cards and sets are VG/EX....some better, some worse.

I am looking for comments from others on what cards I should get graded to solidify the value of the sets. For example, should I try to pick out what I consider to be the best cards at say a threshold value of $100 each and have all of those graded? Or should I just go ahead and get all major stars (Mantle, Aaron, Mays, Koufax, for example) graded even if PSA grades some at a 3, 4, or 5 level?

Thanks for any thoughts or suggestions.

MikeyP

I would consult a Beckett Baseball magazine in order to identify the star players for the years that you have collected. I would then send at least those cards to be graded by PSA.

Downtown1974

I would grade all major HOFers and all HOF rookies.

53BKid

<< <i>I would grade all major HOFers and all HOF rookies. >>



Ditto...I also would grade the better condition short prints...62, 66 & 67 especially.

'66 Grant Jackson in PSA 4, $150?

Good Luck!

jay0791

Grading can cost a ton of $ w.o any benefits if cards grade below 8

Major stars like mantle and RC of HOFers are possibly the only exceptions.

First: try to grade your single Card. Then go to ebay and search that exact grade. Does your card look like that?

If yes then what is the completed final sold price?

Would the cost of grading been worth it?

Common mid grade cards usually don't get premiums for being graded....in fact you might bet less.

IF cards are very high end and can get 9's or above then everything is worth grading.

Some low population commons in hi grade get big $

So Research is a big part as well as getting the grade right before you send in a sub.

Mintacular

Tough call, if you are selling many raw set collectors would prefer to have for example a "PSA 4" quality '66 Koufax remain ungraded, raw. With the condition you are describing I would lean towards grading only the very highest dollar cards like Mantle and possibly any exceptionally sharp low pop high #, etc.

ScottishPunk

This piggybacks on a question that I have struggled with. What is the cut off point for your personal standard. Meaning what grade is generally "good enough". I remember when I first started grading many years ago (with Beckett), getting a 8.5 or 9 on an 80's early 90's card was considered good. I think now there is so much more graded cards on the market, that the expectations are higher. Collectors on the blowout forums which is slanted toward modern and beckett seem to be only looking for 9.5 grades now.

What is the general consensus for cutoffs, consider the following scenarios (RCs)

New shiny chrome - Only 10's or are 9's still acceptable?
90's SPs - I am talking about Arod, Warren Sapp, Derrick Brooks, Faulk, Jason Kidd - nothing lower than a 9?
80's RC - Boggs, Sandberg, Elway, Marino, etc. Does 8's and 8.5 hold any value
70's RC - Franco Harris, Brett, Yount Does 7's hold value ?

Bigger name RC make a difference like Bradshaw, Payton, Schmidt.

DezHood

I think the points here are valid, but I did want to enter somewhat of a dissenting opinion. I think mid-grade cards do sell. Some people do put together registry sets and pick up mid and even low grade cards with good eye appeal. And to me they would be easier to sell online graded. Selling raw cards.... better have a good scanner, a good reputation built up, even then someone could send them in for grading and come back and say "you sold me trimmed cards".