Amatuer collector here looking for what set to try and build for an investment and for awesomeness
ChanceP
Posts: 68 ✭✭
Hello guys first post on this forum. I am an absolute amateur collector, used to love cards in my teens (I'm 36 now) and am just lately getting into ebay and back into it a little bit. Been kind of addicted to eBay the last week or two just looking at all the amazing stuff that's for sale there.
Anyways I wanted to ask the forum here for a little advice and recommendations and ideas since I'm completely out of touch and I really know no one in my real life who knows anything about cards.
I've seen some of the set builder threads here and its encouraged me to try and do something. I'm not starting another "watch me build a set" thread , I'm more just looking for your guys opinions.
What sets are some of the most "downswing proof," meaning what few sets do you think would hold up best if we get another huge downswing in prices like what's happened before. Kind of a vague and lame question but there are surely some sets you guys feel would hold up better than others thru tough times. I'm not even really focused on "making money" with this, it's more a hobby, but I'd like to go safe instead of high risk, if that's even possible. Again, I'm clueless here
The other thing is awesomeness. For some reason I think the 1960 Topps set is just awesome, even though prices definitely don't reflect many others share my opinion lol. What sets do you guys think just look awesome? I think the 53 topps "looks" way more awesome than the 52 even tho obviously the 52 is the holy grail.
My only real sets I've thought about TRYING to assemble are :
A 52 topps psa 5 set
A 60 topps psa 8 set
An 86 fleer hoops set of some sort
A 1990 upper deck psa 10 set
I saw a guy estimate his 52 topps set building would cost approx $60,000. I plan on this being a 10-15 year goal for me so I probably could buy $60,000 of cards in a 10-15 yr span, that's few hundred/month, perfect.
Anyways, sorry if this topic is lame or been beaten to death but like I said I just have no one in my life who knows squat about cards. I'm just trying to get back into it and would love to hear some knowledgeable opinions and advice.
Thanks for reading
Anyways I wanted to ask the forum here for a little advice and recommendations and ideas since I'm completely out of touch and I really know no one in my real life who knows anything about cards.
I've seen some of the set builder threads here and its encouraged me to try and do something. I'm not starting another "watch me build a set" thread , I'm more just looking for your guys opinions.
What sets are some of the most "downswing proof," meaning what few sets do you think would hold up best if we get another huge downswing in prices like what's happened before. Kind of a vague and lame question but there are surely some sets you guys feel would hold up better than others thru tough times. I'm not even really focused on "making money" with this, it's more a hobby, but I'd like to go safe instead of high risk, if that's even possible. Again, I'm clueless here
The other thing is awesomeness. For some reason I think the 1960 Topps set is just awesome, even though prices definitely don't reflect many others share my opinion lol. What sets do you guys think just look awesome? I think the 53 topps "looks" way more awesome than the 52 even tho obviously the 52 is the holy grail.
My only real sets I've thought about TRYING to assemble are :
A 52 topps psa 5 set
A 60 topps psa 8 set
An 86 fleer hoops set of some sort
A 1990 upper deck psa 10 set
I saw a guy estimate his 52 topps set building would cost approx $60,000. I plan on this being a 10-15 year goal for me so I probably could buy $60,000 of cards in a 10-15 yr span, that's few hundred/month, perfect.
Anyways, sorry if this topic is lame or been beaten to death but like I said I just have no one in my life who knows squat about cards. I'm just trying to get back into it and would love to hear some knowledgeable opinions and advice.
Thanks for reading
0
Comments
1994 Pro Line Live
TheDallasCowboyBackfieldProject
I'm sure the 310 low numbers in PSA 5 will be more than 10K. Probably more like 20 to 25, but that's just a guess.
Good luck with whatever you choose, and welcome.
An alternative method of set building that mitigates the above risks from a financial standpoint, is to build the set with raw commons that fit your desired eye appeal or grade profile, while doing all the HOFers or key cards in whatever grade you desire. This allows for less outlay on the riskier components of the set. As someone who has built a few graded sets, I can also attest to how the daily enjoyment of hundreds of slabbed commons becomes somewhat unwieldy and impractical, of course depending on one's display capabilities. I have found a good old binder to be a great way to enjoy commons, and the smaller outlay on commons can allow for higher quality examples of the key cards (which are usually where the awesomeness is at; for example I love certain 1952 and 1975 commons, but always look at Mantle, Berra, Mays, Robinson, Brett, Yount, etc., first and last when enjoying the set).
I think sets with enduring, widespread popularity are, among others: T206, 1914/15 Cracker Jacks, 1933 Goudey, 1952 Topps, 1967 Topps, 1971 Topps, 1975 Topps Regular and Mini, 1986 Fleer Basketball-- and of course there are many others that people favor for a variety of reasons. The PreWar space is noteworthy because there is not as great a chance of many new Cracker Jack Cobbs, Shoeless Joes, or Mathewsons popping up as there are say 1975 cards.
In the end, every set has its star power and the aesthetic of a set's design is a very personal choice, as is what we each find awesome. Above all, what matters is that the collector love what he/she is collecting and building more than anyone else. If you choose attractive examples (in any grade) to build any set, they will surely appeal to that set's collectors and fans upon any potential future resale.
I would encourage you to get familiar with VintageCardPrices.com, so you can accurately gauge what certain cards in certain states of eye appeal and grade have sold for in the past; it is a helpful tool, though by no means a static price guide or bible (not every completed sale on ebay is entirely legitimate).
Anyways, hope all that helps.
Instagram: mattyc_collection
The cards are very attractive, and it is the key set from a classic era of baseball history.
Nick
Reap the whirlwind.
Need to buy something for the wife or girlfriend? Check out Vintage Designer Clothing.
I would choose any of them except for the 1990 PSA 10 set. If you do a 1986 Fleer Basketball set I would do it in PSA 9 and not PSA 8 or 10.
Good luck, whatever you decide.
Best of luck whichever set you decide on!
Joe Montana, Jerry Rice, Rickey Henderson, Ken Griffey Jr., George Brett, Robin Yount, Mario Lemieux, Cal Ripken, etc.
Maybe throw in some high grade steroid era cards too.
Starting a set as your first move back into the hobby seems like a big challenge and one that you may tire of due to the size and scope of what is required. If you maintain the collecting bug after a year or two then you could always sell the cards above and focus in on one objective.
Many of the major sports sets are very large and for many it is hard to get excited about paying high prices for guys that were never important. Under no circumstances am I suggesting this is bad but it takes resources and commitment and to me it is like signing up for a four year gym membership and paying upfront like the old days even though you have not worked out in a while. Buy the monthly membership and see if you like it.
The good news about cards is there are tons to choose from and something for everyone. Some like condition, some like quantity, others like both and there is no one way to collect.
<< <i>I would start a HOF set from the various sports in a PSA 8 grade. This will help you decide which direction you want to go in and the cards can be sold back to the market with limited downside risk.
Joe Montana, Jerry Rice, Rickey Henderson, Ken Griffey Jr., George Brett, Robin Yount, Mario Lemieux, Cal Ripken, etc. >>
I absolutely agree with that and would add that I especially like David's examples. I would focus on the 80s, if I were you.
1. Price sweet spot. 50s, 60s, 70s maybe too expensive (obv depending on your budget). 90s too cheap.
2. Value. 70s prices have risen a lot, mostly (I think) because of demographics. People who collected those as kids are older with money. The same seems likely to happen with 80s over time. I think, from an investment perspective, it's a good decade to look at.
Best of luck and welcome to the boards!
T206 Set of course in any grade is awesome, Worth about as much as a 1960 set PSA 8 I would think in low grade.
These are 2 tough sets that will take a long time to make, but both fun sets that many enjoy collecting.
More mid century sets,
I like the idea of the 1952 Set in Mid grade, The high numbers are tough and fun to find.
The 1954 Topps Set is a nice size set with several key rookies, A PSA 6-8 Set would look nice, Also a 1955 Set with the popular Clemente rookie.
Not a baseball set but I like the 1952 Bowman Football issues small and large. They remind me of the 1953 Topps set with a mix of bowman. Those havent spiked or gone down but stayed flat in my opinion. I think its a sleeper of a set with many tough and low pop cards, it just seems to have never taken off.
Anyhow a few classics to throw at you.
Hope you find something you enjoy!
I would choose a smaller set to start for sure. I got back in a few years ago and picked up my 75 set
I still plan to finish but stop and start along the way. A smaller set gives you a chance to complete in realistic time and really figure out if you like the graded route other the raw route or a combo.
All the sets listed are winners. Good luck with whatever you choose.
Just priced the '52 set in PSA 5 using VCP and came up with $59,953.04 (one copy each of the red/black backs, no gray backs, no Sain/Page variations, and no Campos star). High numbers ran $47,924.60. That would be my choice (or any '50s set for that matter).
DON'T DO THE 1990 UPPER DECK SET. I'm sure nobody said that to you yet (except for everybody on the planet).
bobsbbcards SGC Registry Sets
<< <i>Can't go wrong with 52 topps. And a set I personally hate, but that the collecting world seems to collectively get hot n bothered about, is 75 topps baseball. Seems to me that will never depreciate. >>
Never been a big fan of the 75 set myself - maybe that's why I have less than half a dozen left over from my childhood lol.
Anywho - OP - welcome aboard!!!
Topps/OPC Hockey 1966-Present base sets
Join the Rookie stars on top PSA registry today:
1980-1989 Cello Packs - Rookies
1) Click "profile" up there on the right under "Navigation:".
2) Click "Allow Private Messages" towards the bottom.
3) Click "Update Profile" really towards the bottom.
That will let people send you double top secret stuff.
bobsbbcards SGC Registry Sets
<< <i>Original poster. Turn on your PM's (private messages). Here's how:
1) Click "profile" up there on the right under "Navigation:".
2) Click "Allow Private Messages" towards the bottom.
3) Click "Update Profile" really towards the bottom.
That will let people send you double top secret stuff. >>
From an investor perspective, the only good potential buys is picking up very high grade low pop singles or maybe very rare unopened material
Instagram: mattyc_collection
DM23HOF ~ Nice top 20 collection!
As for your two caveats, minimizing downside risk and awesomeness: I don't know about the monetary risk of the set, but I doubt it would be hard to recoup your money with this set. I have bought and sold many graded cards from this set (PSA and BGS) and have almost always sold them for cost or above cost, so my personal history is good with this set from that standpoint. As for awesomeness, I don't think this set could be beat. From the colors and design to the awesome HOF RC checklist it is dripping awesome. Another reason I think this set should be appealing is because it is a relatively small set. As other posters have mentioned, set building can be fun, it can also be tedious if you have to find 300 to 600 commons to make the set (as with the baseball sets).
As a personal reference, when I got back in the hobby a couple years ago, I also decided to build a PSA set. I chose the 1961 Fleer basketball set. Like the 86 Fleer set it is loaded with HOF RC's and has a cool design. It is also only 66 cards so each card gets me 1.5% to completion so the goal never seems out of reach. I am only 6 cards away now and I couldn't be happier with my choice. And now, I am actually embarking on a 1986 Fleer set as we speak!
As others have already mentioned, do not do the 1990 Upper Deck set. You can only lose money on that. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Please do post updates in a "watch me build a set" thread for whatever set you decide. While some may not want to follow along, they don't have to click on your thread. I, for one, love to see different collectors post their pick ups and collections as it inspires me in my collection. Best of luck!
Mike
btw: it was Dave Madison #366 and still no 5 on ebay right now....
<< <i>As long as there is a sports card hobby, Mantles, Mays, Aarons, Ruths, etc. will all be desired, even in the most beat up conditions. Even with a strong hobby, the VAST majority of commons are not really on anyone's want list, except for the limited number of collectors that are building team or complete sets. Maybe I'm wrong but I just don't believe that number is all that high. >>
I think 52 topps goes right in w/ your mantles, mays, aarons, ruths. it's a classic and always has and will be in demand. even commons.
<< <i>One thing to keep in mind with set building, as opposed to say star card, HOFer, HOF RC, or other such broad/high-demand card collecting is that a fully graded set's commons often have a relatively thin pool of buyers. This can make reselling or just general appreciation a bit tougher than with, for example, the key card of a widely collected star. Another aspect of graded set building worth keeping in mind is that low pop/high grade commons are also very volatile; they may spike when there is a moment of heavy competition within a set, or when new collectors enter a set, but they are also subject to precipitous price drops if buyers leave the pool or if more specimens are graded.
An alternative method of set building that mitigates the above risks from a financial standpoint, is to build the set with raw commons that fit your desired eye appeal or grade profile, while doing all the HOFers or key cards in whatever grade you desire. This allows for less outlay on the riskier components of the set. As someone who has built a few graded sets, I can also attest to how the daily enjoyment of hundreds of slabbed commons becomes somewhat unwieldy and impractical, of course depending on one's display capabilities. I have found a good old binder to be a great way to enjoy commons, and the smaller outlay on commons can allow for higher quality examples of the key cards (which are usually where the awesomeness is at; for example I love certain 1952 and 1975 commons, but always look at Mantle, Berra, Mays, Robinson, Brett, Yount, etc., first and last when enjoying the set).
I think sets with enduring, widespread popularity are, among others: T206, 1914/15 Cracker Jacks, 1933 Goudey, 1952 Topps, 1967 Topps, 1971 Topps, 1975 Topps Regular and Mini, 1986 Fleer Basketball-- and of course there are many others that people favor for a variety of reasons. The PreWar space is noteworthy because there is not as great a chance of many new Cracker Jack Cobbs, Shoeless Joes, or Mathewsons popping up as there are say 1975 cards.
In the end, every set has its star power and the aesthetic of a set's design is a very personal choice, as is what we each find awesome. Above all, what matters is that the collector love what he/she is collecting and building more than anyone else. If you choose attractive examples (in any grade) to build any set, they will surely appeal to that set's collectors and fans upon any potential future resale.
I would encourage you to get familiar with VintageCardPrices.com, so you can accurately gauge what certain cards in certain states of eye appeal and grade have sold for in the past; it is a helpful tool, though by no means a static price guide or bible (not every completed sale on ebay is entirely legitimate).
Anyways, hope all that helps. >>
+1
I like the advice of getting some key HOFs and seeing what clicks. I've recently started registry sets for a few of my favorite players from 4 sports and a HOF Cowboys RC set, and they're all mostly attainable, and because I love the players I don't trip when I pay the price. But I do like the idea of complete sets so have also recently been buying raw sets. I don't have space for graded sets, and like others have said, chasing low pop commons and paying prices for players I don't know, just isn't for me. Lastly, FWIW I'd suggest going with something you really like. If you prefer the 60 set go for it. While the 52 is great and iconic, you still seem to even prefer 53. So while I totally get protecting an exit, make sure you still dig what you're doing.
Best of luck, whatever you decide.
Jim
But I really think that early 70s is next to go up. Collectors of that era are now in there 50s, kids just about out of college, etc. though not a fan I think 72 holds a lot of nostalgia for that time frame.
<< <i>I would start a HOF set from the various sports in a PSA 8 grade. >>
Love this suggestion - exactly my experience - I got back into things this way, then decided which set(s) I really liked and wanted.
My ebay name is ILikeToParty1002 if anyone is bored and wants to check them out. Hope I didn't break any riles posting my ebay name, if I did my apologies please erase. Anyways, I bought these hockey cards for like $60 about ten years ago so I'm happy if I get $400. I'll dump that $400 or whatever right back into the cards and then I'll spend around $100 every Friday on more.
Thanks again guys so glad to have found this forum
Probably will not agree with my choices however the prices are much more reasonable to put together and have very KEY CARD the 55 Topps with rookies of Clemente,Koufax and Killibrew rookies plus other hall of famers .Its only 206 cards but IMO they are very colorful.
The 54 Topps with the Aaron,Kaline,and Banks and Lasorda Rookies with only 250 cards.
To the folks who mentioned the 75s and not liking them.i actually like them however there are much more of that product that we are led to believe,especially on the mini end.The quality control on the minis are poor and there has not been a price movement of any significance on them.
Good luck on you adventure.
Kiss me twice.....let's party.
<< <i>
<< <i>I would start a HOF set from the various sports in a PSA 8 grade. >>
Love this suggestion - exactly my experience - I got back into things this way, then decided which set(s) I really liked and wanted. >>
This is what I've been doing. RC's of HOFers that I grew up watching. Cheaper ones I'll go for in a PSA 9 and some of the big ones like Michael Jordan, OPC Gretzky, Bird/Magic, I'll take a PSA 7 or an 8(OC). No 10's yet. I enjoy buying raw and seeing how they grade out, except for some of the risky cards like MJ. It's been a lot of fun and they are readily available on ebay so there's lots of auctions to watch.
Awesomeness is a subjective term. Some guys find the 86 Fleer set awesome; others find it hideous. Others go nuts for 75 minis (you know who you are), and others get off on sniffing unopened packs (Hi Mike). If by awesome, you mean strong collecting demand within the hobby then I think there have been some good suggestions here.
If, at the end of the day, your key objective is a return on your investment, then a few quick thoughts:
1) I would stay away from building sets. Too costly and eats into your margins. Buying an already-assembled set can be profitable, especially if you break it apart
2) Focus on key cards. (meaning key players or key sets that have a strong following in the set registry). In other words, sets and players that people will want to buy. And then buy what you can afford. And within that grade, buy the very nicest copy you can afford. DO NOT just buy the holder. Also, don't be afraid to pay a premium or be too beholden to VCP. Time and again, I see people paying very strong premiums to VCP for a given grade (including me) because of the eye appeal of a card.
3) If you truly are in it for investment purposes, be willing to sell a card when you get a good price. Try not to get emotionally attached to your card. After all, there is no gain unless you sell.
4) If you're only wanting to collect for the fun of it, ignore all of the above. Some people collect for the pure love of the cardboard and will never sell (and even if they did, they don't care about a return). One of the things I love about this board is that there is a blend of both. Some of the guys are real purists here (love the card, know everything about the card/set, and want to pass it along to their kids), and I really respect that about them.
<< <i>I found a few 1910c56 hockey cards I've had for a while and put them up on eBay. They end this Saturday and I'm Hopin to get around $400 for the lot maybe and I'm gonna decide by then which direction I'm going and then start buying.
My ebay name is ILikeToParty1002 if anyone is bored and wants to check them out. Hope I didn't break any riles posting my ebay name, if I did my apologies please erase. Anyways, I bought these hockey cards for like $60 about ten years ago so I'm happy if I get $400. I'll dump that $400 or whatever right back into the cards and then I'll spend around $100 every Friday on more.
Thanks again guys so glad to have found this forum >>
In general, it's best to keep this type of post in the BST (Buy/Sell/Trade) forum, you'll get much better response there with a title like 'FS: 1910 C56 Hockey on Ebay ending tonight'. You can also include a link to your eBay auctions in your signature and won't get anyone upset.
The BST is a good place to try to sell prior to posting on eBay if you want to avoid the eBay fees as well. Many are willing to work with Paypal gift once you have some transactions under your belt here and avoid fees entirely.
FR-GD t206 Set (minus the big 4)
EX 1949 Bowman Set
EX 1952 Topps Set (Mantle in GD)
NM 1955 Bowman Set
NM 1957 Topps Set
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." Dr. Seuss
<< <i>
<< <i>I found a few 1910c56 hockey cards I've had for a while and put them up on eBay. They end this Saturday and I'm Hopin to get around $400 for the lot maybe and I'm gonna decide by then which direction I'm going and then start buying.
My ebay name is ILikeToParty1002 if anyone is bored and wants to check them out. Hope I didn't break any riles posting my ebay name, if I did my apologies please erase. Anyways, I bought these hockey cards for like $60 about ten years ago so I'm happy if I get $400. I'll dump that $400 or whatever right back into the cards and then I'll spend around $100 every Friday on more.
Thanks again guys so glad to have found this forum >>
In general, it's best to keep this type of post in the BST (Buy/Sell/Trade) forum, you'll get much better response there with a title like 'FS: 1910 C56 Hockey on Ebay ending tonight'. You can also include a link to your eBay auctions in your signature and won't get anyone upset.
The BST is a good place to try to sell prior to posting on eBay if you want to avoid the eBay fees as well. Many are willing to work with Paypal gift once you have some transactions under your belt here and avoid fees entirely. >>
Awesome thanks a lot. Gonna check out that forum as well. Thanks again
Welcome to the boards.
I'm an amateur collector and staying that way.
I have found from experience when I treat this purely as a hobby, I have fun. Otherwise it seems too much like work.
Jmaciu's Collection
- 90 UD just forget about- there's no way spending $7500+ on that set will ever pay off in the long run. At around 50% complete you'll wonder why they hell you're doing it and start questioning your existence. At around 90% you'll find yourself digging through commons boxes looking for a sharp Luis Polonia and might decide that swallowing a pint of bleach is a better alternative.
- If you like the 60 Topps bb set in PSA 8 I say go for it, just know you're going to be spending $400+ on several low pop commons.
- 52 Topps is a no-brainer if you have the dough, it will always have tremendous collector appeal and hold its value.
Some other fun ideas:
- 63 Fleer baseball in PSA 8
- 93 Finest baseball in PSA 10- If you have to do a modern one, this is a good choice. Small set, won't hurt your pocket too bad.
- Any one of the 70s basketball sets in PSA 9- all relatively cheap compared to other sports
- 1980-81 basketball in PSA 9. Harder than you think but manageable over 2-3 years.
- 1984 Topps football in PSA 9 or 10- the most loaded football set of all time.
This is hilarious.
<< <i>I am totally surprised the 1956 Topps (only set that year) isn't getting any love! 340 cards plus 2 checklists and NM is very doable. Check it out. >>
I agree (maybe I'm biased because I'm currently working on the set), however, its a great set, and I'm doing it in PSA7. Commons can be had between $15-$25 a piece usually. The only caveat is if you are trying to do the set centered. Its a tough nut to crack then. I've been working on it off and on for about 3 years and am 20% complete. I put a 10 year timeline on finishing it. I do get sidetracked to vintage unopened (my other focus) though
I think the important thing to do is to pick a set you like with players that you know or want to learn more about. Keep within your budget and while I'm doing a set in PSA7 there is nothing wrong with doing it raw and displaying it in a binder. I agree, though, that the key cards should probably be graded.
While I anticipate never selling my set when its complete, I assume if I did that I would probably lose money. So be it. I don't care. Its my labor of love.
Jeremy
1) 1956 Topps PSA 6 to 7 - decided i wanted to put together a 1956 set because i always liked the design and the player selection. initially started raw set but quickly went to graded because it was easier to ensure some levels of "uniformity" around corners, creases, etc. decided on spa 6 initially but then went to 6/7 combo, the higher grades really start getting expensive so this was a good compromise. it's over 300 cards so it's no easy task in any sort of grade, and there are quite a few more difficult commons/semi-stars in 6+ grades than i originally anticipated. i'm down to final 20 or so but the pace has slowed considerably.
2) 1952 Topps raw set - not quite halfway through this, no mantle or mays or robinson yet, and kind of lost interest in it to be honest. i know this is one of the "no brainer" sets to collect, but i've had trouble holding interest in it especially for centered commons and there's also the trimming concern. plus i have no high numbers yet, and while i understand they're rare i just can't wrap my head around $100+ for decent looking commons. not sure if i'll finish this or not, it's certainly far down the list now even though i did hit it hard early on.
3) 1986 Fleer basketball plus stickers PSA 9 - 10s are just too expensive for me and MJ is probably $10k in a 10, but 9 is nice challenge and won't break the bank and there are some tough ones like dominique that you can buy most anytime but have to patient to get at a good price. in the process of doing this, i bought some lots and have started a 2nd set that's a 8/9 mix. i'm under 10 cards to complete each one.
4) 1993 Finest basketball refractors raw - i think these are cool and they're the original refractors. raw set can be had for under $1k if you're patient and there are some "shorter printed" cards that are a little difficult to run down - not expensive, they're just a little hard to find.
5) 1996-97 Chrome basketball refractors raw - decided i wanted a multi-year project with no clear budget and this was the winner. i have literally no idea what a set ought to be worth, i just know these cards are really hard to find in any sort of quantity and prices are all over the board. we'll see if i can stick with it, but putting this set together is clearly going to be a long haul challenge.
overall for investment, i think the suggestions to do the HOF rookie cards is pretty good advice. if you treat those cards like they are investments from the start, and make sure you've done your pricing research, i think you could do well in the long run.
as far as sets for investments, i think you've really got to keep it to highly desired sets and i would challenge whether much of anything from the 60s or 70s would qualify as this, yet anyway. while a say 1965 set in some high grade may be more difficult to do, it's also a lot harder to sell. there are always buyer for things like the 33 goudeys and 52 topps because they are the iconic cards. and while there aren't as many buyers for commons, i'm convinced there is a good premium for a complete set of these types due to how long and how hard it would take to put them together in the first place almost regardless of budget.
i've enjoyed reading the ideas so far, and good luck to you with whatever you decide to pursue
"looking good, lewis! feeling good, billy ray!"
<< <i>I am totally surprised the 1956 Topps (only set that year) isn't getting any love! 340 cards plus 2 checklists and NM is very doable. Check it out. >>
It's my current project so didn't want to encourage more competition
My favorite set next to 75!