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Where to start negotiations

I read this forum daily but don't post often.
Just a quick question. Where do you start negotiations on a card or piece of memorabilia at a show? Half of the asking price? 75% of the asking price? 10% percent? I do most of my buying on Ebay, but I do go to about 2 shows a year including the national this year. I often times get intimidated by the negotiating aspect of buying. I don't want to tick off the dealer but of course I want to get the best price I can for an item.

Comments

  • eagles33eagles33 Posts: 2,683 ✭✭✭
    I would use completed listings that actually sold on eBay as a benchmark. There are eBay fees but there is also a cost to set up at a show so I don't bother trying to adjust for the fees.
    Scans of most of my Misc rookies can be found <a target=new class=ftalternatingbarlinklarge href="http://forums.collectors.com/m...y&keyword1=Non%20major">here
  • itzagoneritzagoner Posts: 8,753 ✭✭
    use the ACME Super Rocket Powered Dealer Negotiation Kit. image

    re: The National - simple logic tells me that in most cases you'll have better luck earning a deal on Sunday during tear down, which some dealers do quite early.
  • mrmint23mrmint23 Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭
    Spend some time talking with the dealer. Then politely ask what is the least you can take for this card?
  • EchoCanyon Thanks for the link. I especially like number 5. I'm following other links in the article.

    Eagles33 I do look on Ebay completed sales most of the time (I got burned bad one time not doing that) and figure in that I am looking at the item in person, but a lot of time the items are priced 50%+ above those numbers. That's when I over think and think if I offer this guy 10% above ebay he's going to be insulted. I completely understand that the guy has to make a profit but I don't want him to make all his profit on me.
  • DanBessetteDanBessette Posts: 6,421 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Spend some time talking with the dealer. Then politely ask what is the least you can take for this card? >>



    What he said. Or, "if I buy these other things too, what's the best package price you can offer me?"
  • mtcardsmtcards Posts: 3,340 ✭✭✭
    Offer 80% of what your BEST offer is. If the dealer takes it, you have gotten a substantial discount, if he counters higher than what your best offer would be, then offer your best offer. If he takes it, then you still got it for the price you were willing to pay, if he declines, then walk away. Lowballing tends to let the dealer know you arent serious (even if you are) and a high asking price by the dealer lets you know that he isnt serious about selling.
    IT IS ALWAYS CHEAPER TO NOT SELL ON EBAY
  • eagles33eagles33 Posts: 2,683 ✭✭✭
    If 10% above completed listing insults the dealer I would walk away anyways. Anyone is entitled to set whatever price they want.. I consider the completed eBay prices fair market value. In most cases I don't see any point in paying much more than fair market value. If it's a rare card or memorabilia then that's a different story.. But if it is something that has a few cometed listing a month then I would just offer much or just buy it on eBay.
    Scans of most of my Misc rookies can be found <a target=new class=ftalternatingbarlinklarge href="http://forums.collectors.com/m...y&keyword1=Non%20major">here
  • bbuckner22bbuckner22 Posts: 1,028


    << <i>EchoCanyon Thanks for the link. I especially like number 5. >>


    This actually made me laugh out loud
    From what I can tell, 707 is the DOLLAR STORE compared to deans_cards. For what that guy charges, if I ever bought anything from him I would expect it to be delivered to me in a frickin' limo.
    ~WalterSobchak
  • digicatdigicat Posts: 8,551 ✭✭


    << <i>Spend some time talking with the dealer. Then politely ask what is the least you can take for this card? >>



    So make the dealer counter his own asking price as the first move?
    My Giants collection want list

    WTB: 2001 Leaf Rookies & Stars Longevity: Ryan Jensen #/25
  • LarkinCollectorLarkinCollector Posts: 8,975 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Offer 80% of what your BEST offer is. If the dealer takes it, you have gotten a substantial discount, if he counters higher than what your best offer would be, then offer your best offer. If he takes it, then you still got it for the price you were willing to pay, if he declines, then walk away. Lowballing tends to let the dealer know you arent serious (even if you are) and a high asking price by the dealer lets you know that he isnt serious about selling. >>


    +1
  • vols1vols1 Posts: 793 ✭✭✭
    First off, don't worry about ticking off the dealer. Some(actually many) just arn't people persons. The last hour of the day is the time to go to get the better deals. Some(many) dealers only want to work part-time, so come two o'clock they are ready to start packing up. And some(many) don't even like setting up at shows, so the less merchandise they have the better.
  • thunderdanthunderdan Posts: 3,036 ✭✭✭
    Realizing that everyone has their own style of course, and many here have gone to National many more times than I, here's what has worked fairly well for me at National so far:

    1) Don't take anything personally. Remove emotion from the negotiation.
    2) Be willing to walk away if you don't get a price that you want and feel is fair. I've walked away a lot more times than I've purchase. A lot.
    3) Pay with Cash. Cash definitely talks at National.
    4) Go back to a dealer at the end of the show and if that card is still there (but he didn't agree to your price previously), try him again
    5) Get to know the dealer a little bit. Having some personal rapport always helps. Nobody wants to sell their cards to a douchebag.
    6) Don't belittle their methods. They might use Beckett to price which isn't true to reality, but as long as you've done your homework, it will show. Having real price points from eBay helps a lot. If you have a tablet, you can even look it up on VCP right there.

    image


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