opinions please on my card investment ideas

balco758

All, I have not posted in several years but am grateful for this board and a great set of guys.

I am looking to pick up some of the cards below and would welcome opinions on ones with best upside potential next 5-10 years. I listed the grades because this is my likely price range. Discounting the cost to buy, which 3-4 cards do you see with most upside?

54 Aaron PSA 2
80 Rickey PSA 9
73 Schmidt PSA 8
86 Jordan PSA 7
71 Thurm PSA 8
Staubach Rookie PSA 7-8
Namath Rookie PSA 5
Brett/Yount PSA 9
Ripken Traded PSA 9/10
Bird/Magic PSA 8

Thanks for any feedback.

Steve

mattyc_collection

If you exercise great patience and selectivity, and choose centered examples that are more attractive than others in the grade, all will go as the overall market goes. Those are all cards with high demand that one should never really take a bath on if one buys the card and pays anywhere close to VCP average. All are safe buys and should do well.

My one possible suggestion would be to drop the Munson down to a 7 or 7.5 and use the extra funds to land a better Aaron, Jordan, or Bird Magic. The Munson is a classic, but does have a significantly thinner market than those others.

charrigan

For "investment" purposes, put your money in an index fund and avoid sports memorabilia altogether.

If you just wanted a cool card, Brett 9!

DanBessette

<< <i>If you exercise great patience and selectivity, and choose centered examples that are more attractive than others in the grade, all will go as the overall market goes. Those are all cards with high demand that one should never really take a bath on if one buys the card and pays anywhere close to VCP average. All are safe buys and should do well.

My one possible suggestion would be to drop the Munson down to a 7 or 7.5 and use the extra funds to land a better Aaron, Jordan, or Bird Magic. The Munson is a classic, but does have a significantly thinner market than those others. >>



This is all great advice. Getting that 54 Aaron in a 3 or 4 will be HUGE!

bishop

<< <i>For "investment" purposes, put your money in an index fund and avoid sports memorabilia altogether.

If you just wanted a cool card, Brett 9! >>



+ 1, but - Brett

jmoran19

from the late 60's and up I personally would avoid PSA 7's and lower. Still a lot of unopened material out there and if most LT collectors are like me I only send in cards that look like an 8 or higher. I would also only invest in the key 70's cards that have a low pop for 8's, example 1971 Thurman Munson and 1976 George Brett.

Finally only spend what you can afford to lose.

Dad

BruceinGa

<< <i>from the late 60's and up I personally would avoid PSA 7's and lower.

Finally only spend what you can afford to lose.

Dad >>



+1

Dusto

Purchase them in that grade because you want to own them, but in those grades I wouldn't necessarily call it investment grade. I would've been partial to the Brett PSA 9 before it tripled in price the last couple of years. My general rule of thumb for my personal collection is at least a PSA 9 for any 1970's star player or rookie and PSA 10 of anything in the 80's. That way you know you will never take a bath, they have upside in pricing, and most importantly, they sure are pretty to look at as well.

Jakt

From a purely investment perspective, the top two cards would be the 54 Aaron and the 86 Jordan. Get the highest grades you can afford.

BobH

<< <i>Purchase them in that grade because you want to own them, but in those grades I wouldn't necessarily call it investment grade. I would've been partial to the Brett PSA 9 before it tripled in price the last couple of years. My general rule of thumb for my personal collection is at least a PSA 9 for any 1970's star player or rookie and PSA 10 of anything in the 80's. That way you know you will never take a bath, they have upside in pricing, and most importantly, they sure are pretty to look at as well. >>



Good advice I think for investment purposes. i also like the idea that was mentioned of trying to find the best example of a grade for 50's and 60's cards.Obviously PSA 9's for those are prohibitive for most of us. i find it quite enjoyable to search for that PSA 6 or 7 50's and 60's cards that are centered with nice corners that may have a small surface dimple or print problem.

mattyc_collection

<< <i>

<< <i> i find it quite enjoyable to search for that PSA 6 or 7 50's and 60's cards that are centered with nice corners that may have a small surface dimple or print problem. >>



Exactly-- and make no mistake, such specimens will increase in value as well. There is a very broad market for cards in more affordable grades that also have great eye appeal.

ashabby

My rule of them is. Buy one card at a time you like then move to the next one.
1990 to now 9 or 10 grade
1960 to 80 lowest 8
1950 lowest 6

mattyc_collection

I think each card needs to be evaluated on its own merits, and to dismiss any card before looking at it, just because it is below a certain numerical grade, is a big mistake. For example, I can show you cards from the 1960's in PSA 6 holders that are superior to the eye to PSA 8s. I can show you cards from the 1950's in PSA 4 and 5 that look better than 7s. Cards from the 1970s in PSA 9 that look better than 10s. There's no right or wrong way to collect, but one will miss out on many beautiful and desirable cards if one dismisses entire grades.

I'd also like to add that if one buys strictly for numerical grade and the card does not hit the eye well, it will not necessarily perform as well upon sale as another card with the same grade and much better eye appeal. In fact, a low end card in Grade X can often sell for considerably less than a card in the next grade down that crushes it in the eye appeal department. So if one merely buys the grade and sees a much better example in the same grade sell for a bundle, one can't necessarily expect the worse looking one with the same grade to command the same price. This is just food for thought before making a purchase.

vintagefun

Buy the card not the grade! To start ruling cards out based on the number given, is a mistake. Deals can be had at all grades.

As said previously, if looking for good investment, look elsewhere.

If you love the cards, and are buying for that love, but with a hope of increased value over time, look for good deals on cards that present well.

Have a list of wants and a ballpark budget and keep your eyes on eBay and the BST and you'll be surprised what you can find.

Take a look at my What's a Grand Getcha Thread and you'll see that good deals can be had.

Good Luck
Jim

ThoseBackPages

<< <i>I think each card needs to be evaluated on its own merits, and to dismiss any card before looking at it, just because it is below a certain numerical grade, is a big mistake. For example, I can show you cards from the 1960's in PSA 6 holders that are superior to the eye to PSA 8s. I can show you cards from the 1950's in PSA 4 and 5 that look better than 7s. Cards from the 1970s in PSA 9 that look better than 10s. There's no right or wrong way to collect, but one will miss out on many beautiful and desirable cards if one dismisses entire grades.

I'd also like to add that if one buys strictly for numerical grade and the card does not hit the eye well, it will not necessarily perform as well upon sale as another card with the same grade and much better eye appeal. In fact, a low end card in Grade X can often sell for considerably less than a card in the next grade down that crushes it in the eye appeal department. So if one merely buys the grade and sees a much better example in the same grade sell for a bundle, one can't necessarily expect the worse looking one with the same grade to command the same price. This is just food for thought before making a purchase. >>




THIS. THIS. THIS. THIS. and finally, THIS!

its taken me a long time to heed the "buy the card, not the holder" advice that ive been told for longer than i can remember.

60sfan

<< <i>Purchase them in that grade because you want to own them, but in those grades I wouldn't necessarily call it investment grade. I would've been partial to the Brett PSA 9 before it tripled in price the last couple of years. My general rule of thumb for my personal collection is at least a PSA 9 for any 1970's star player or rookie and PSA 10 of anything in the 80's. That way you know you will never take a bath, they have upside in pricing, and most importantly, they sure are pretty to look at as well. >>


100% agree!

ClockworkAngel

Absolutely agree with the "buy the card, not the grade" approach.

Here's where I would go:

54 Aaron PSA 2
80 Rickey PSA 9
73 Schmidt PSA 8 or 9
86 Jordan PSA 8 or 9
Namath Rookie PSA 5
Brett/Yount PSA 9
Bird/Magic PSA 9

I don't put the Munson, Staubach or Ripken on the same field as the others. And if there's anything that has been a sure fire investment, it's the high grade iconic cards of the hobby. Most of which you covered. But the Mint copies are the ones that will always have the highest demand. It's more of an investment, but a better return.

Only ones I'd also consider not listed are the Gretzky OPC rookie, Walter Payton RC, Joe Montana RC, a Clemente rookie, and a Nolan Ryan RC.

ReggieCleveland

One word.... plastics.

handyman

You should throw in a Pre 1940s card in there to give you an extra taste of the hobby.
Cant go wrong with a Cobb or Ruth in the mix.
Happy hunting

mattyc_collection

What he said right above, if that's possible: Ruth, Cobb, Shoeless, Gehrig, Mantle, these are the rockstar names you cannot go wrong with. Given the choice, for both wow factor and investment, I'd roll with an old card and then fewer of those newer ones. Any collection can have a nice looking Jordan, Brett, Yount, or Ripken. Goudey or US Caramel Ruths, or Goudey Gehrigs, or say a T206 Cobb, those aren't rare by any means but they are scarcer than those newer cards by far.

TheCARDKid

I would take out the thurmon munson and the staubach. I would put in something pre war (cobb, ruth or gehrig) or maybe a mantle from the 50's or 60's.

Eye appeal is everything. There are probably many 80 Topps Rickys that people pass on in PSA 9 because the eye appeal isn't there. Be picky. Wait, wait, wait. Look at many before pulling the trigger. This way you buy the card, not the holder.

Always buy the highest grade you can afford. A 52 Topps Mantle PSA 10 or 80 Bird/Magic PSA 10 have appreciated much faster than a collection of those cards in lower grades. Say, a collection of bird magics in a 6 or 7.

Another idea is an early 50's football hof rookie. They seem extremely cheap relative to baseball or a mint george mikan rookie or bill russell.