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Help ID a very large coin please

I would like to know what this is and value. I inherited it from my father who passed away.

(yes it is over 2" across)

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Comments

  • BailathaclBailathacl Posts: 1,011 ✭✭✭
    Looks like an Austrian 3 Thaler coin of Ferdinand III, KM-877 perhaps? (Then again, I've been wrong before....)

    "The Internet? Is that thing still around??" - Homer Simpson
  • trozautrozau Posts: 3,455 ✭✭✭
    Maybe the taler collector Mr Z can chime in.
    trozau (troy ounce gold)
  • STLNATSSTLNATS Posts: 1,597 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Looks like an Austrian 3 Thaler coin of Ferdinand III, KM-877 perhaps? (Then again, I've been wrong before....) >>



    Seems close but weight would be helpful to confirm the denom. Is it the Graz mint (lion facing left in the little oval on the top center of the arms on the reverse)? Zohar will probably be able to id without looking it up.

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    Always interested in St Louis MO & IL metro area and Evansville IN national bank notes and Vatican/papal states coins and medals!
  • ZoharZohar Posts: 6,629 ✭✭✭✭✭
    To me looks like DAV-291. Herinek-341. Austria. Graz Mint. Double Taler depicting Ferdinand III.

    I may see an overdate from here around the "1".

    Should be 59mm or so and weigh 57 grams. Looks good from here, but worth checking.

  • ZoharZohar Posts: 6,629 ✭✭✭✭✭


  • << <i>To me looks like DAV-291. Herinek-341. Austria. Graz Mint. Double Taler depicting Ferdinand III.

    I may see an overdate from here around the "1".

    Should be 59mm or so and weigh 57 grams. Looks good from here, but worth checking. >>




    Well thank you for that!

    Yes it weighs 57 grams.. I weighed it on my gram scale.

    But I do not know what you mean by an "overdate" around the 1? Sorry but I am a newb when it comes to coins.
  • ZoharZohar Posts: 6,629 ✭✭✭✭✭
    See (preferably with magnifying glass) if the date is overstruck with another number in particular, under the "41". At times they used prior dies changing just the date yet it left the mark.
  • Here are two other coins I could use help with:

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  • ZoharZohar Posts: 6,629 ✭✭✭✭✭
    1st is a Charles VI Breslau Mint Taler. The other seems to be a Joseph I Graz as well.


  • << <i>Forgot - pricing - LINK >>



    According to the link you sent me the coin sold for $2169 USD.

    where would I go to advertise the coin.. I am interested in selling.

    Any tips , help , advice , what site to go or how much I could expect to get would be greatly appreciated!
  • ZoharZohar Posts: 6,629 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Depends how much you want to "work" hard at it. Pricing is driven by grade - here is another that sold for less - LINK
    If you want to maximize value, you should send it to be authenticated/graded by either PCGS/NGC and then offer it via Heritage. Problem is that there is time and cost involved as well as fees for selling in auction, especially as you have a smaller consignment.
    Alternatively, list on ebay or offer it on the Buy, Sell and Trade forum on this board.
  • ZoharZohar Posts: 6,629 ✭✭✭✭✭
    If you want to reach out for further explanation (if this does not make sense or is not clear) either send me a private message through the forum board or contact me through here - LINK
  • lordmarcovanlordmarcovan Posts: 43,194 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Zohar is definitely the guy you wanna talk to about these. image

    Explore collections of lordmarcovan on CollecOnline, management, safe-keeping, sharing and valuation solution for art piece and collectibles.
  • worldcoinguyworldcoinguy Posts: 2,999 ✭✭✭✭
    Hi and welcome to the forum. These are not your average "what do I have" pieces.......did your dad have any paperwork indicating where they came from? He was quite an advanced collector to have something of that magnitude.


  • << <i>Hi and welcome to the forum. These are not your average "what do I have" pieces.......did your dad have any paperwork indicating where they came from? He was quite an advanced collector to have something of that magnitude. >>




    Nope. He was not a "collector" . When I was a child (I am 55 now) I saw these coins and they always remained in the boxes. The same ones and he never did anything with them except sit in the attic.

    I have more of them.. .. ancient and european ones..

    I don't know where to start. So I have to start somewhere getting these Id'd. Appraisals won't work because they charge $200-$350 an hour. I am not doing that .
  • ..and I have no paperwork or anything to ID these coins as to what they are.
  • EVillageProwlerEVillageProwler Posts: 5,859 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Colubrid,

    I agree with WCG in that you seem to have some real collector-grade material. Just from the few pictures, they may be worth low 4-figures. I say *may* because it's hard to judge true quality (and thus value) from digital pictures. You should get these properly appraised by a numismatist, in person, who has knowledge of ancients as well as world coins.

    The problem is that you want these appraised on the cheap. There are two ways to achieve this: have a friend, or take them to a dealer with the sincere option to allow him to buy.

    Think of it as needing automotive or dental work...

    I guess you have a 3rd option: continue to post pictures here and we can do our best to give you feedback. But, nothing beats in-hand viewing because that is the best way to ascertain a coin's true quality.

    What may seem like insignificant or nuanced differences between two very similar coins to the untrained eye may be very significant to an expert.

    EVP

    How does one get a hater to stop hating?

    I can be reached at evillageprowler@gmail.com

  • worldcoinguyworldcoinguy Posts: 2,999 ✭✭✭✭
    Well said EVP. I think many of us would gladly volunteer a couple hours of my time to sit and review the collection in person if it were close to us. Most around here would offer advice out of pure curiosity and love of the hobby. You describe a modern day mini-hoard that has been squirreled away in a box in the attic for decades. Use this forum as a starting point to as least gauge a rough estimate of what you have before you make the leap on a divestiture strategy. Perhaps more pictures would help. This is a good place for some soft guidance and opinions.

  • TookybanditTookybandit Posts: 3,410 ✭✭✭✭
    Get multiple opinions, don't take the first offer you get (you can always revisit), and absolutely have them certified by PCGS or NGC. Coins valued at $500+ should be certified to maximize their potential when you decide to sell.


  • << <i>Get multiple opinions, don't take the first offer you get (you can always revisit), and absolutely have them certified by PCGS or NGC. Coins valued at $500+ should be certified to maximize their potential when you decide to sell. >>



    Does that cost anything to get them certified? What purpose does that serve for selling?


    :






  • BailathaclBailathacl Posts: 1,011 ✭✭✭
    Another word of caution as you are not a collector: Resist any urge to clean any coins, it will severely damage them as collector pieces and diminish their value greatly. Resist the urge to handle them, and ideally only holding the coins by their edges if at all. Avoid any contact that could result in scratches or marring of the surface of any coin -- banging against other coins, staples, elastic bands, etc. can cause unintended harm. Your mystery and challenge with these coins is the envy of many who share this hobby, good luck in your process.
    "The Internet? Is that thing still around??" - Homer Simpson
  • TookybanditTookybandit Posts: 3,410 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>
    Does that cost anything to get them certified? What purpose does that serve for selling? >>




    It does cost $45 per coin for PCGS Secure and $35 for NGC. These are two different companies that are both regarded as the best in the industry. Some people prefer one over the other. You also will need to pay a membership fee to submit coins directly for grading, or use the dealer locator to find a dealer nearest you to submit your coins.

    Certifying coins puts them in protective holders and authenticates their level of preservation on a scale of 1 to 70 with 1 being barely identifiable and 70 being perfect as originally struck from the mint with zero flaws or defects.

    Certifying coins also gives potential buyers a level of comfort and security that they can trust the coins are genuine and the numerical grade given to the coin allows a buyer to have a solid frame of reference to determine a ball park value based on recent realized auction prices.

    Here are some helpful links:

    How to submit coins to PCGS

    How to submit coins to NGC
  • Thanks so much!
  • DorkGirlDorkGirl Posts: 9,994 ✭✭✭
    image
    Becky
  • illini420illini420 Posts: 11,466 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Very cool coins! Lots of detail left on them as well!!

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    If you aren't really into coins as you mentioned, going through the grading process and/or auction process is probably not something you're looking forward to. It seems like you can take relatively decent photos of the coins though. I would guess that if you just listed them on eBay (with the proper coin ID information given to you here) that you would get a fair price on them and you'd have your payment very quickly. Sure, if they grade just right by the grading companies you could get a higher price... but if they don't grade right you could maybe even get a lower price than selling them as is. If you don't sell on eBay or are uncomfortable doing so, there are plenty of forum members that take coins on consignment and can get them sold quickly for you.

    Good luck!!!

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