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Specific die markers for 1799 cents?

I know about the die chip under the E on Normal dates, but is there anything else to look for? I'm looking for markers that will still be visible on most dateless, corroded coins, I can't afford one with a date. Any hints about leaf/letter positioning on the reverse, for example?

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    LanceNewmanOCCLanceNewmanOCC Posts: 19,999 ✭✭✭✭✭
    .
    i'm willing to bet, of the many 1799 1c threads i've seen here, there are probably a couple with more diagnostic markers contained within image
    .

    <--- look what's behind the mask! - cool link 1/NO ~ 2/NNP ~ 3/NNC ~ 4/CF ~ 5/PG ~ 6/Cert ~ 7/NGC 7a/NGC pop~ 8/NGCF ~ 9/HA archives ~ 10/PM ~ 11/NM ~ 12/ANACS cert ~ 13/ANACS pop - report fakes 1/ACEF ~ report fakes/thefts 1/NCIS - Numi-Classes SS ~ Bass ~ Transcribed Docs NNP - clashed coins - error training - V V mm styles -

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    numismanumisma Posts: 3,877 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>I know about the die chip under the E on Normal dates, but is there anything else to look for? I'm looking for markers that will still be visible on most dateless, corroded coins, I can't afford one with a date. Any hints about leaf/letter positioning on the reverse, for example? >>



    Why not just buy an Poor, Fair or AG example that is already certified as genuine? Chances are, if you buy one on Ebay that is listed as a genuine 1799 and at a very good price, you will--in reality--have purchased a dateless 1798 (worth $10) for the bargain price of $500.

    As for the die markers, if the coin is dateless it will also be "die marker-less" as many of the die markers are not visible below F or VF. Similar reality for the leaf/letter positions, although it can be done
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    commoncents05commoncents05 Posts: 10,078 ✭✭✭
    Probably the easiest die marker is that there is a 1, 7, 9 and a second 9 below the bust on the obverse.

    -Paul
    Many Quality coins for sale at http://www.CommonCentsRareCoins.com
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    lkeigwinlkeigwin Posts: 16,887 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I have always used the position of the upper hair wave, just below the R in LIBERTY, as an excellent way of detecting fakes.

    The wave should be centered below the R, not left or right of it. Example of a genuine one is below.
    Lance.

    image
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    ColonelJessupColonelJessup Posts: 6,442 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I sent one into NGC for NoGrade F details, corroded, nicely (under the circumstances) recolored, a pleasing not-the-worst-we've-ever seen. They couldn't decode the impaired characteristics. I sent it to our hosts and it gennied.

    I gave it to Chris McCawley and he did better for me than what I'd first aspired to. Gordie Wrubel knows pennies. . image
    "People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." - Geo. Orwell
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    When I get mine, I plan to do it for less than $50, so I don't expect a date or it to already be attributed. I knew about the Liberty, but it is very weak to invisible on most corroded-out 1799s. Something, maybe, not so close to the rim?

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