Would someone mnd giving me some advice?

SteelyDan · January 28, 2014 10:42AM

I joined this thread at the suggestion of a friend of mine from another message board that is of an entirely different subject. Her husband who passed away about a year(?) ago was one of the earliest people to get into the card shows and such.

My question is this. I was fortunate enough to get a football player autographed card stamped 1/1. The player isn't a major star, but is a starter on a good team. I'm new so I'm unsure if I can tell you more or link the listing. I was just wondering what people knew about these cards. I have a bid of over $500.00 for it now. I have over 250 eBay transactions (most of them selling) and have 100% feedback. I'm sure I've described the card accurately, but would just like more info. on these cards.

It's a Topps Chrome Rookie Card. Do they only do 1/1 for one card every year, or is it just 1/1 for that particular player.

TIA

slum22 · January 28, 2014 10:59AM

It is likely 1/1 for that particular player. Most players have numerous variations of the same card with varying amounts of limited quantity. Some may be 1/1, 1/5, 1/25, 1/100 and on it goes. If you have a 1/1 and it is of a player with some interest you can get a decent sized sale from it. Good luck with your sale.

SteelyDan · January 28, 2014 11:18AM

<< It is likely 1/1 for that particular player. Most players have numerous variations of the same card with varying amounts of limited quantity. Some may be 1/1, 1/5, 1/25, 1/100 and on it goes. If you have a 1/1 and it is of a player with some interest you can get a decent sized sale from it. Good luck with your sale. >>

Thanks. I know about the other numerical type cards like you stated above. (This isn't aimed at you to be snarky or anything, it's just a general observation.) Some people are unscrupulous and will advertise card number 249 of 250 as the only one in the world or a 1/1. I don't do that. This is a legitimate 1/1.

Within ten hours of listing it I had three people offer me a buy it now price. The highest being $650. I turned them all down to ride out the sale. The guy who offered me $650 treated me like a rube. I'm not a sophisticated seller because I don't do this as a job, just a hobby, but I know something. I hate being treated like a complete fool. His attitude towards me makes me think it will fetch more than the $650 he offered. I listed it at $499.99 and it's had three separate bidders on it so far. It still has five days left.

I really appreciate your input, thanks.

maddux69 · January 28, 2014 11:30AM

If I had to guess based on previous sales of similar players, you are looking in the $1500 range. Make sure that you take all precautions shipping, insure it and see that it has signature confirmation.

orioles93 · January 28, 2014 11:35AM

<< If I had to guess based on previous sales of similar players, you are looking in the $1500 range. Make sure that you take all precautions shipping, insure it and see that it has signature confirmation. >>

This. Except I'm gonna say it finishes around $1000-1200

akuracy503 · January 28, 2014 11:41AM

Out of curiosity what card is it?

Great advice in previous posts.

SteelyDan · January 28, 2014 11:42AM

<< If I had to guess based on previous sales of similar players, you are looking in the $1500 range. Make sure that you take all precautions shipping, insure it and see that it has signature confirmation. >>

Thanks. I plan to insure it and I have it packed so the USPS guys could play basketball with it and not damage it. I intend to tell them it's fragile too. I was also planning on the signature confirmation too. The last thing I want to do is be scammed. This is highest priced item I've ever sold on eBay so I'm a little nervous.

BTW, how does insuring it work specifically. Let's say there's a fire in the delivery truck and the card is destroyed. The USPS guys will give the buyer at least what was salvageable. Is it the sellers or buyers responsibility to make the insurance claim? If it's the buyers do I have a number I have to give them on it.

Thanks.

BTW, I'm getting great answers and they are coming in faster than I thought. You guys are great. Thanks again,

Steely

Lefthander · January 28, 2014 11:57AM

Here is a link to the ebay auction:

Topps Chrome 1/1 Torrey Smith

vols1 · January 28, 2014 11:58AM

The item is the seller's responsibility until it reaches the buyer. And all items must be shipped with delivery confirmation.

CDsNuts · January 28, 2014 12:03PM

If it's the Torrey Smith RC that should be a $1500 card easy.

Lee

Lefthander · January 28, 2014 12:03PM

Hopefully the link will work this time!

Topps Chrome Torrey Smith 1/1 ebay auction

NickM · January 28, 2014 12:03PM

Over $250, it must be shipped with signature confirmation. If it ends up over $1000, I recommend shipping via registered mail, as it will be cheaper once you add in adequate insurance.

Nick

SteelyDan · January 28, 2014 12:05PM

<< Here is a link to the ebay auction:

Topps Chrome 1/1 Torrey Smith >>

The link doesn't work for me, but from the description you have there that's it.

SteelyDan · January 28, 2014 12:07PM

I just want to thank you all again. The second link works and that's the card. I promised my brother that if it goes over $1,500 I'd treat him to Red Lobster.

Lefthander · January 28, 2014 12:07PM

Jonathan (SteelyDan), my second try posting the link worked.

SteelyDan · January 28, 2014 12:33PM

BTW, I tweeted Torrey Smith and Joe Flacco with the link for the card.

jeffcbay · January 28, 2014 12:37PM

<< Over $250, it must be shipped with signature confirmation. If it ends up over $1000, I recommend shipping via registered mail, as it will be cheaper once you add in adequate insurance.

Nick >>

The problem with Registered Mail is that it's SOOOO SLOOOOOW... with cards like this one I ship them USPS Express Mail with Signature Confirmation and Tracking. In my opinion, the less time the parcel spends in the USPS's hands, the better.

hammered · January 29, 2014 4:52AM

You're doing well to ignore the offers. Those buyers know what it's worth and want to rip you off.

And I second the above poster regarding registered mail. I've had registered mail take two weeks or longer, and if this happens your buyer will be pissed. I'd package it well in lots of bubble wrap and mail it in a small priority flat rate box (with extra tape) and signature conf

Cakes · January 29, 2014 5:36AM

I like the idea of selling now while football is still hot.

GL and welcome to the boards.

Allen · January 29, 2014 5:43AM

That card is a superfractor. Leaving the term SUPERFRACTOR out of the title is going to cost you a good bit of traffic. Also leaving RC and ROOKIE out of the title probably deducts a little more traffic. I would consider ending the listing, amend the title and relist as a buy it now with best offer starting very high.

JHS5120 · January 29, 2014 6:15AM

<< That card is a superfractor. Leaving the term SUPERFRACTOR out of the title is going to cost you a good bit of traffic. Also leaving RC and ROOKIE out of the title probably deducts a little more traffic. I would consider ending the listing, amend the title and relist as a buy it now with best offer starting very high. >>

A big +1

LarkinCollector · January 29, 2014 6:23AM

<< That card is a superfractor. Leaving the term SUPERFRACTOR out of the title is going to cost you a good bit of traffic. Also leaving RC and ROOKIE out of the title probably deducts a little more traffic. I would consider ending the listing, amend the title and relist as a buy it now with best offer starting very high. >>

+1 on the omission of superfractor and rookie likely drawing less traffic, but once there's active bids I would feel unethical ending/relisting. Nothing more than my two cents....

calaban7 · January 29, 2014 7:25AM

<< That card is a superfractor. Leaving the term SUPERFRACTOR out of the title is going to cost you a good bit of traffic. Also leaving RC and ROOKIE out of the title probably deducts a little more traffic. I would consider ending the listing, amend the title and relist as a buy it now with best offer starting very high. >>

I agree with Allen here . ---- Sonny

SteelyDan · January 29, 2014 7:38AM

<< That card is a superfractor. Leaving the term SUPERFRACTOR out of the title is going to cost you a good bit of traffic. Also leaving RC and ROOKIE out of the title probably deducts a little more traffic. I would consider ending the listing, amend the title and relist as a buy it now with best offer starting very high. >>

Thanks, I didn't know they were called superfractors. It says refractor on the back and that's what I went by. Thanks that's good to know for the future and I can't believe I left "Rookie" off the description. :facepalm:

SteelyDan · January 29, 2014 7:41AM

I've got a Marcel Dareus Rookie refrractor that has a checkerboard type thing with little reflective squares. What are those called?

TIA

SteelyDan · January 29, 2014 8:11AM

This is what the Marcel Dareus card looks like:

[URL=http://s545.photobucket.com/user/Rfeynman/media/Untitled-2.png.html]

[/URL]

itzagoner · January 29, 2014 8:13AM

atomic refractor?

SteelyDan · January 29, 2014 8:27AM

<< atomic refractor? >>

Here's the back:

[URL=http://s545.photobucket.com/user/Rfeynman/media/Untit2led.png.html]

[/URL]

SteelyDan · January 29, 2014 9:46AM

BTW, if you wouldn't mind helping me with one more thing. What time of year is the hottest for football cards?

LarkinCollector · January 29, 2014 8:47PM

With no serial #, it has to be an Xfractor (base Chrome, base Refractor, orange Refractor, & Xfractors were the only unnumbered variations for that set). The best time to sell FB, anytime it's in the news (draft, pre-season, season).

tmgrnzx9r · January 29, 2014 9:15PM

Agreed that you should end the auction and restart it with superfractor and rookie card and rc in the title. And as stated above the other card you have is an xfractor. I didn't look, but do you have a scan of the back of the card showing the 1/1 stamping? My guess is that people are low balling you with offers since you put gold refractor in the tilts and are trying to take advantage of you. IMO Torrey has some upside as he is a deep threat out there!!

goraiders · January 29, 2014 10:59PM

<< That card is a superfractor. Leaving the term SUPERFRACTOR out of the title is going to cost you a good bit of traffic. Also leaving RC and ROOKIE out of the title probably deducts a little more traffic. I would consider ending the listing, amend the title and relist as a buy it now with best offer starting very high. >>

This is the best advice right here,no sense in leaving possibly a few hundred on the table..

dtkk49a · January 30, 2014 12:41AM

I think you can just edit the existing auction title without actually having to cancel the auction. I would also bidder block that guy who tried to lowball you.

SteelyDan · January 30, 2014 1:12AM

<< With no serial #, it has to be an Xfractor (base Chrome, base Refractor, orange Refractor, & Xfractors were the only unnumbered variations for that set). The best time to sell FB, anytime it's in the news (draft, pre-season, season). >>

Thanks LarkinCollector (I.E.Milton), thanks to the others for verifying the Dareus is an Xfractor. Unfortunately it's too late to stop the sale and restart it. Once bids have been placed if I stop the sale it will go to the highest bidder. You live you learn I guess. I'll just let it ride out.

Thank you all for your help.

mlbfan2 · January 30, 2014 1:27AM

<< Unfortunately it's too late to stop the sale and restart it. Once bids have been placed if I stop the sale it will go to the highest bidder. You live you learn I guess. I'll just let it ride out.
>>

You can cancel the bids and end the auction. You can do this once per calendar year for free. If you do it more than once, you'll have to pay a fee.

SteelyDan · January 30, 2014 1:33AM

<< 

<< Unfortunately it's too late to stop the sale and restart it. Once bids have been placed if I stop the sale it will go to the highest bidder. You live you learn I guess. I'll just let it ride out.
>>

You can cancel the bids and end the auction. You can do this once per calendar year for free. If you do it more than once, you'll have to pay a fee. >>

Thanks, but I'm not sure I want to mess with my reputation now. I'd rather take a hit than have people think I'm untrustworthy. Thanks though.

SteelyDan · January 30, 2014 2:48AM

The friend of mine who suggested I come here came up with a very good idea. She told me to make an image saying Topps Chrome Superfractor and adding it to the pictures. I can't change the title, but I can add more pictures. So I did what she said and just uploaded it to the listing. Hopefully that will help a little.

KbKards · January 30, 2014 3:00AM

Thanks, but I'm not sure I want to mess with my reputation now. I'd rather take a hit than have people think I'm untrustworthy. Thanks though.

You have no reputation, and canceling all the bids to end the auction to relist it described properly isn't something that makes you untrustworthy. Before ending the listing add an update to the item description that you'll be ending the auction to relist it with a correct description.

SteelyDan · January 30, 2014 3:06AM

I have two hundred and seventy one 100% feedback. I don't know. I'd be steamed if someone closed an auction on me. The person who's working on this with me is going to ask a question if it's a Superfractor and I'll answer it publicly. That should help. I really appreciate the idea. And I appreciate all of the people who are helping me with different things.

Jonathan

miconelegacy · January 30, 2014 4:24AM

END the auction. Relist tonight for a 10 day auction. 40cents more. This time put Superfractor and RC Rookie if it fits. Huge search words to leave out. That gives you two full weekends and 7 business days for eyes to see.

You have to end it. It only makes sense and you'll make more on that card. Great card by the way. Should do very well 2k? Ungraded. I could see that.

Just my and most on here's opinion. You said you mostly buy, so your rep no offense, well you don't have a following as if you sold 500-1000 listings a month or more.

Take everyone's advice here. They are right.

Do this!!!!!

tmgrnzx9r · January 30, 2014 4:28AM

I understand and appreciate what you say with ending the auction. You never know if the current high bidder will end up winning it anyways. Cancel the listing as everyone has stated. You are doing nothing wrong with doing that. You made a listing error. It happens. Good Luck to You!!!

mlbfan2 · January 30, 2014 4:29AM

<< The friend of mine who suggested I come here came up with a very good idea. She told me to make an image saying Topps Chrome Superfractor and adding it to the pictures. I can't change the title, but I can add more pictures. So I did what she said and just uploaded it to the listing. Hopefully that will help a little. >>

Adding a picture that says "superfractor" doesn't really do much at all. That only helps the people that have ALREADY clicked on your auction. Meanwhile, some people that search for "superfractor" will never see your auction.

BTW, even though you can't edit the title or description, you can ADD to the description.

ldferg · January 30, 2014 5:01AM

<< I understand and appreciate what you say with ending the auction. You never know if the current high bidder will end up winning it anyways. Cancel the listing as everyone has stated. You are doing nothing wrong with doing that. You made a listing error. It happens. Good Luck to You!!! >>

Agreed. +1

SteelyDan · January 30, 2014 7:24AM

How do I cancel an auction?

SteelyDan · January 30, 2014 7:30AM

What would you guys suggest for a title?

SteelyDan · January 30, 2014 7:39AM

I found how to cancel the auction I just need the auction number and I can't find it.

SteelyDan · January 30, 2014 7:45AM

I found the listing number and entered it into the end auction box and things are still up. I'm thinking it takes some time to cancel the listing.

SteelyDan · January 30, 2014 7:57AM

Never mind I'm figuring it out for myself.

Allen · January 30, 2014 8:25AM

<< What would you guys suggest for a title? >>

TORREY SMITH 2011 TOPPS CHROME SUPERFRACTOR ROOKIE CARD AUTO RC #1/1

I would probably list as 30 day BuyItNow or Best Offer with a list price of $2,500 and field offers looking for $1,500+ and hoping for $1800-$1900.

You could always try that for 30 days, if you get no offer over $1200 or so then just relist as an auction for 10 days ending on a Sunday 10PM eastern.

SteelyDan · January 30, 2014 8:59AM

Thanks but I couldn't do a thirty day auction. Here's the link; Tell me what you think, please.

You guys are awesome. Thanks so much. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321311509343

SteelyDan · January 30, 2014 9:28AM

<< END the auction. Relist tonight for a 10 day auction. 40cents more. This time put Superfractor and RC Rookie if it fits. Huge search words to leave out. That gives you two full weekends and 7 business days for eyes to see.

You have to end it. It only makes sense and you'll make more on that card. Great card by the way. Should do very well 2k? Ungraded. I could see that.

Just my and most on here's opinion. You said you mostly buy, so your rep no offense, well you don't have a following as if you sold 500-1000 listings a month or more.

Take everyone's advice here. They are right.

Do this!!!!! >>

Thanks I did end it and it will restart tomorrow at 7pm PST.

It has a starting price of $1,200 and a buy it now price of $2,500.

This is the title; TORREY SMITH 2011 TOPPS CHROME SUPERFRACTOR ROOKIE CARD AUTO RC #1/1 ONLY ONE

Would someone mnd giving me some advice?

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