To Peel or Not to Peel? 1994-95 Finest Refractor for Grading Purposes - Opinions Please
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I am about to submit a 1994-95 Finest Refractors #331 Michael Jordan card (see pics below) for PSA grading. Does anyone have opinions for "leave the peel on or take the peel off" in the context of achieving the highest grade possible?
I think my card has the potential to be a 10, like this one here (w/ peel - Example 10). However, the peel has many pin hole sized bubbles on it. I do not want to take a surface hit for these peel only blemishes. BGS states on their site that they grade the peel as if it were the actual surface of the card. In the end, people get terrible hits like this (3 x 9.5s and the Hit of Death leaving the peel on.
I personally like the look of these MJ refractors cards w/o the peel (see my two other 1993-94s pictured below the 1994-95). However, I am concerned about physically damaging this perfect card with my fat fingers trying to get the peel off, either by dinging corners or chipping the edges...or by having the peel come off and strip some of the surface with it (being that the peel is 20 years old).
I am looking for any suggestions here with regard to the peel. If you say taking it off has a high potential of increasing the likely hood of a 10, then please also offer tips on how to best remove the peel. If you recommend leaving it on, please explain how PSA takes peels into account (i.e. compared to BGS) for overall grading marks.
Thank you.
Meatloaf
I think my card has the potential to be a 10, like this one here (w/ peel - Example 10). However, the peel has many pin hole sized bubbles on it. I do not want to take a surface hit for these peel only blemishes. BGS states on their site that they grade the peel as if it were the actual surface of the card. In the end, people get terrible hits like this (3 x 9.5s and the Hit of Death leaving the peel on.
I personally like the look of these MJ refractors cards w/o the peel (see my two other 1993-94s pictured below the 1994-95). However, I am concerned about physically damaging this perfect card with my fat fingers trying to get the peel off, either by dinging corners or chipping the edges...or by having the peel come off and strip some of the surface with it (being that the peel is 20 years old).
I am looking for any suggestions here with regard to the peel. If you say taking it off has a high potential of increasing the likely hood of a 10, then please also offer tips on how to best remove the peel. If you recommend leaving it on, please explain how PSA takes peels into account (i.e. compared to BGS) for overall grading marks.
Thank you.
Meatloaf
![image](http://i.imgur.com/5sLA8bO.jpg)
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Comments
"Live everyday, don't throw it away"
Peeling will give you a much greater chance of higher PSA grades.
Use a needle under magnification to get a corner started and then peel away.
saucywombat@hotmail.com
<< <i>This is about all I collect - Finest Refractors - and I can tell you for certain that there is no premium what so ever associated with a card having the peel on - particularly in the graded context.
Peeling will give you a much greater chance of higher PSA grades.
Use a needle under magnification to get a corner started and then peel away. >>
I'm not saying your wrong if this is all you collect. I just looked at 94-95 completed auctions and some of them have w/coating in the title.
I've done both, but sounds like without the coating it's worth more. It is I know hard to get a 10 with the coating. I just thought it was worth more that way bc often times they are already partially or a little bit peeled. Good info saucy.
"Live everyday, don't throw it away"
http://www.psacard.com/PSASetRegistry/alltimeset.aspx?s=114092
<< <i>I know that some of the registry sets require both with peel and with out for the composite. I think it is just a preference. They do look nicer with out and they will be protected in a PSA holder anyway. >>
That is true all the way around.
They call me "Pack the Ripper"
My Hoard of 93 Finest Refractors and 94 Pinnacle Artist Proofs and Museums
<< <i>Though not technically refractors, the 95/96 and 96/97 Select Certified Hockey Mirror Gold cards have the peel and I second what someone else said about not leaving on long term. I've got 2 95 Mirror Gold Chelios'. Peeled one, left the other. As careful as possible I was, but, the peel actually removed some of the card coating. I left the other unpeeled and same for some Scott Stevens I have, left unpeeled. I'd rather take a coupe of points hit on grading instead of killing my cards. >>
Yikes!
D's: 54S,53P,50P,49S,45D+S,44S,43D,41S,40D+S,39D+S,38D+S,37D+S,36S,35D+S,all 16-34's
Q's: 52S,47S,46S,40S,39S,38S,37D+S,36D+S,35D,34D,32D+S
74T: 241,435,610,654 97 Finest silver: 115,135,139,145,310
73T:31,55,61,62,63,64,65,66,67,68,80,152,165,189,213,235,237,257,341,344,377,379,390,422,433,453,480,497,545,554,563,580,606,613,630
95 Ultra GM Sets: Golden Prospects,HR Kings,On-Base Leaders,Power Plus,RBI Kings,Rising Stars
I think if I was running on an investment standpoint, I would let the population report make my decision. For the right collector, a PSA 6 that is best in class is still more valuable than a PSA 10 that has 50 other copies.