Donnie Baseball, Mints and Gem 10s
doog71
Posts: 405 ✭✭
So I have a problem where I buy way too many centered PSA 9 1984 Topps Mattinglys.
For the life of me I can't figure out what the difference between a 9 and 10 of this card is. I'm not saying the grading is arbitrary or anything, or that my eye is trained enough to see the differences.
But when I look closely at surface, corners, back, centering etc. I just cannot see any difference most times. If I could, I'd go after more "10"s...but I've had enough 9s and 10s of this card to like most of 'em the same.
I know, nothing new here, but wondering if there's something I'm not noticing that someone more experienced could shed some light on...
For the life of me I can't figure out what the difference between a 9 and 10 of this card is. I'm not saying the grading is arbitrary or anything, or that my eye is trained enough to see the differences.
But when I look closely at surface, corners, back, centering etc. I just cannot see any difference most times. If I could, I'd go after more "10"s...but I've had enough 9s and 10s of this card to like most of 'em the same.
I know, nothing new here, but wondering if there's something I'm not noticing that someone more experienced could shed some light on...
0
Comments
<< <i>Most 9s, especially modern, are 10s on any given day. If the corners are good, usually the only thing on an 84 Topps Mattingly that will prevent it from being a 10 is the L/R centering. >>
It seems that way, but are there maybe tiny condition things that make the difference?