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Pop 1 market value - Clark/Sandberg
Raulsmaster
Posts: 663 ✭✭
Looking for opinions on market value for 2 different PSA 10 pop 1 cards....both are 1992 Classic Collector's Edition (dark blue border)
1. Will Clark
2. Ryne Sandberg
These are next to impossible to get in good condition because the sets were cello wrapped and for whatever reason they were always stuck together
It never leaves you...
0
Comments
<< <i>Put them on ebay for a fixed listing at a very high amount and allow best-offers. Then, contact the respective master player set registry participants through the PSA website, informing them of the ebay item no. and welcome them to place an offer. I go this route and it works very well. Unless you are going to work with one participant, it is usually more polite to accept offers this way rather than emailing a bunch of people back and forth (though separate from each other) leveraging one offer vs. another. The participants are the ones who would more than likely be the people participating in bidding anyway. Just check their lists first to confirm it would be an upgrade for them before contacting. They wouldn't provide their contact info if they didn't want to be let know about things like this. >>
This is why I love this board. Although probably common practice by many of you here, I had never thought of this. I sent a couple of messages to people needing a card that I own, and I already have an offer. Thanks for the post.
WTB: 2001 Leaf Rookies & Stars Longevity: Ryan Jensen #/25
<< <i>High BIN with best offer won't really give you a good gauge on true market value. You will get the normal idiots that offer $6 just because they can. Start a regular auction at $1 with a high reserve, maybe $300 and see how high it goes. >>
I'd have to disagree; I think you will get a better gauge on true market value this way. I get the feeling a lot of people get frustrated with reserves on auctions. Personally, I don't see enough reason for it to be worth including as an option. If you are going to go with auction format rather than buy-it-now/b-o, you know what the minimum price is that you need for an item so set the opening list price at that. If it sells at that price, great. If it sells for higher, even better but at least you got the minimum you needed by way of the initial bid. I think going this route will produce a lot less shilling than starting an auction at $1 or than using reserves, too. Also, it is pretty darn easy to check the box that says automatically decline offers for less than $X amount and eliminate pointless low-balling. The exception would be if you really need to sell the particular item in question due to financial constraints or similar, and don't otherwise have the luxury of waiting for the right buyer.
<< <i>go with auction format rather than buy-it-now/b-o, you know what the minimum price is that you need for an item so set the opening list price at that. If it sells at that price, great. If it sells for higher, even better but at least you got the minimum you needed by way of the initial bid. I think going this route will produce a lot less shilling than starting an auction at $1 or than using reserves >>
I think that's the way to go...
<< <i>High BIN with best offer won't really give you a good gauge on true market value. . Start a regular auction at $1 with a high reserve, maybe $300 and see how high it goes. >>
There is never a good reason to use a high reserve. Ever!
<< <i>You will get the normal idiots that offer $6 just because they can >>
This is why you use the Auto-decline option.
CDsNuts, 1/9/15
Seems absolutely foolish to set a BIN if you have no idea of value.
Sell as an auction, starting bid .99, no reserve, and let her go. THIS will give you the best idea of what they are worth. I usually end auctions on a Sunday night after the football game (if there's one being played) is over.
You might also contact the top single player collectors to let them know these cards are up for auction, and post on the BST board as well.
Good luck!
<< <i>I have no idea of the value of these cards. I see idiots list $10.00 items all the time for insane BIN numbers, just makes them look like fools.
Seems absolutely foolish to set a BIN if you have no idea of value.
Sell as an auction, starting bid .99, no reserve, and let her go. THIS will give you the best idea of what they are worth. I usually end auctions on a Sunday night after the football game (if there's one being played) is over.
You might also contact the top single player collectors to let them know these cards are up for auction, and post on the BST board as well.
Good luck! >>
I agree with starting at .99 with no reserve. I have found that I generally get much more this way, because people start emotional bidding.
<< <i>I've also lost my ass-ets that way. After reading all of the messages, I'm not sure the original question was really ever answered? >>
That's because Pop 1's can't be valued, even if they've sold previously.
Generally, I've done better with BIN than .99 auctions.
A high BIN doesn't make you look like a fool if it's Pop 1 - you're justing estimating the market price
Ultimately, buyers will let you know what the market price is by their offers.
An auction lets you know what the market price was on the day it finishes only, and you hope that the highest bidders see you item.