question on best way to sub cards to psa

jay0791

Looking for expert opinions from fellow psa collectors who sub cards to PSA frequently.

I have many psa cards (mostly pre 1980) in my collection and some new shiny stuff...so I certainly know how to grade.
yes I know on paper any combination shouldn't really matter as each card is looked upon as an indivigual entity...

A friend has offered to send some cards in for me...has graciously done so in the past.

questions since this will be a bigger volume sub...

does it matter if the new shiny stuff is mixed in with older? I would like to send both.
what about mixing potential psa 6's with 8's on older?
any advice along these lines would be appreciated.

Anything under review or crossover will be cracked out.

The person sending them in is an advance collector and his opinion will also be relied upon.

dennis07

Great question, Jay. If you don't get responses here you might want to post on the "sports card & mem. board".

cardbender

Personally I wouldn't send in new shiny cards with older stuff, but that's me.

I would mix diff. grades of older cards though. Maybe put a couple of potential 6's, then follow
up with some that would 8, etc... you might get some grade boosts. The 8's will look
much sharper than the 6's, so this might help boost up the assigned grades on some of the
lower grade cards. Of course this theory goes out the window if you get the grader of death.

I know some people do better sending in larger subs too. Not sure why.

I've also heard some submitters like to break their subs into smaller groups in case they get a tough
grader, so that all their cards would not land on his/her grading table. The reverse could be true too,
you might a more lenient grader, and then you screwed yourself by breaking up your material into
smaller lots.

I've tried every way possible to get the best grades and all it really comes down to is luck of the draw
on the grader assigned to look over your cards. Overall I think PSA does a pretty solid job grading.
You win on some, you lose on some, but 90% or more are usually graded right on the money.

cards651

Great comments. Echoes my sentiments as well. - Kevin M.

wrestlingcardking

I collect a lot of cards from the same set since it is wrestling and there are limited issues to collect and I often will send in just cards for that one set like all my 1954 Parkhurst in a sub and all my 1973 wrestling annuals in one sub. I have been pretty pleased with my results and most of the time they seem to have got back to me pretty quickly on a bulk sub or special (way less time than the stated 45 days). These are often smaller subs so I am minimizing the risk of the grader of death and I also have all the one set so there is little for research where the grader will have to review the oddball issue or rare insert. I have five different orders at PSA and PSA/DNA and hopefully that will mean that I will get a few surprises by getting them back soon and a few that will run their course for the whole time.

joejoemay

I don’t like the fact you can get a hard grader or an easy grader…I do get it’s a person doing this. I just wonder why no one has created a computer program for this…measurements, color brightness, all flaws caught…I’m sure it could be done. I myself bought a bunch of 1976 5’s that to me, look awesome….putting them against other fives I have (Mostly Mantle’s) these cards to me should be solid 9’s. Perhaps I’m still new at this. It does almost make me want to not submit any cards…especially with I could get Darth Grader! I did however submit about 200 cards in one lot this month (My first submit) and will hope for a fair grade.

cougar701

ah yes....one grader versus another. Darth Grader or the Grader of Death...Really?

The Chief is correct, there should be a more consistent process by now, I mean how many years does it take to refine this thing? Who does the controls on the graders to ensure they are calibrated so we don't get 'graders of death'? Also, it shouldn't matter in what order or how we sub the cards or 6's before 8's, etc.... if the process was refined and correct, no one would have these kinds of thoughts and questions, would we?

All good questions and concerns

macboube

My large (1000 cards) subs always seem to yield best results. The bulk of my large subs are 1956 - 1979 stuff, and I do combine some newer stuff with the large subs.

joejoemay

Quick question: I sent off my order about a week ago, so it should be there. When does it show up on PSAs "Order" page? After grading? Upon receipt?

cards651

After grading? Upon receipt?

I would say neither. My experience has been that it shows up on the Order page when PSA has verified that your order is 'correct'. The form must be filled out properly (or reasonably properly), payment provided and form signed. I once forgot to sign the CC authorization and they contacted me by e-mail to confirm. Anyway, hope this helps. - Kevin M.

jay0791

Thank u for the replies.
A few guys here I know have good experience.
I don't have anywheres near 1000 cards. A big sub for me would be under 200

joejoemay

Yes Kevin it helped thanks.