Graded vs. Ungraded
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I have decided to start a collection on an individual player. I collect a few things now: unopened boxes and packs for one and I am trying to complete a registry set for 61 Fleer Basketball. I also collect graded individual cards typically of my favorite players. I am not particularly investing in cards but at the same time I do not have much interest in taking a bath in the hobby either as I do have a family that requires attention and money as well.
I know I may hear the popular refrain of collect what you like. And I appreciate that. And that is what I have been doing and intend to do with my new player collection. That said, I want to hear some opinions on whether you personally like graded vs. ungraded for your personal collections and why. I am hoping to hear some good reasons why I should go one way or another to help me decide what to do with my new player collection. By the way the player I am starting my collection on (or rather picking back up from my child hood collection) is Will Clark. Thanks,
Steve
I know I may hear the popular refrain of collect what you like. And I appreciate that. And that is what I have been doing and intend to do with my new player collection. That said, I want to hear some opinions on whether you personally like graded vs. ungraded for your personal collections and why. I am hoping to hear some good reasons why I should go one way or another to help me decide what to do with my new player collection. By the way the player I am starting my collection on (or rather picking back up from my child hood collection) is Will Clark. Thanks,
Steve
Steve
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Comments
if i were to collect a new player from scratch, i would only buy graded. i have no faith in raw cards, especially on the internet.
WTB: PSA 1 - PSA 3 Centered, High Eye Appeal 1950's Mantle
That said, I usually do target the rookie cards and a few other favorites in PSA 10 for modern player collections.
If I recall correctly, there are some aggressive Will Clark collectors on the registry, so be prepared to shell out some big bucks for rare 10s.
However, under a certain $ point I'm willing to roll the dice with buying raw. Over a certain $ point, I just feel much better buying graded. And between the two $ points, if a graded card is within 20% of the raw, I'll likely go the graded route. Though I've yet to crack out anything, that always remains an option should I decide on the raw route. I should note that much of what I collect is 52-90 HOFers and Dodgers. RCs when affordable, or my favorite examples of certain players in the best condition I can afford.
Personally, I'm leaning towards raw, because I'm not in it for profits, I do have space concerns, and I like to handle my cards on occasion like I did as a kid. And though holdered cards are sweet in their own right, you just can't touch 'em. That's likely why I tend to buy in the -NM range for pre-70's raw, so an accident isn't too costly.
That being said, I have decided that for me, anything over $200 or PSA10 worthy, should be holdered, as well as key RCs. I can always add a lesser raw card as a place holder.
For instance, I collect Steve Garvey. None are currently graded. I'm only missing a mini and a couple random 80's. I'm leaning towards subbing my 71 and 72, and then buying a lesser raw example of each, or buying a higher quality graded example. But I can't see myself grading all of his cards, especially once you hit the 80's and start getting multiple manufacturers. No interest in seeing an 87D Garvey in a holder.
As for Don Drysdale, I've still got work to do, and as of now I only intend on having his RC holdered, but I can see myself at some point potentially having them all holdered since we're only talking about 20ish cards, and a 69 Drysdale looks just fine in a holder.
So I think if regardless of player, you're going the "only high-quality" examples route, it's best to protect the grade and value in a holder, and same if you have significant investment in the card or have intentions of selling.
Just my 2 cents.
Good Luck with your decision.
EDIT: Just saw Will Clark. I'd go raw and holder one each of 86-87, and any rarities, and pick up a raw placeholder of each when possible.
That says it ALL, buy graded cards. The only exception I would make would be very inexpensive cards that might not be "worth" sending in for grading.
Nothing wrong with buying raw, but your odds of getting a altered card are much less and resale is much easier if you ever decide to go that route.
joe
Player master set, raw
To be honest, no direction, but...
1966-69 Topps EX+
1975 minis NrMt Kelloggs PSA 9
All Topps Heritage-Master Sets
I became very disillusioned with the "Professional Grading" as i realized it was more about money, profit and labels than it was about the actual cards themselves.
TPGing has created some big myths that many "collectors" have bought into.
#1 The "Gem Mint 10" People chase this grade for the money and or the label for registry sets, Not for the actual card itself. All 10's are really just Mint 9's
on any given day. Its funny how the "Gem Mint 10" obessor's down play 9's and in some cases even 8's, only to turn around and give stupid money for the exact
same card after it has be "re-sub" a few times an eventually ends up in a "Gem Mint 10 Holder"
#2 "Professionally" Graded cards ensure you authentic and unaltered cards? Possibly in many cases. If a million dollar Trimmed Hornus Wagner can slip through the cracks,
How much attention do you think some Modern Day Wil Clark cards demand? Food for thought.
#3 And maybe the biggest Myth, is that Raw cards somehow can't be High grade Mint cards in comparison to graded cards. I maintain Mint Raw sets that rival anything in a set registry.
My vote is Raw for your new collection.
Steve
<< <i>Ive enjoyed doing a few graded sets, but the majority of my collection will always remain Raw, the way they were meant to be.
I became very disillusioned with the "Professional Grading" as i realized it was more about money, profit and labels than it was about the actual cards themselves.
TPGing has created some big myths that many "collectors" have bought into.
#1 The "Gem Mint 10" People chase this grade for the money and or the label for registry sets, Not for the actual card itself. All 10's are really just Mint 9's
on any given day. Its funny how the "Gem Mint 10" obessor's down play 9's and in some cases even 8's, only to turn around and give stupid money for the exact
same card after it has be "re-sub" a few times an eventually ends up in a "Gem Mint 10 Holder"
#2 "Professionally" Graded cards ensure you authentic and unaltered cards? Possibly in many cases. If a million dollar Trimmed Hornus Wagner can slip through the cracks,
How much attention do you think some Modern Day Wil Clark cards demand? Food for thought.
#3 And maybe the biggest Myth, is that Raw cards somehow can't be High grade Mint cards in comparison to graded cards. I maintain Mint Raw sets that rival anything in a set registry.
My vote is Raw for your new collection. >>
I totally agree, especially for modern cards. A PSA 10 can be a PSA 9 on a diff. day, depends on the grader.
Why pay the premium for a 10 for a nickel's worth of plastic?
For vintage or more expensive cards, I can see going graded.
Steve
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The movement of the card bouncing around inside the slab against those rails
has been well documented as to the damage it can cause to the 8-points of contact
on the edges by the corners. A pretty poor design for card protection.
It appears the 92 Topps Micro Wil Clark card in your scan is already suffering corner stress
from its movement in the slab, and your kids haven't even touched it yet.
Go ahead and let them shake that card around a bit more and it will be an 8 trapped in a 10 slab in no time.
I always liked Wil Clark as a Player. He was tough as nails and a down to earth guy. Nice looking collection.
I sure I got a boxfull Wil Clark cards around here somewhere.
Keep up the good work!
J
So my personal collection has changed - ALL cards for all years for a base set for both hockey and baseball. I will buy mostly raw (for the economics of it), but some vintage HOF players (i.e. any mantle, 1966 Bobby Orr) I will go graded. I will probably slab my Red Sox and Bruins cards, as well as the HOF players not already slabbed, as I like the look and I plan on displaying them in my home office, rotating the cards/years.
What I have found is - there is no wrong answer as to PC.
BTW - nice Clark collection. I remember when he came on the scene - he was the next big thing. Great player. Good luck finishing it.
Topps/OPC Hockey 1966-Present base sets
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I love the oddball sets from the 80's like the Donruss Highlights and the Baseball's Best from Fleer. Definitely takes me back looking at these cards. BTW, interesting trivia, does anyone know who Will Clark homered off of in his first at bat (the subject of the highlights card)? I believe it was actually his first swing in his first AB. I remember being 10 years old and reading this in the paper and thinking it was so cool that he did this off of the player he did it against. He became my favorite player that day and it turned out to be a good choice for a kid growing up in SF in the late 80's.
Its nice when you can just sit back and go through a binder and enjoy the cards and memorys .Cards have never made me rich nor will they ever.I have that gut feeling that most cards graded from years past 1980 are going to be in large supply with dropping values,just my opinion.
I used to collect graded Clarks, but ended up selling out and going raw. I did keep one graded Clark card though, a self submitted PSA 10 1986 Topps Traded Tiffany.
WTB: 2001 Leaf Rookies & Stars Longevity: Ryan Jensen #/25
hyperchipper09--Thanks. I agree with you about post 94 baseball. If you were a Mattingly fan then I can see why the strike would have soured you a little.
Digicat--You picked a good one to hold on to.
Here is my modest auto collection so far:
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