Home Grading Kit

vintagefun

Guys -
I'm looking for a selection of recommended tools for home grading/pre-submission. I know there are many tools out there, but I'm kinda looking for what some of you prefer, and why if there's a particular reason.

Obviously a lighted loupe is on the list, but what magX is suggested?

Is there a particular type of ruler?

Do you prefer sock/nylon/other for cleaning?

What else should I consider when reviewing my cards for go/nogo subs?

As always, thanks.

Boopotts

I know it's fun to buy stuff, but in all honesty the only thing you need is a good lamp. Once you have that in place the only thing left to do is practice.

mygotta

<< <i>I know it's fun to buy stuff, but in all honesty the only thing you need is a good lamp. Once you have that in place the only thing left to do is practice. >>



Agreed. A loupe will also come in handy for closer observation.

mattinglymint23

10x is good loupe power

I also like doing hi res scans to examine edges and corners - doesn't do much for surface though. Still need the light and tilt examine for that.

Nikklos

I find the best tool for grading and deciding what to submit is the naked eye and resisting the urge to submit cards with flaws just because they would be worth a lot of money in a 10.

JHS5120

Practice, practice, practice.

Try to assemble a 10-15 card order and write down what you think the grades and subgrades will be (Corners 7, Centering 8, Surface 8; Overall, 7.5). When you get the order back, if you are disappointed (most are their first time), scan the cards and we will tell you what you might have missed (The left/right centering is nice, but you missed the top/bottom miscut).

A hint:

Most new submitters approach grading completely wrong. They have a tendency to find certain card attributes more important to judge than others. From my experience, many new "graders" rank card attributes like this: (1 being the most important)

1. Corners
2. Corners
3. Corners
4. Large surface blemishes (creases, paper loss, etc.)
5. Centering
6. Edges
7. Small surface blemishes (print dots, print registry, etc.)


This is a common mistake. Many feel that if a card has a nice crisp look on all four corners, it's a shoe-in for an 8, 9 or 10. This is rarely ever the case. You need to appreciate all of the condition-sensitive features of a card. Don't overlook anything, you'll waste your time and money grading a worthless card if you do.

ChiefsFan1st

My biggest mistake I made on my first submission was assuming the older the card, the easier they would grade them. Not the case.

Boopotts

Ditch the loupe- it's a money waster, and it makes things needlessly complicated. If the corners look good to the naked eye then they're sharp enough to meet PSA 10 standards.

vintagefun

Thanks all. This is helpful stuff. I actually feel pretty comfortable on grading the 8-10's with the eye, but feel like a loupe is what will help me with the 50's-60's, 4-6's.

Also wondering about size tolerances. Having purchased cards through eBay over the years, I have run in to some obviously trimmed cards, which were returned, but still fear that I may have some that I wasn't astute enough to catch.

Tips/Tricks on measuring and spotting trimmed cards?

RyanAdmirer

<< <i>Ditch the loupe- it's a money waster, and it makes things needlessly complicated. If the corners look good to the naked eye then they're sharp enough to meet PSA 10 standards. >>



Maybe in my younger days I could say the same thing. But as I crossed that age of 40 and my eyesight with things close to me started to change I found spending $10 on a loop has paid for itself many times over.

That and the brightest light that I have are the only tools I use. My thoughts on when to send something in or not pretty much rely on my purpose for sending something in. If I am strictly shooting for 10 then I have to look at it like anything short of perfection will not be sent in. But if it's something older or something that I plan on placing in my PC I usually think of it a bit differently.

Raulsmaster

I've never used a magnifier, just some good light is all that's necessary. Although if you're eye sight isn't that sharp (I'm mid 30's) it doesn't hurt...it's just more work.

Maurice

Listen to Boopotts. His subs are like 90% 10's.

zurbs17

<< <i>Ditch the loupe- it's a money waster, and it makes things needlessly complicated. If the corners look good to the naked eye then they're sharp enough to meet PSA 10 standards. >>



I agree with this. I'm not perfect at this but I did recently get 19/22 10s on a 2010 OPC Hockey sub that I judged with eyeballs only. Granted that's not a tough issue to judge.

CDsNuts

Ditch the loupe- it's a money waster, and it makes things needlessly complicated. If the corners look good to the naked eye then they're sharp enough to meet PSA 10 standards.


Could not disagree more. I recommend a 500x power microscope which I believe is what the graders use.

SOM

Take your cards outside in the bright sunshine. You'll be amazed at what flaws are uncovered.

JoeBanzai

My eyes are also not what they once were. I highly recommend the loupe! That and a bright light. A nylon sock comes in handy once in a while for removing wax from the front of a card, I don't have a wife or GF right now so I use an old dryer sheet.

ManOfLeisure

<< <i>Could not disagree more. I recommend a 500x power microscope which I believe is what the graders use. >>



500X is a little extreme. Maybe good for seeing if the card has been tampered with, but otherwise not - you would only be looking at the paper fibers at this magnification.

CDsNuts

500X is a little extreme. Maybe good for seeing if the card has been tampered with, but otherwise not - you would only be looking at the paper fibers at this magnification.


Thanks, I had not considered that.

japhi

<< <i>500X is a little extreme. Maybe good for seeing if the card has been tampered with, but otherwise not - you would only be looking at the paper fibers at this magnification.


Thanks, I had not considered that. >>



lol

ldferg

<< <i>Ditch the loupe- it's a money waster, and it makes things needlessly complicated. If the corners look good to the naked eye then they're sharp enough to meet PSA 10 standards.


Could not disagree more. I recommend a 500x power microscope which I believe is what the graders use. >>



+1. Lol

otwcards

A good light source, 1.5x readers if your eyes have a few miles on them and learning how to angle and shadow a card to ensure that you catch any imperfections or nuances that may be missed in general straight-on observation and review.

Don't get too paranoid about reverse centering. As long as the card isn't miscut, you should be able to get the grade you want even if the back is significantly off-center.

Don't submit cards with minor flaws thinking the graders will miss them. They won't. If you can see it, so will they.

Don't submit cards because you WANT it to be in a certain grade. Wanting a grade and getting the grade are two different animals and they rarely meet in Newport Beach.

Review and critique your results when you get them back. You'll learn more about grading by reviewing those that didn't meet expectation than you will by reading a message board.

If you vehemently disagree or can't find the cause of a less-than-expected grade, look again until you find it (odds are that it is there) or post a high resolution image of the front and back against a contrasting background to the forum and someone will probably be able to find what you missed.

fur72

<< <i>My biggest mistake I made on my first submission was assuming the older the card, the easier they would grade them. Not the case. >>



My problem too lol.


Could purchase this bad boy!

fur72

Sorry for the double post but how funny would these be?

Watch repair Magnifier Loupe

groupbreakers

1-Omni Grid
2- 10 x loop MAX the stronger the mag, the less cards you end up submitting.
3- white light.