Am I crazy to collect vintage this way?
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I like to purchase vintage PSA graded cards (typically '50s, '60s, early '70s) then crack them and add to my raw collection.
I know it's weird, but I like knowing the card is "real" and hasn't been tampered with. I don't really do this with PSA 9 kind of stuff, but more like PSA 5-7.
Anyone else do this?
I know it's weird, but I like knowing the card is "real" and hasn't been tampered with. I don't really do this with PSA 9 kind of stuff, but more like PSA 5-7.
Anyone else do this?
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It's amazing some of the bargains you can get on centered cards with nice color simply because they've been graded a 5 or 6...
Doug
Liquidating my collection for the 3rd and final time. Time for others to enjoy what I have enjoyed over the last several decades. Money could be put to better use.
PSA HOF Baseball Postwar Rookies Set Registry- (Currently 80.51% Complete)
PSA Pro Football HOF Rookie Players Set Registry- (Currently 19.80% Complete)
PSA Basketball HOF Players Rookies Set Registry- (Currently 6.02% Complete)
<< <i>I like to purchase vintage PSA graded cards (typically '50s, '60s, early '70s) then crack them and add to my raw collection.
I know it's weird, but I like knowing the card is "real" and hasn't been tampered with. I don't really do this with PSA 9 kind of stuff, but more like PSA 5-7.
Anyone else do this? >>
I do it all time just for the reasoned you mentioned. I don't crack 50's or 60's cards very often or like you said PSA 9's. But I have a nice raw collection of cracked mid to late 70's stars and HOF cards. Nothing better than a nice raw PSA 7 or 8 82 Topps Ripken, 83 Gywnn or 80 Henderson. I think their are quite a few "weird" folks that prefer raw cards but have lots of reservation buying raw on Ebay. I like searching and buying higher end raw cards on the Bay from a few select dealers who have great feedback and i still get trimmed cards and have to send them back. I took 2 66 Mantles to the National with some other raw cards to be graded and one of the Mantles and a 59 Brooks Robinson was trimmed. I couldn't tell.
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<< <i>I like to purchase vintage PSA graded cards (typically '50s, '60s, early '70s) then crack them and add to my raw collection.
I know it's weird, but I like knowing the card is "real" and hasn't been tampered with. I don't really do this with PSA 9 kind of stuff, but more like PSA 5-7.
Anyone else do this? >>
I do it all time just for the reasoned you mentioned. I don't crack 50's or 60's cards very often or like you said PSA 9's. But I have a nice raw collection of cracked mid to late 70's stars and HOF cards. Nothing better than a nice raw PSA 7 or 8 82 Topps Ripken, 83 Gywnn or 80 Henderson. I think their are quite a few "weird" folks that prefer raw cards but have lots of reservation buying raw on Ebay. I like searching and buying higher end raw cards on the Bay from a few select dealers who have great feedback and i still get trimmed cards and have to send them back. I took 2 66 Mantles to the National with some other raw cards to be graded and one of the Mantles and a 59 Brooks Robinson was trimmed. I couldn't tell. >>
Yes, it's nearly impossible to tell the true condition of a card unless the scan is stellar. Even then it's not automatic.
I used to only collect raw. Later on, I decided to change my focus to just collect PSA cards (easier to liquidate, if needed, down the road). I ended up re-subbing some of the cards I cracked out and got a few surprises: a '61 Yaz that was a PSA 5 then suddenly became too minimum of a size for PSA to grade, a '58 Koufax that was a PSA 4 but must have improved over the 3 years it was not encased and became a PSA 5. Lots of inconsistencies but at least you get some semblance of security.
Rookies, I usually wait until I get a pile of flips and then I email Cosetta to have them removed from the database. Once they are deleted, I just toss the labels.
MY GOLD TYPE SET https://pcgs.com/setregistry/type-sets/complete-type-sets/gold-type-set-12-piece-circulation-strikes-1839-1933/publishedset/321940
Especially for cards that I'm very sure I will never want to sell.
I crack 'em out and put in a penny sleeve and then in a toploader
and they store easily.
If I ever want to pull one out and inspect it then I can.
I do this mostly with PSA 5-7 cards along with the odd BVG or SGC,
though I do tend to keep most SGC cards slabbed as well as higher-end
PSA 8-10.
DaveB in St.Louis
<< <i>Just curious, do you guys also keep the PSA label with the card? >>
I keep the PSA labels just in case I want to resubmit some of the cards to sell at a later time. Plus it helps me when I buy similar year cards raw and can compare the graded to the non graded.The surface of the card is where i miss most problems on scans and in my hands. I bought a raw 68 Nolan Ryan at the National for $200. The corners were really good,the centering 60/40 or better all the way around. Great color and eye appeal. I new for that price that their had to be something wrong with it. I looked at the surface,showed it to two other people and they all said it looked like a solid Ex to ExMT card. Thought I scored a beauty for low price.......Wrong!
Topps Heritage - Trade Page
1959 Mantle A.S.
Kiss me twice.....let's party.
<< <i>I do this all the time too, although i do buy a lot of raw, if i get a graded i crack it and do indeed keep the slip and tuck it behind the card in the album sheets. >>
Your the one that outbids me on all the good stuff........
I do this with my raw 1975 minis. There are some cards that are incredibly difficult to find in nice condition raw but can be had occasionally in full size and PSA 7s on the bay. These examples often have exceptionally high eye-appeal. Some can be had for under 10 bucks and to me it is worth it to crack and place in my personal raw binder. I never spoke about this to anyone else because, like you, I thought I must be the only idiot doing this - so thanks for the post because I can see we have a whole village of idiots
<< <i>So the PSA Pop reports are more of a guideline.... >>
You reached the appropriate conclusion.
Twenty years of crackouts and who knows what's really out there for vintage cards.
You can assume that the PSA 10 counts are pretty accurate though. LOL
DaveB in St.Louis