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Need help on deciding which coins to send in next.

I'm sending in some nice mint state coins straight from a 1990 mint set. I'm also sending in my 1986 and 2001 proof Silver Eagles. Then I'm also sending in various proofs.

Now for the question, which coins do you think are easy to get in a certain grade where they'll get a large amount of money? Does PCGS grade lower on proof Ike Dollars if they have that ugly haze?

Any help will greatly be appreciated.image Thanks, Brian.


For some life lasts a short while, but the memories it holds last forever.
-Laura Swenson

In memory of BL, SM, and KG. 16 and forever young, rest in peace.

Comments

  • itsnotjustmeitsnotjustme Posts: 8,779 ✭✭✭
    The only time I've found a coin easy to "make" in a profitable grade is when new coins first come out. You need to be among the first to market with the new goods. For example, 69DCAM proofs will normally bring $25-40 each when they are among the first to the market. MS67 state quarters bring an easy $30 to $50, even though they may become quite common, and drop to $20 each. You need to be ready to sell these the moment they return.

    For your mint set, you need to evaluate price guides and population reports against the appearance of your coins. Why submit a coin you think may make MS66, if MS66 can be purchased at near the grading fee? Personal experience is that there is seldom more than 1 coin worth submitting in a mint set (more on 1999+ mint sets with a full 20 coins).

    If your Ikes are silver, they dip beautifully, and other than the 73 are a cheap coin to practice (i.e. make any mistakes) on.
    Give Blood (Red Bags) & Platelets (Yellow Bags)!
  • BRdudeBRdude Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭
    Yea Brian, a quick bath in jeweluster will take the haze off those proofs nicelyimage If you leave it it will definately cost you in grading and in reselling if that is what you had in mind. Look at the Set coins closely with a loup before submitting them and cull any pieces that don't look nearly perfect close up, especially if they are for resale, if they are for your collection it probably doesn't matter as much, but wioll if you ever go to sell them.
    AKA kokimoki
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  • gripgrip Posts: 9,962 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Yes get rid of the haze with a 50/50 dip and rinse well in distilled water,do NOT pat dry use a hair dryer.Some use acetone after dipping i never have tryed it and assume it's the same as nail polish remover.My silver proof Iks had to be done and most came out great.Al
  • littlewicherlittlewicher Posts: 1,822 ✭✭
    What I'm really interested in is getting my 1990-D Kennedy Half to come back a MS66. One just sold recently for $500+ in PCGS MS66.image I looked at mine under the loupe, and I think it could come back possibly MS67.image

    I'm also interested on how to dip. I've never done it before. What do you use, how long does it take? etc... Someone fill me in on the details please.image


    For some life lasts a short while, but the memories it holds last forever.
    -Laura Swenson

    In memory of BL, SM, and KG. 16 and forever young, rest in peace.
  • cladkingcladking Posts: 28,731 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Well I'm glad it's not just me, itsnotjustme. I do find about two mint sets out of three will
    have a gem, and few sets will have more. For about every 10 gems there will be a suberb
    gem, and for each 10 suberb gems there will be a monster. The 90-D half comes real nice
    in mint sets, but MS-67's are a little tough. Probably around 1 1/2%.

    Mint workers seem to have a little fun sometimes with these sets. I've seen a couple sets
    with all monsters in them, and a couple of those are the best specimens I've ever seen. By
    the same token I've seen sets with nothing but garbage in them, even worn die strikes
    which are rare in mint sets.
    tempus fugit extra philosophiam.
  • littlewicherlittlewicher Posts: 1,822 ✭✭
    I've noticed that too.


    For some life lasts a short while, but the memories it holds last forever.
    -Laura Swenson

    In memory of BL, SM, and KG. 16 and forever young, rest in peace.
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