Home Trading Cards & Memorabilia Forum

What is the best holder to store raw cards?

I have purchased mainly grades cards, but have shifted my focus to nice 70's raw cards. Should I be holding them in a top loader (and of course a penney sleeve). If so, what is the best one?

Comments

  • I use Ultra Pro
  • I've used top loads with penny sleeves and have never damaged a card. And if you are worried about a card flying out you can just drop that top load into a team bag. Everything will be nice and secure.
    In my opinion card savers are too flimsy for long term storage. Your mileage may vary.
  • I use penny sleeves and UltraPros, and I don't push the card all the way down.
    'Sir, I realize it's been difficult for you to sleep at night without your EX/MT 1977 Topps Tom Seaver, but I swear to you that you'll get it safe and sound.'
    -CDs Nuts, 1/20/14

    *1956 Topps baseball- 97.4% complete, 7.24 GPA
    *Clemente basic set: 85.0% complete, 7.89 GPA
  • hyperchipper09hyperchipper09 Posts: 1,455 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I use everything from Card Savers(all versions) to penny sleeves w/ Top Loaders, Snap Its(loved those, still have a nice stash), the magnetic holders, one screw holders, recessed screw down holders. There are many choices. Much depends on how you plan to store and display, and what you plan on spending for supplies image
  • CollectorAtWorkCollectorAtWork Posts: 859 ✭✭✭
    BTW, for those who use top loaders to store entire sets, what box do you use to store the top loaders in? Are there any boxes that can store ~700 top loaders? (or ~350 so someone can use 2 boxes per set).
  • jeffcbayjeffcbay Posts: 8,950 ✭✭✭✭
    I use penny sleeves and hard top leaders for all of my raw Ripken cards (over 5000 cards). I keep them in multiple 3000-count boxes.
  • HallcoHallco Posts: 3,651 ✭✭✭✭✭
    just throw em in an old shoe box! It seems to have worked for everyone's gram-paw! image
  • digicatdigicat Posts: 8,551 ✭✭
    Penny sleeves and top-loaders for any cards I want to look at a lot frequently. Penny sleeves only for cards I won't be looking at much. I also have a couple of binders that I like to use too.

    I never use Card Savers. I've seen them cause damage in long-term to 80s/90s era Topps cards and thicker modern cards.
    My Giants collection want list

    WTB: 2001 Leaf Rookies & Stars Longevity: Ryan Jensen #/25
  • Penny sleeve in a top-loader.

    Been doing this for 20 years and never saw a card move yet plus excellent protection.

    Do not use cardsavers. Flimsy and a chance to damage a corner inserting it.
    The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was to convince the PSA 10 collector he didn't exist.

    DaveB in St.Louis
  • itzagoneritzagoner Posts: 8,753 ✭✭


    << <i>just throw em in an old shoe box! It seems to have worked for everyone's gram-paw! image >>



    this really isn't that far from the truth. raise your hand if you've acquired nice vintage cards from someone who discovered them sitting in a box, uninhibited by plastic or acrylic for 40-50+ years.
  • scotgrebscotgreb Posts: 809 ✭✭✭
    What is the best holder to store raw cards?

    I heard that PSA has some nice holders image
  • hyperchipper09hyperchipper09 Posts: 1,455 ✭✭✭✭✭
    You can get shift in top loaders. Correct. Even with penny sleeves.
    Card Savers will press/flatten/deaden corners on some softer card stock. Even using penny sleeves with the card savers. Will also flatten corners on many thicker modern stocks(think relic cards, jersey cards, auto cards).
    Part of collecting is OCD and anal retentiveness. How OCD and Anal retentive each collector is determines a lot.
    One reason I use everything. I get the best protection and damage at the same time. All bases covered. image
  • BobHBobH Posts: 206 ✭✭

    I never use Card Savers. I've seen them cause damage in long-term to 80s/90s era Topps cards and thicker modern cards. >>



    I just bought a small lot of 86 Barry Bonds "the rookies" When taking them out of the card savers a significant amount of the green color on the edges stuck to the plastic and pretty much ruined the cards.They must have gotten hot or humid and when they dried out the color stuck to the plastic.
    Interested in 60's and 70's psa and raw star and hof cards


  • << <i>
    One reason I use everything. I get the best protection and damage at the same time. All bases covered. image >>



    LOL Awesome!

  • grote15grote15 Posts: 29,743 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Whatever holder you use, I would use penny sleeves for long term storage to protect the surfaces to avoid damage like BobH described.


    Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
  • jmaciujmaciu Posts: 1,289 ✭✭✭
    Thanks for all of the feedback. I am pretty sure I am going to keep my cards raw, so I think I am going to go with the penney sleeves inside the Ultra Pro Top Loaders.


  • << <i>This is incorrect. You're actually more likely to damage corners by using a penny sleave and/or a top loader. These holders are typically more narrow than card savers and don't allow you to open the mouth wide like card saver 1s do.

    The constant shifting in top loaders is the main issue I have with them and over time it eats away at the corners.

    There's a reason why PSA insists on card savers for submissions ... as they say on their site:

    We do not accept hard acrylic snap cases, top loaders or screw down holders for cards. These holders allow movement during shipment which may result in damage >>



    Have you ever actually used penny sleeves in a top-loader? There is no movement. And siginificantly thicker and
    more protective than cardsavers.

    The reason PSA wants cardsavers used is that it's easier for them to remove cards for grading.
    The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was to convince the PSA 10 collector he didn't exist.

    DaveB in St.Louis
Sign In or Register to comment.