Pointers for beginning coin photography

I have never done any of my own coin imaging before, but I want to start learning. I have very little idea what I am doing an was hoping some of the more experienced photographers could give some pointers to get started. I have a Canon Rebel XS camera. My biggest question is what sort of lighting setup works best for obtaining the most natural looking photographs? Any other advice for beginners is also welcome and much appreciated.
Thank you,
CuKevin
Thank you,
CuKevin
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I have found that understanding White Balance is more important than the actually lighting type. But I use Photographic (I think the are 5000 degree - that is color temperature not heat temperature) florescent bulbs. They are cooler and last longer. But are a bit more dispersed in how they throw the light.
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The Color checker passport is not cheap but is a pretty cool tool.
Copy stand with fixed high angle lights are a must.
But before spending any money on any equipment find Mark's book and then build up with what you have with knowledge and practice.
Should be able to get his above mentioned book on Amazon..
-Ron
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2. Macro Lens 100-150mm
3. Copy Stand with a 36" height
4. A few gooseneck lamps with CFL or halogen bulbs
Tether to your computer and viola!
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<< <i>1. DSLR Camera
2. Macro Lens 100-150mm
3. Copy Stand with a 36" height
4. A few gooseneck lamps with CFL or halogen bulbs
Tether to your computer and viola!
Ditto what he said.
I would add;
5. LOTS of practice
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However for many years, I used an old Canon 10d with an Olympus OM1 1970's vintage Zuiko 50mm MACRO lens and a Olympus to Canon adapter.
I may have an extra zuiko/canon adapter laying around.
The Zuiko is manual focus but relatively cheap at $50 on fleabay.
Only issue with 50mm is a shortish Macro focal length that it can interfere with lighting. Longer focal length is generally better.
Stupidly sold this setup when my 10d died, and I was considering getting back into weddings/portraits.
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For instance, the camera body is possibly the least important part of the equation.
In order of importance, I'd prioritize like this:
1) Stable platform. The most expensive camera in the world will take fuzzy images if it's moving all over the place. A solid copy stand is indespensible if you're serious about this.
2) Light. In short, you need lots of it, positioned correctly.
3) Glass. If you want to spend money on one thing, spend it on an excellent macro lens.
4) The camera. Buy something capable of talking to your lenses and tethering to a computer if possible.
Experience is more important than any of these but must be earned by trial and error. You can skip ahead a little by reading and using what works for others, but you have to be bad before you can be good. I highly recommend Mark's book. Taking a class at the local community college will also be useful. There are plenty of general photography concepts that will give you a solid background to start from. A good software package is also pretty important. This doesn't need to be expensive, but you need to learn how to make it work for you. You can make an OK image good and a good image great by tweaking it a little. Sharpening is useful. Correcting white balance is useful. Over-saturating or making a coin look different than it really is isn't so good. Different coins, surfaces, and compositions will be a challenge. What works on old silver won't work on modern proofs, etc. etc.
Improper white balance and lack of sharpness are the most common problems. Sharpness comes from being parallel to the coin, minimizing vibrations, fast shutter speeds (lots of light), and being meticulous with your focus. Previewing with a tethered computer is very useful to get the focus perfect.
Most of all, have fun!
My recommendation is to use Aperture Priority (A) mode, and to set ISO to 100. This lets you control the aperture manually and the camera adjusts the shutter speed to get proper exposure.
In the EOS Utility, there is a button for Live View. Always use Live View for your shots. This keeps the mirror from cycling before the shot and thus reduces vibration. On Canon cameras it also actuates EFSC, so the shutter also does not cycle before the shot, further reducing vibration. There is also a button that looks like a magnifying glass. If you push it, it gives you a live 100% size image at full resolution which is excellent for critical focusing. The Live View display from the XS is a little fuzzy (it was Canon's first generation with Live View) but the "zoom" view is crystal clear.
...Ray
Edited to add...for sharpest images on your XS, set your aperture to f/5.6 for Dimes, Cents and Nickels, and f/8 for Quarters, Halves, and Dollars
http://macrocoins.com
<< <i>My advice is to forget any notions that you might have about how to create pretty photos. Much of it is not intuitive.
For instance, the camera body is possibly the least important part of the equation.
In order of importance, I'd prioritize like this:
1) Stable platform. The most expensive camera in the world will take fuzzy images if it's moving all over the place. A solid copy stand is indespensible if you're serious about this.
2) Light. In short, you need lots of it, positioned correctly.
3) Glass. If you want to spend money on one thing, spend it on an excellent macro lens.
4) The camera. Buy something capable of talking to your lenses and tethering to a computer if possible.
Experience is more important than any of these but must be earned by trial and error. You can skip ahead a little by reading and using what works for others, but you have to be bad before you can be good. I highly recommend Mark's book. Taking a class at the local community college will also be useful. There are plenty of general photography concepts that will give you a solid background to start from. A good software package is also pretty important. This doesn't need to be expensive, but you need to learn how to make it work for you. You can make an OK image good and a good image great by tweaking it a little. Sharpening is useful. Correcting white balance is useful. Over-saturating or making a coin look different than it really is isn't so good. Different coins, surfaces, and compositions will be a challenge. What works on old silver won't work on modern proofs, etc. etc.
Improper white balance and lack of sharpness are the most common problems. Sharpness comes from being parallel to the coin, minimizing vibrations, fast shutter speeds (lots of light), and being meticulous with your focus. Previewing with a tethered computer is very useful to get the focus perfect.
Most of all, have fun! >>
<< <i>Flash does not work for most coins.
Copy stand with fixed high angle lights are a must.
But before spending any money on any equipment find Mark's book and then build up with what you have with knowledge and practice.
I have the original publishing that came out in 2008. I see the 2nd edition is just a year later. Mark notes in my copy that digital photography was just coming out and I don't see any discussion of photo editing programs such as photoshop. Did the second edition add much with regard to how to best maximize use of digital photography? Has Mark hinted that a new third edition is in the works?