PSA 9 vs. PSA 10 Unopened Wax Packs
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I am looking at my remaining 1974 OPC packs and also 2 1981 Topps Football packs that look really good trying to figure out what to send in to PSA
I noticed there are zero PSA 10 Football 1981 packs. Obviously, the differences between a 9 and a 10 on a card are sometimes very hard to define. I imagine a pack is even harder. The group rips have not been kind to me
I need to understand what to look for with these packs to determine if I have a shot at a 10. Centered wrapper, no tears, no paper lifted up off the wax on the back, etc. Can anyone enlighten me on this? Thanks
I noticed there are zero PSA 10 Football 1981 packs. Obviously, the differences between a 9 and a 10 on a card are sometimes very hard to define. I imagine a pack is even harder. The group rips have not been kind to me
I need to understand what to look for with these packs to determine if I have a shot at a 10. Centered wrapper, no tears, no paper lifted up off the wax on the back, etc. Can anyone enlighten me on this? Thanks
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<< <i>I am looking at my remaining 1974 OPC packs and also 2 1981 Topps Football packs that look really good trying to figure out what to send in to PSA
I noticed there are zero PSA 10 Football 1981 packs. Obviously, the differences between a 9 and a 10 on a card are sometimes very hard to define. I imagine a pack is even harder. The group rips have not been kind to me
I need to understand what to look for with these packs to determine if I have a shot at a 10. Centered wrapper, no tears, no paper lifted up off the wax on the back, etc. Can anyone enlighten me on this? Thanks >>
For wax, there are a few factors to consider. For a pack to grade Mint 9 or higher, there should be no rips or tears, or any wear on the corners. Seal on back should be clean and flat and wrapper should be nicely centered with original gloss and color. 9s are tough on wax because most wax packs have areas of wear, if not tears, on at least 1 or 2 corners.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
<< <i>I think for a PSA 10 pack the centering of the top card has to be 9 or better if it was graded on it's own ... though I'm sure other more knowledgeable unopened wax pack collectors will chime in on this. >>
As the Rock would say (Dpeck might like this), I dont care what you think!
GEM-MT 10: Gem Mint
A PSA Gem Mint 10 pack is a virtually perfect pack that should exhibit pristine corners and edges, which are free of any holes, tears or wear of any sort (including not having any wear to the corner folds). The seal on the reverse must be virtually undisturbed and free of any soiling or toning. The sealed folds on the reverse must also lay flush to the pack and not exhibit any lift from the seal. In addition, the pack must be "fresh" in appearance and free of any water or mildew damage to the wrapper or gum in order to qualify for this grade. There may be an allowance made for a small printing imperfection as long as the pack still shows superb eye appeal.
Note: The top card within a cello pack must be centered approximately 65/35 or better.
MINT 9: Mint
A PSA Mint 9 pack is a pack that appears to have all the attributes of a PSA Gem Mint 10 but it may exhibit one of the following flaws: a slight touch of wear on one corner (absent a hole or tear in the wrapper), minor toning or soiling to the seal on the reverse or a slight centering imperfection to the wrap. In addition, the pack must be "fresh" in appearance and free of any water or mildew damage to the wrapper or gum in order to qualify for this grade.
Note: The top card within a cello pack must be centered approximately 80-20 or better.
<< <i>
<< <i>I am looking at my remaining 1974 OPC packs and also 2 1981 Topps Football packs that look really good trying to figure out what to send in to PSA
I noticed there are zero PSA 10 Football 1981 packs. Obviously, the differences between a 9 and a 10 on a card are sometimes very hard to define. I imagine a pack is even harder. The group rips have not been kind to me
I need to understand what to look for with these packs to determine if I have a shot at a 10. Centered wrapper, no tears, no paper lifted up off the wax on the back, etc. Can anyone enlighten me on this? Thanks >>
For wax, there are a few factors to consider. For a pack to grade Mint 9 or higher, there should be no rips or tears, or any wear on the corners. Seal on back should be clean and flat and wrapper should be nicely centered with original gloss and color. 9s are tough on wax because most wax packs have areas of wear, if not tears, on at least 1 or 2 corners. >>
Yeah, getting a 9 is tough enough for was, but a 10 is a crapshoot. If you get a bunch of 9 quality packs and submit them, usually you have a shot at one of them nailing a 10. Although, you could just as easily get a bunch of 8's and a couple of 9's. Good luck with your submissions.
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And miles to go before I sleep,
And miles to go before I sleep."
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans."
Collecting:
Any unopened Baseball cello and rack packs and boxes from the 1970's and early 1980s.