Question about ripping and submitting

RavensFan

Hi,

As you know I am new to this board and have a couple questions. I am also new to the graded card industry, but in doing my research, it seems a no brainer to collect PSA only.

I am looking into putting together a graded set of 1984 Topps football as well as a 1989 Score football.

So,

1)what are my chances of ripping a box from each year and that box yielding PSA 10's? My thought is that the box(s) might yield a few, but not too many.

2)Am I better off my buying each individual card or lot(s) in PSA 10?

I don't want to sound clueless, but I am a novice to PSA graded cards. I have a few PSA 10's of each set I have picked up in the last couple of weeks.

Any advice would benefit me hugely.

Thanks,
Jon

ChiefsFan1st

89 Score will usually yeild several 10's, not so much for 84 topps. Its cheaper in the long run I think to buy already graded, but not as much fun.

Kurt

If you are doing your own 84s, I would try to get a real nice complete set or two...or three, etc and start from there (from a $$ standpoint). I want to say for more there are factory sets out there if you keep your eyes open. Boxes will run you some good money and while some may be winners (some tens), others will not be (no tens). 1989 score...the boxes will yield much better quality cards imo, so if you have the finances, that will be much easier.

CDsNuts

Just buy '89 Score 10s, you can get most for $10 and under.

mygotta

I agree with the Chief.

Mapleleaf

Any time you can buy a PSA 10 for less than $10 you will be further ahead to do so. I would save the unopened wax to finish off a set if the 10's of that year start to dry up.
Also, be aware that unopened wax sometimes isn't. I don't know if that's an issue for what you are collecting but I have bought boxes of wax from ebay that were previously opened and then resealed.

CubsKiller99

<< <i>89 Score will usually yeild several 10's, not so much for 84 topps. Its cheaper in the long run I think to buy already graded, but not as much fun. >>



+1

IMHO Score generally lends itself to self-submitted PSA 10 much better than most 80s Topps in any sport.
Also totally agree with the pricing issue -- buy the ones under $10.

But if you must be adventurous and want to get 10s, you must have a keen eye and be brutally honest about:

Centering
Edges
Corners
Surface
Back

All must be near-perfect.

RavensFan

Thank you for the great advice. You guys have responded with some prompt excellent answers.

I think I am gonna buy a box of 89 Score and rip it just to see what star power it yields. If it yields PSA 10, I will be happy.

But what I need to do is submit some cards just to get a feel for what PSA expect out of a PSA 10. Being a longtime collector, I have an eye for what a mint card is, but that doesn't mean that PSA will think it is mint.
So, I expect I will be disappointed with my first grading submission.

From reading previous posts on here, I will assume that I should buy unopened wax from Baseball Card Exchange. Is this correct?

Also, sounds like the best way to put a 1984 Topps football set together is by either individual cards or lots in PSA 10.

Thanks for you help.

Jon

MintMoondog

<< <i>Any time you can buy a PSA 10 for less than $10 you will be further ahead to do so. I would save the unopened wax to finish off a set if the 10's of that year start to dry up.
Also, be aware that unopened wax sometimes isn't. I don't know if that's an issue for what you are collecting but I have bought boxes of wax from ebay that were previously opened and then resealed. >>



Be VERY careful with waxboxes...I personally almost always buy my wax from BBCE or other large dealers, unless the waxbox is junk...I don't think rackpacks have this same problem - but I suspect that over the years astute dealers have picked up rack sequencing and scarfed the racks that might contain Superstars - however, racks have the best chance of containing 10s IMO.

Almost all my 10s have come from sellers such as 4SC or setbreaks.
I find the ripping and submitting process to be incredibly time consuming and quite frustrating. I will save that for my retirement when it is done more for enjoyment and I have time to burn.
Best wishes!

thehallmark

Pick an overproduced set and buy wax, cello, racks, factory set and vending to get a real sampling of what the condition variances are. Submit the best ones on a cheaper monthly CC special (5-6$ per card) and see how it goes with PSA. Everyone's first couple of submissions are a learning experience.

Also, if there are Ravens cards you need, shoot me a PM.

-DJ

gtrwzz

So,

1)what are my chances of ripping a box from each year and that box yielding PSA 10's? My thought is that the box(s) might yield a few, but not too many.

2)Am I better off my buying each individual card or lot(s) in PSA 10?

I don't want to sound clueless, but I am a novice to PSA graded cards. I have a few PSA 10's of each set I have picked up in the last couple of weeks.

Any advice would benefit me hugely.

Thanks,
Jon >>



We have many good opinions on the message board. I would say your chances of pulling 10's are good..I was told by several, high-end collectors to follow what I want to do with my cards. Building your own self-submitted, PSA Graded Set is much more satisfying. If you have a good eye and work at understanding the grading process, you can submit your own cards. I have found this to be much more cost effective as a Collector's Club Member. 1989 Score had good quality control, so you can submit your cards, have some fun, build your own unique set, and appreciate those sets.

lightningboy

I think your best course of action is to first do a good deal of research via the PSA pop reports and ebay.

Actually your best course of action is to be careful of which members you take advice from.

itzagoner

<< <i> I do it as a hobby >>



so does Hugh Hefner.

gtrwzz

<< <i>Thank you for the great advice. You guys have responded with some prompt excellent answers.

I think I am gonna buy a box of 89 Score and rip it just to see what star power it yields. If it yields PSA 10, I will be happy.

But what I need to do is submit some cards just to get a feel for what PSA expect out of a PSA 10. Being a longtime collector, I have an eye for what a mint card is, but that doesn't mean that PSA will think it is mint.
So, I expect I will be disappointed with my first grading submission.

From reading previous posts on here, I will assume that I should buy unopened wax from Baseball Card Exchange. Is this correct?

Also, sounds like the best way to put a 1984 Topps football set together is by either individual cards or lots in PSA 10.

Thanks for you help.

Jon >>





Mintmoondog is right.. Be very careful of any wax boxes for sell on eBay. BBCE is legit, but buyer beware with anybody else...!!

RavensFan

Thank you for the excellent advice. I have learned so much the last few days. I am overwhelmed with the knowledge everyone brings to table.

I think I am going to get a membership and submit a few just to get an idea of PSA standards.

I am going to buy a 89 score football box tomorrow. I will post a few cards that I think should be PSA 10 and get your guys input on to what they would grade. If you think the cards I pull and show you will grade PSA 10,
I will then submit.

Sincerely,
Jon

corncobb

Jon

To tell you the truth, GEM MINT 10's are the most overhyped, overpriced con going in the hobby today.
Especially on more modern issues like these.

That grade was only invented to create a lottery effect to prey on the human greed factor to intice more subbmissons by TPGers.


All 10's are really only Mint 9's on any giving day. With the inconsistant grading that goes on with these grading companies,
many who play this "fools gold game" often crack and resubmit the same cards over and over until the inconsistant grading eventual gets
them the "label" they want.

The unspoken "in house" rule is to never grade straight 10's accross the board regardless of how nice the cards.

Then there's always the other side of the inconsistant grading with cards that obviously don't belong in the "10" holder, but many misguided
label collectors are more than willing to over look the actual card in favor of their precious label.

Just check out some of the those "10's" from 4SC.

True.... Many beautiful cards are in the "10" holder, but having all "10" labels doesn't necessarily mean you have the best "Cards"


The 84 Topps Football Set is a GREAT set! Ive ripped quite a few wax boxes over the years, Including a couple more last year building my set.

While my obcession is for the perfect example of every card in the set, Im not really into paying someone for their "opinion".

I still have a couple more 84 Boxes I may yet rip open.

One other point you might want to consider, is how you will store 700 or so slabbed cards.


The best advice, and it has been said many times........ BUY the card NOT the label.


Good luck and I hope to see you post some of your beautiful cards!

jradke4

<< <i>Jon

To tell you the truth, GEM MINT 10's are the most overhyped, overpriced con going in the hobby today.
Especially on more modern issues like these.

That grade was only invented to create a lottery effect to prey on the human greed factor to intice more subbmissons by TPGers.


All 10's are really only Mint 9's on any giving day. With the inconsistant grading that goes on with these grading companies,
many who play this "fools gold game" often crack and resubmit the same cards over and over until the inconsistant grading eventual gets
them the "label" they want.

The unspoken "in house" rule is to never grade straight 10's accross the board regardless of how nice the cards.

Then there's always the other side of the inconsistant grading with cards that obviously don't belong in the "10" holder, but many misguided
label collectors are more than willing to over look the actual card in favor of their precious label.

Just check out some of the those "10's" from 4SC.

True.... Many beautiful cards are in the "10" holder, but having all "10" labels doesn't necessarily mean you have the best "Cards"


The 84 Topps Football Set is a GREAT set! Ive ripped quite a few wax boxes over the years, Including a couple more last year building my set.

While my obcession is for the perfect example of every card in the set, Im not really into paying someone for their "opinion".

I still have a couple more 84 Boxes I may yet rip open.

One other point you might want to consider, is how you will store 700 or so slabbed cards.


The best advice, and it has been said many times........ BUY the card NOT the label.


Good luck and I hope to see you post some of your beautiful cards! >>



if you read the definition of the grades that PSA has its hard to disagree with what is said above. while i love 10's i dont over spend for them, except for rare cases. for my favre master set i rarely crack and resub. i have no problems with PSA 8's in my collection either. again reading the definition by PSA an 8 might get a 9 here and there too. after all isnt that why people do the crack and resubs!!!

tsalems1

Cricket's chirping...

stown

<< <i>From reading previous posts on here, I will assume that I should buy unopened wax from Baseball Card Exchange. Is this correct? >>



An overwhelming majority believe BBCE is very trust worthy. When purchasing from others, you never know if they acquired the product via a resealing kit (ie near mint box, wrappers, and gum).

RavensFan

Wow...you collectors really have given me a lot to think about.

@corncob--you are right, I have been looking through countless PSA 10 all over ebay and I have noticed some (in my opinion) don't look like they belong in PSA 10 holders...

@jradke-- your point well taken. I am not going to pay a boatload of money on a card unless the card is a low population card. I definitely don't mind having PSA 8 in my collection. I am looking forward to trying to crack those slabs (cases) open for resubmission without damaging the card. I wonder what the trick is in doing so?

@bubblebathgirl---my first glance at the card depends on whether or not I will purchase it. If the registration on the card is off, I don't look any further. To me the centering or registration is the most important as far as eye appeal. You can have a dynamite card with 4 sharp corners, no print defects, amazing surface/gloss, but if that centering is off, then it kills it for me. I rather have a centered card and a ding in one corner as opposed to vice versa. Just my opinion.

Thanks for the great advice!!!
Jon

cpamike

<< <i>

<< <i>From reading previous posts on here, I will assume that I should buy unopened wax from Baseball Card Exchange. Is this correct? >>



An overwhelming majority believe BBCE is very trust worthy. When purchasing from others, you never know if they acquired the product via a resealing kit (ie near mint box, wrappers, and gum). >>



Barry, you are spot on as always!!!

RavensFan

<< <i>

<< <i>

<< <i>From reading previous posts on here, I will assume that I should buy unopened wax from Baseball Card Exchange. Is this correct? >>



An overwhelming majority believe BBCE is very trust worthy. When purchasing from others, you never know if they acquired the product via a resealing kit (ie near mint box, wrappers, and gum). >>



Barry, you are spot on as always!!! >>




See...You guys are awesome. I would have never known the only place to buy unopened wax would be Baseball Card Exchange until I came to these boards.

In the past week, since I signed onto these boards, I have gained so much knowledge about the grading card world as well as who the trustworthy wax dealers are.

I have a lot of respect for you guys.

Thanks,
Jon

stown

<< <i>See...You guys are awesome. I would have never known the only place to buy unopened wax would be Baseball Card Exchange until I came to these boards.

In the past week, since I signed onto these boards, I have gained so much knowledge about the grading card world as well as who the trustworthy wax dealers are.

I have a lot of respect for you guys.

Thanks,
Jon >>



Keep in mind that Steve does not have a 100% track record (no one is perfect and heck, I've made plenty of mistakes) but if he does make an error, he'll go out of his way to rectify the situation. There are other reputable wax dealers out there but when BBCE and Company X offer the same box for sale, I would pay a premium for BBCE's product without thinking twice.

One thing I have absolute confidence in; Steve would never, never, never EVER sell a re-seal kit that included the box, wrappers, and gum. He runs a business and obviously money is important to him, but ethics and respecting the hobby come first. Long story short, he's good people.

jradke4

<< <i>Wow...you collectors really have given me a lot to think about.

@corncob--you are right, I have been looking through countless PSA 10 all over ebay and I have noticed some (in my opinion) don't look like they belong in PSA 10 holders...

@jradke-- your point well taken. I am not going to pay a boatload of money on a card unless the card is a low population card. I definitely don't mind having PSA 8 in my collection. I am looking forward to trying to crack those slabs (cases) open for resubmission without damaging the card. I wonder what the trick is in doing so?

@bubblebathgirl---my first glance at the card depends on whether or not I will purchase it. If the registration on the card is off, I don't look any further. To me the centering or registration is the most important as far as eye appeal. You can have a dynamite card with 4 sharp corners, no print defects, amazing surface/gloss, but if that centering is off, then it kills it for me. I rather have a centered card and a ding in one corner as opposed to vice versa. Just my opinion.

Thanks for the great advice!!!
Jon >>



use a dremel with a heavy duty cutting well. cut off a corner then use a flat head screwdriver to pry open case. turns out bgs slabs are easier to pry open in my experience. though i never crack too many PSA's anyway.