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Crackout and Resub for late 80s Cards -- Anyone had success

I've never re-subbed a lower-value (lets say under $100) card before, but am considering
doing some for a few late 80s Topps cards. I scrutinized them before submission and can't
see that they're much different from the ones that got a better grade. Centering and surface
look good and corners sharp. Under magnification.

These are all 9s that could become 10s, am I crazy for even considering doing it and
is there any real chance of upgrading? Seems to me the difference between a 9 and 10
can sometimes be subjective and different graders mileage differs.

Cost isn't an issue -- I'm just curious more than anything.
The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was to convince the PSA 10 collector he didn't exist.

DaveB in St.Louis

Comments

  • ChiefsFan1stChiefsFan1st Posts: 845 ✭✭✭
    I would think cost would be the problem. You already have x dollars in them.
    If you crack and resub, you will probably almost double your cost. Then, when
    part of them come back 9's again??? Personally, I wouldnt, theres just too much raw available
    to take the risk. My $.02
    I dont wanna grow up, Im a Toys-R-Us kid!
  • It would be a small submission so the cost of testing my theory would not be much.

    I'm just getting the strong feeling lately that some graders are easier/tougher than others.
    The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was to convince the PSA 10 collector he didn't exist.

    DaveB in St.Louis
  • Scottiec2288Scottiec2288 Posts: 911 ✭✭✭
    I never did this but my feeling most 9s r 10s on any given day. Good luck and interested in results.
  • That's what I think too. Some of my earlier submissions that got 9s may have had centering
    a tad less than 55-45, but surface and corners were good. But when I compare some of my 9s
    that have darn near 50-50 centering, I just can't see the diff between those and the same card
    in a 10 holder. And I inspect surface really carefully.

    On any given Sunday or any given grading day?
    The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was to convince the PSA 10 collector he didn't exist.

    DaveB in St.Louis
  • hyperchipper09hyperchipper09 Posts: 1,456 ✭✭✭✭✭
    any given Sunday and grading day image. I'm like a poster above. The difference between 9's and 10's is so subjective and so close sometimes. Everyone at some point has to think, okay, I should resubmit this. I know I do myself. I've got 9's that look better than 10's myself. Any given day, depending on grader...
  • burke23burke23 Posts: 1,475 ✭✭✭
    I've had some success - could have more I'm sure but how many times do I want to spend $7-$10 grading a card that goes for less than $10 raw?
    Looking for rare Randy Moss rookies and autos, as well as '97 PMG Red Football cards for my set.
  • If the $7-10 raw card is $50-100 graded and that is not uncommon BTW -- then you have
    your answer: as often as you can afford to do it.
    The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was to convince the PSA 10 collector he didn't exist.

    DaveB in St.Louis
  • dennis07dennis07 Posts: 1,842 ✭✭✭
    If cost is not an issue then take the experiment to the extreme. Pick out 5 of your 9's that you think could be 10's and sub them over and over until you eventually
    get a 10 on all of them. Take pics and keep notes and keep us informed.
    Collecting 1970 Topps baseball
  • I'd like to do it with 5-10 cards the first time.
    The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was to convince the PSA 10 collector he didn't exist.

    DaveB in St.Louis


  • << <i>I would think cost would be the problem
    ...
    Personally, I wouldnt, theres just too much raw available
    to take the risk. My $.02 >>



    I can't make any sense of ths. It will always cost less to crack out 9 and submit it than it would to buy one raw and submit it.
  • I've cracked and resubbed several 1986 Fleer basketball cards. I've bumped several 8s to 9s, but never a 9 to a 10


  • << <i>

    << <i>I would think cost would be the problem
    ...
    Personally, I wouldnt, theres just too much raw available
    to take the risk. My $.02 >>



    I can't make any sense of ths. It will always cost less to crack out 9 and submit it than it would to buy one raw and submit it. >>



    No you've got it right -- the crackout and resub is generally going to be less expensive unless you can get a new raw card cheap.
    The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was to convince the PSA 10 collector he didn't exist.

    DaveB in St.Louis
  • BoopottsBoopotts Posts: 6,784 ✭✭


    << <i>If the $7-10 raw card is $50-100 graded and that is not uncommon BTW -- then you have
    your answer: as often as you can afford to do it. >>



    I think late '80s cards that sell for north of $50 actually are pretty uncommon. You have a couple cards in the 1988 set- Ripken and Ryan-- but I think that's about it.

  • BoopottsBoopotts Posts: 6,784 ✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>I would think cost would be the problem
    ...
    Personally, I wouldnt, theres just too much raw available
    to take the risk. My $.02 >>



    I can't make any sense of ths. It will always cost less to crack out 9 and submit it than it would to buy one raw and submit it. >>



    It makes sense because of the very real chance that the PSA 9 will come back as a lower grade, EOT, min size, etc.
  • I wouldn't call them uncommon but agree that they're not plentiful.

    In my experience the following Topps cards are going to have a good shot at
    $50 plus in PSA 10:

    1987 Rose
    1988 Ryan
    1988 Ripken
    1989 Ripken
    1990 Sandberg
    1990 Henderson
    1990 Ripken
    1990 Griffey
    1991 Jones

    If we lower the threshold to $40 then there are a LOT of cards on the list.

    So is a crackout and resub that you've already spent $10-12 for on two gradings worth $40?
    Could be for some folks and not for others. And of course if you fail the second time you've got
    $10-12 in grading on a PSA 9. Some of those cards in the list above can get you back $7-10 bucks
    in grading for a PSA 9. The Chipper Jones will get you $15 in PSA 9. But really what you're looking
    for is a PSA 9 with perfect centering, no edge damage, perfect surface, and no problems on
    the back from the list of cards above. Or else buy more junk wax and try fresh cards. Not a game
    that most would want to play I believe.










    The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was to convince the PSA 10 collector he didn't exist.

    DaveB in St.Louis
  • Just got my latest submission grades. These are the re-subs, first grade and second.

    1990 Topps Griffey 9,9
    1990 Topps Puckett 9, 10
    1991 Topps Puckett 9,9
    1991 Topps Puckett 9,9
    1991 Topps Puckett 9,8

    So one 9 did become a 10. As I said earlier in the thread -- on any given Sunday.
    The whims of the grader do play a role.

    And that is one of the reasons I don't believe in "condition rarity".

    The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was to convince the PSA 10 collector he didn't exist.

    DaveB in St.Louis
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