Crackout and Resub for late 80s Cards -- Anyone had success
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I've never re-subbed a lower-value (lets say under $100) card before, but am considering
doing some for a few late 80s Topps cards. I scrutinized them before submission and can't
see that they're much different from the ones that got a better grade. Centering and surface
look good and corners sharp. Under magnification.
These are all 9s that could become 10s, am I crazy for even considering doing it and
is there any real chance of upgrading? Seems to me the difference between a 9 and 10
can sometimes be subjective and different graders mileage differs.
Cost isn't an issue -- I'm just curious more than anything.
doing some for a few late 80s Topps cards. I scrutinized them before submission and can't
see that they're much different from the ones that got a better grade. Centering and surface
look good and corners sharp. Under magnification.
These are all 9s that could become 10s, am I crazy for even considering doing it and
is there any real chance of upgrading? Seems to me the difference between a 9 and 10
can sometimes be subjective and different graders mileage differs.
Cost isn't an issue -- I'm just curious more than anything.
The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was to convince the PSA 10 collector he didn't exist.
DaveB in St.Louis
DaveB in St.Louis
0
Comments
If you crack and resub, you will probably almost double your cost. Then, when
part of them come back 9's again??? Personally, I wouldnt, theres just too much raw available
to take the risk. My $.02
I'm just getting the strong feeling lately that some graders are easier/tougher than others.
DaveB in St.Louis
a tad less than 55-45, but surface and corners were good. But when I compare some of my 9s
that have darn near 50-50 centering, I just can't see the diff between those and the same card
in a 10 holder. And I inspect surface really carefully.
On any given Sunday or any given grading day?
DaveB in St.Louis
your answer: as often as you can afford to do it.
DaveB in St.Louis
get a 10 on all of them. Take pics and keep notes and keep us informed.
DaveB in St.Louis
<< <i>I would think cost would be the problem
...
Personally, I wouldnt, theres just too much raw available
to take the risk. My $.02 >>
I can't make any sense of ths. It will always cost less to crack out 9 and submit it than it would to buy one raw and submit it.
<< <i>
<< <i>I would think cost would be the problem
...
Personally, I wouldnt, theres just too much raw available
to take the risk. My $.02 >>
I can't make any sense of ths. It will always cost less to crack out 9 and submit it than it would to buy one raw and submit it. >>
No you've got it right -- the crackout and resub is generally going to be less expensive unless you can get a new raw card cheap.
DaveB in St.Louis
<< <i>If the $7-10 raw card is $50-100 graded and that is not uncommon BTW -- then you have
your answer: as often as you can afford to do it. >>
I think late '80s cards that sell for north of $50 actually are pretty uncommon. You have a couple cards in the 1988 set- Ripken and Ryan-- but I think that's about it.
<< <i>
<< <i>I would think cost would be the problem
...
Personally, I wouldnt, theres just too much raw available
to take the risk. My $.02 >>
I can't make any sense of ths. It will always cost less to crack out 9 and submit it than it would to buy one raw and submit it. >>
It makes sense because of the very real chance that the PSA 9 will come back as a lower grade, EOT, min size, etc.
In my experience the following Topps cards are going to have a good shot at
$50 plus in PSA 10:
1987 Rose
1988 Ryan
1988 Ripken
1989 Ripken
1990 Sandberg
1990 Henderson
1990 Ripken
1990 Griffey
1991 Jones
If we lower the threshold to $40 then there are a LOT of cards on the list.
So is a crackout and resub that you've already spent $10-12 for on two gradings worth $40?
Could be for some folks and not for others. And of course if you fail the second time you've got
$10-12 in grading on a PSA 9. Some of those cards in the list above can get you back $7-10 bucks
in grading for a PSA 9. The Chipper Jones will get you $15 in PSA 9. But really what you're looking
for is a PSA 9 with perfect centering, no edge damage, perfect surface, and no problems on
the back from the list of cards above. Or else buy more junk wax and try fresh cards. Not a game
that most would want to play I believe.
DaveB in St.Louis
1990 Topps Griffey 9,9
1990 Topps Puckett 9, 10
1991 Topps Puckett 9,9
1991 Topps Puckett 9,9
1991 Topps Puckett 9,8
So one 9 did become a 10. As I said earlier in the thread -- on any given Sunday.
The whims of the grader do play a role.
And that is one of the reasons I don't believe in "condition rarity".
DaveB in St.Louis